Originally published on metropolis.co.jp on September 2012

Forty minutes south from Shinagawa station, this seaside town is a balm for the big-city blues. With its wide-open spaces, laid-back atmosphere, and surrounding spots, it feels far from Tokyo in every respect. Metropolis takes you on a tour.

For info on dining in Yokosuka, see Local Flavors

Naval Gazing

Without a doubt, Yokosuka’s most popular attraction is the memorial ship Mikasa (1). Permanently in dry dock facing the gigantic US Navy base across the bay, the vessel is touted as one of the world’s four great battleships. Mikasa was originally built in the Vickers shipyard in the UK, serving as the flagship of Admiral Togo Heihachiro during the Battle of the Yellow Sea on August 10, 1904, and the Battle of Tsushima on May 27, 1905. It is celebrated as a symbol of the decisive battle in the Russo-Japanese War that defeated the Eurasian empire and announced Japan’s arrival on the world stage. The interior has been mainly restored and the guns replaced, with friendly guides around to give you a commentary. ¥500, concessions available. www.kinenkan-mikasa.or.jp (Japanese only)

Mikasa Park (2), just by the ship and an easy walk from Yokosuka station, has some fun fountains to play in on hot summers’ days—though when we went there recently were no-entry cones around it. Periodically during the summer there have been musical renditions played through the speakers with the fountains spurting water in time. There is also a ship-themed climbing frame and open-air stage. For music events lined up there, check the website for details. Dogs and cycles are not permitted in the park. www.kanagawaparks.com/verny-mikasa-arasaki/event (Japanese only)

An adventure on the high seas it won’t be, but a fun excursion with an other-worldly feel Saru Shima (3) certainly is. There’s no need to bring a picnic because in high season yakiniku stalls ply their trade all day. Explore the tiny uninhabited island, admire the brickwork of the former gun emplacement and arsenal—and wonder how you can sneak back there at night to gawp at the cosplay photo shoots happening throughout the year. We’re not really sure how this particular spot, a tiny island in the middle of Tokyo Bay, became such a beacon of cosplay culture; could it be the dramatic scenery backdrop and secluded location? But if dressing up as an anime hero, taking photos of people who do, or watching the goings-on is not your thing, never fear, there are plenty of leafy nooks to get on with whatever it is that does float your boat. Suggested activities include fishing and barbecues. The boat trip over is ¥1,200 per adult, concessions apply. No dogs allowed. Check the website for current boat and barbecue deals. www.tryangle-web.co.jp (Japanese only)

To continue the nautical theme, cruise around the harbor on a boat tour of the Japanese self-defence flotilla (4) and US military docks. This popular excursion is just right to whet your appetite for an evening’s on-shore libations. ¥1,200, concessions available. www.tryangle-web.co.jp/naval-port (Japanese only)

Beyond the Sea

Not everything in Yokosuka has a naval flavor, however. There are music venues of every calibre to entertain even the most eclectic tastes. The Yokosuka Arts Theatre (5) is a concert hall with the acoustics and seating capacity for international orchestra acts, such as the Sophia National Opera House with Gianni Schicci (Nov 4, ¥6,000-¥16,000) The theater also houses a smaller chamber-music venue, the Bayside Pocket, which holds more intimate events such as early music revues and Japanese classical concerts. Recommended is the Flamenco Passion revue on November 10 (¥2,300). Check the site for listings in English. www.yokosuka-arts.or.jp/en/e_index.html

Meanwhile, trade your Pinot Grigio and violins for Pinot Noir and trumpets at Blue in Green jazz bar (6), where there are live shows every Saturday night. There is also a selection of used guitars, both acoustic and electric, for sale on the premises and proprietor Hayashi undertakes repairs. He also speaks great English. www8.ocn.ne.jp/~blugre

Or swap the wine altogether for lighter fluid and chu-hai at the smashing bar Pumpkin in Dobuita street, to accompany a diet of Japanese hardcore punk. http://members3.jcom.home.ne.jp/3354319402

But for all the entertaining locations and off-beat venues in Yokosuka, seasoned visitors will tell you it’s the small side-roads and unbeaten tracks (7) that lead you to experience the town’s real flavor. The Japanese residents of Yokosuka are well used to the sight of foreign faces, on account of the US Navy base. But step off the Dobuita Street / Honcho treadmill and with very little effort you will be rewarded with some fascinating city experiences. The tiny pedestrian lanes that vein the city are worth exploring in themselves, and contain a wealth of antique izakaya and Showa-style coffee shops.

Watery Spots

A 15-minute car journey south on Route 16 will take you to Kannonzaki. Also accessible by bus (no. 24 from the stop no. 7 in the center) this is a huge, wooded park with red brick trails through the forest that are fully wheelchair- and baby buggy-friendly. There are also two large separate adventure playgrounds (jungle gyms), one of which has a roller slide that takes a full, coccyx-jarring minute to get down. You might wish to bring your own mat. At one end of the park is an historic lighthouse open to visitors during summer. It’s a perfect place to spend a sunny day, with children or without, though there are no food facilities onsite so bring your own picnic. Parking is available at several places around the site, including the next door Yokosuka Art Museum (8), if you’re planning a two-center outing.

Designed by Riken Yamamoto, who successfully managed to create a building entertaining enough for a whole day’s visit, the Yokosuka Art Museum houses two permanent exhibits. One contains works by Japanese impressionist to contemporary artists, another the creations of Japanese Painter Taniuchi Rokuro. Temporary shows include this autumn’s “Expressionist Masters of the 20th Century” from the Strasbourg Museum of Art. The building also contains a library of art monographs and resources, and although you need to be a resident of Yokosuka to take anything out, it’s still a pleasant enough way to rest your feet for half an hour after perusing the galleries. ¥300 permanent exhibition; special exhibition rates vary. Concessions apply. www.yokosuka-moa.jp/information_english

A further five-minute drive along the coast takes you to Kannonzaki Beach. It’s ever popular with locals in the summer, as it’s a mainly sand beach with some fresh-water taps and a diving platform for young people to show off on. Be warned, it gets very crowded at weekends. There is parking and a coastal walk from there, too.

Relax your sightseeing-weary frame in the up-market bath resort of Spasso. It’s no longer supplied with water from the depths of the Japan Trench, as it was on opening five years ago, but the single-sex, open-air baths have full views onto Tokyo Bay and Chiba. Entry to the bath is ¥1,400 per adult at the weekend, with discounts for weekday admissions and children under 12. There is a comprehensive list of beauty treatments available on site from qualified therapists, with prices starting from ¥6,000 for a 20-minute facial to ¥24,000 and over for a full-body treatment. And as the spa is adjacent to the Kannonzaki Hotel and its up-market restaurant, there are lunch-and-spa offers, too. http://go-spasso.jp (Japanese)

Coast Around

South along the coast from the center but still within official city limits, Uraga (9) (Keihin Kyuko line) is famous as the place where Admiral Perry first landed his Black Ships on July 8, 1853. The citizens of Yokosuka have thanked him by putting his face underfoot on all the drain covers. There’s a beach, some salty drinking spots and a picturesque harbor to admire.

Further north along the coast, back towards Tokyo, Kurihama Flower World (10) on the Keihin Kyuko line is a fun summer’s picnic spot for child-laden parents and geeks alike. Famed as Godzilla’s initial landing spot, it’s the home of a mega adventure playground devoted to the movie monster. This huge park, with its own mini-train, cafeterias, and hot-dog and ice-cream stands, is also famous for vast carpets of poppies and cosmos (in season), plus a herb-garden. Best to go midweek when the flowers are out of bloom and the park is nearly empty. Kurihama is also the Kanagawa landing spot for the car-ferry to Chiba. Four-legged friends permitted. Free entry. www.kanagawaparks.com/kurihama-perry/kurihama (Japanese only)

For info on dining in Yokosuka, see Local Flavors