Metropolis

When a Chowhound user asked recently where to find the spiciest noodles in Tokyo, the resounding vote was for Mouko Tanmen Nakamoto. Sweet jaysus, those gourmand geeks were right. While dedicated spice heads should make the pilgrimage to the original shop in Kamiitabashi, which recently marked its tenth birthday and boasts a wider menu, Nakamoto also has branches in more convenient areas including Shibuya, Ikebukuro and Shinjuku. When we rolled up at the latter on a Friday night, there was a dozen-strong queue for the counter. The eponymous mouko [Mongolian] tanmen (¥770), traditional tanmen topped with a ladleful of mapo dofu, is the most popular dish on the menu. It’s also ranked a measly five on the shop’s 1-10 spice scale, so we skipped straight to nine and tried the hakkyoku (North Pole) ramen (¥800) instead. The thicker-than-average noodles come topped with bean sprouts and thin strips of pork, and the miso-based soup is colored a lurid shade of red by generous lashings of chili powder. Trust us when we say that this is one dish where you can’t afford to pause while eating: give it an inch and it’ll defeat you. Yet it’s not just about the spice. Even as our tastebuds were being obliterated, they managed to report back that it was actually pretty flavorsome. The hiyashi miso ramen (¥770), served tsukemen-style with the noodles and soup in separate dishes, takes things all the way up to ten, but it’s an experience we’ll have to save for a later date. Limited-time dishes also frequently crop up on the Nakamoto menu, though they’re of variable quality. The latest, Dante ramen (¥700), is a tie-in with the video game Dante’s Inferno; seasoned with paprika and topped with parmesan cheese and slices of tomato, it’s a pussycat compared to the other dishes on offer. Skip it and go for the hot stuff.

Shinjuku branch: B1F, 7-8-11 Nishi-Shinjuku. Tel: 03-3363-3321. Open Sun-Thu 10am-midnight, Fri-Sat 10am-2:30am. Nearest stn: Shinjuku, west exit. www.moukotanmen-nakamoto.com