Emerald Ball
Enjoy good craic for a good cause at the Ireland Fund of Japan’s St. Paddy’s Day bash

Ireland may be nearly 10,000 kilometers from Japan, but come mid-March, Tokyoites of all shapes and sizes get their fill of Irish culture as the St. Patrick’s Day festivities roll into town. Never mind that only a few people here really know what the holiday represents: the musical performances, parades through Omotesando and Yokohama, and festively priced specials at bars around town are more than enough reason to celebrate Saint Patrick and his heritage.

By far the main event of the season, though, is the Ireland Fund of Japan’s annual Emerald Ball. Founded in 1993 as the Japanese chapter of an international organization working to promote arts, culture, education and community, the IFJ supports worthy causes throughout the country, lending financial assistance to groups such as the well-known Japan Helpline, food kitchens for the homeless, and exchange programs for Japanese and Irish high school students.

But what is a bleeding heart without a place to let loose? The IFJ takes care of that, mixing these benevolent undertakings with some classic craic at its annual Emerald Ball. Dispensing with the stiff formalities found at most charity events, this is a high-spirited gala event as only the Irish can do. Every year, an average of 200 to 300 attendees descend on the The Westin Tokyo in Yebisu for a night of music, dancing and, of course, an open bar—all for a good cause.

Organizing this evening to remember isn’t an easy task, even for two-time Emerald Ball chairman Andrew Nolan. “We’re all working as volunteers,” he says, describing the long hours needed to plan a successful event of this size and scale. “It’s a lot to organize for a small team, but in the end it pays off.” All proceeds from the event, the majority of which stem from the auction and raffle, are used to support IFJ causes. Every attendee becomes a sponsor, making for a night of socially responsible—and mostly guilt-free—fun.

There’s nothing better than having a good time while supporting a worthy cause, and that’s something the Irish know how to do best. “We take a pretty light-hearted approach to serious issues,” Nolan explains; “and there’s nothing like meeting new people and having some good banter.” And banter is certainly the focus—well, in between all the singing, dancing and drinking. Every year the event welcomes not only Japanese and Irish attendees, but revelers from a whole range of countries and industries. The Emerald Ball is also drawing larger numbers of individual attendees than it ever has in the past, proving that it’s an event to look forward to, even if you aren’t going on your company’s dollar.

Along with common folk, the Emerald Ball has also welcomed a number of big-name guests in the past: the Irish ambassador and his wife, President of Ireland Mary McAleese and Her Imperial Highness Princess Takamado have all made appearances in recent years. However, Nolan reveals that the guests that got the most attention were Miss Universe Japan 2008 Hiroko Mima and other candidates from the popular beauty pageant. “Needless to say, they were a hit. The crowds definitely wouldn’t mind having them come along again.”

While special guests aren’t typically revealed prior to the event, Nolan could confirm that there will be an Irish minister and a Japanese Winter Olympian along on the night. At any rate, the festivities alone should pique any fun-lover’s interest. The free-flowing Guinness, Murphy’s Irish Stout, wine and other beverages is, of course, attractive, but the four-course dinner plays a mighty second-fiddle, with smoked salmon, lamb rib and apple rhubarb pie to complement the beer and good times.

Irish dance performances—by a duo appropriately named “Celtic Spice”—and a live Irish band from Kansai will be adding some authentic flavor to the evening. And the night wouldn’t be complete without having a go at céilí, says Nolan, likely speaking from experience. A sort of Irish version of line dancing, céilí gives all the guests a chance to join together and celebrate in true Gaelic style. Participation is optional, but while it’s easy to prove you can drink like an Irishman, it’s something else to show you can dance like one.

The fun doesn’t stop when the Westin closes its doors, either. After the Ball, groups head to enjoy more Irish spirit(s) at places like Paddy Foley’s. “Some of us even stay long enough to enjoy a big Irish breakfast,” Nolan says with a laugh. And with the Tokyo St. Patrick’s Day parade happening the day after the Ball, there’s no time to rest before the next festivities begin.

So what is there to look forward to at this year’s Emerald Ball on March 13? “Well, we’ve got double the amount of bars as last year,” grins Nolan, so there’ll be no hanging around for a pint of “the black stuff.” And if you’re interested in picking up a bargain on the night, you can always pitch in to the raffle and auction. Items up for grabs this year include a getaway to Ireland—complete with a stay in a 5th-century castle—and a Fender guitar signed by U2.

While seats are technically available only until March 5, Nolan jokes that a few kind words and an offer to buy him a beer after the Ball could secure any interested reveler a seat after the closing date.

Tickets: ¥25,000. Saturday, Mar 13. The Westin Tokyo, Yebisu Garden Place. www.emeraldballtokyo.com

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Pubs

Bulldog
Ginza isn’t short on drinking spots, but nowhere beats Bulldog for the size or quality of the beer menu. The permanent selection of draft brews is impressive—Guinness, Kilkenny, Hoegaarden, Bass Pale Ale, Baird and a variety of American microbrews—but the bar also offers a rotation of domestic and other international craft beers. Bulldog’s bottled beer range is no afterthought, either: the 40 brands on offer span the globe and include such quality, hard-to-find labels as San Diego’s Greenfresh and Stone Brewing Co., all of which are imported in small batches to keep them tasting as fresh as possible. Around St. Patrick’s Day, Bulldog will be cutting some slack for those with a taste for fine Irish honey, offering ¥800 pints of Guinness and Kilkenny from March 6-12, and then trimming another ¥100 off the price from March 13-17. All other drinks are knocked down to happy-hour prices during both periods, and a special Irish menu will be available throughout the entire month.

2F Ginza INZ No. 1, 3-1 Ginza-Nishi, Chuo-ku. Tel: 03-3564-0996. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm and 5-11:15pm, Sat-Sun & hols 11:30am-3:30pm and 5-11:15pm. Nearest stn: Yurakucho or Ginza. http://r.gnavi.co.jp/g074200

Dubliners’
A long-time fixture on the city’s party circuit, The Dubliners’ Irish Pub empire is once again leading the way in this year’s St. Patrick’s Day festivities. Throughout March, they’ll be hosting their annual city-wide pub crawl: download a stamp card from www.dubliners.jp and you can enjoy discounted pints at every branch. The special prize for collecting stamps from all six locations this year is a “Dubliners’ Passport”—a proverbial gold card to score you happy-hour prices at any of the pubs, any time.

Festivities begin in earnest with the St. Patrick’s Day Parade in Omotesando on Sunday, March 14, when all Dubliners’ pubs will be offering all pints for ¥800 (Akasaka branch closed). Fill up your point card then, or toast St. Paddy with a marathon pub crawl on March 17, when pints of Guinness, Kilkenny and Yebisu are just ¥500 all day (stamps can be collected until March 31). Don’t forget to pick up your 2010 Dubliners’ T-shirt, and check their website for info on drink specials and live music.

Shinjuku: 2F Shinjuku Lion Hall, 3-28-9 Shinjuku. Tel: 03-3352-6606. Nearest stn: Shinjuku, east exit.

Shibuya: 2F Dogenzaka Center Bldg, 2-29-8 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5459-1736. Nearest stn: Shibuya, Hachiko exit.

Shinagawa: B1 Grand Passage, 2-16-3 Konan, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-6718-2834. Nearest stn: Shinagawa, Konan exit.

Ikebukuro: B1 Sun Gorou Bldg, 1-10-8 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku. Tel: 03-5951-3614. Nearest stn: Ikebukuro, west exit. Akasaka: B1 Sanno Park Tower, 2-11-1 Nagatacho, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-3539-3615. Nearest stn: Tameike-Sanno.

Toranomon: 1F New Toranomon Bldg, 1-1-18 Toranomon, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-5501-1536. Nearest stn: Toranomon, exit 9. Call for hours and music line-up. www.dubliners.jp

Heimat CafE
If you’re looking for a spot of relaxation before a week of drunken St. Paddy’s debauchery, revisit your carefree student days at the newly opened Heimat Café in Musashi-Koyama. This spacious hangout offers great people-watching opportunities and over 1,000 books for your perusal, with free Wi-Fi sealing the deal. Lunch is great value, with café favorites like sandwiches, pasta and deli-style sides all on the menu alongside a line-up of classic coffee creations.
A funky chill-out spot during the day, night reveals a different side to Heimat—one that’ll be best experienced during their March 6 Irish Night event. Live music from 6pm sets the mood, but the six kinds of Irish wine (¥800) and ¥600 pints of Guinness will be what make the night. Classic Irish dishes like stew, oysters and Irish breakfast will also be available, alongside dancing, exhibitions and other entertainment.

1F, 3-5-6 Meguro-Honcho, Meguro-ku. Tel: 03-6452-3770. Open daily 11am-11pm. Nearest stn: Musashi-Koyama (Tokyu Meguro line). heimatcafe@gmail.com

Paddy Foley’s
Tokyo’s first and most famous Irish pub celebrates St. Patrick’s Day this year with a full line-up of activities, including an Irish-flavored all-night dance party on Friday, March 12. From March 9-17, Paddy Foley’s will be serving a special menu of sausage and potato hotpot (¥1,000) and colcannon mash (¥1,000), along with Jameson Whiskey and special “Irish flag” shots for only ¥500 each. An Irish dance session with ceílí band Mutiny and the Paddy’s Dancers will be held from 8pm on Wednesday, March 17, and their after-parade party on Sunday, March 14 also promises to be quite the shindig, with Irish musician Cashel heading up a night of lively traditional jigs. Special beers will be available throughout the festivities for only ¥600, with live broadcasts of 6 Nations rugby matches and the Cheltenham Gold Cup promising to heighten the excitement. If you want to enjoy a true Irish St. Patrick’s Day atmosphere and celebration, come to Paddy Foley’s—often copied, never bettered!

B1 Roi Bldg, 5-5-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3497-9900. Open Mon-Wed 6pm-late, Thu-Fri 5pm-late, Sat-Sun 3pm-late. Nearest stn: Roppongi. www.paddyfoleystokyo.com

Seamus O’Hara Irish Pub
Located 15 minutes by foot from Meguro station (or a couple by cab), Seamus O’Hara offers the unique atmosphere of a little pub in the Irish countryside—right in the middle of Tokyo. The owner earned her stripes working in a pub in Ireland, so this is the real deal. Along with Guinness, the menu includes a wide variety of Irish whiskeys like Paddy, Powers and Tyrconnell, as well as Irish beers like O’Hara’s Irish Red Ale, Murphy’s and Magners Irish Cider.

March 14 and 17 are the ideal time to stroll down to Seamus for some St. Patrick’s Day fun, with two parties to celebrate the Irish holiday. Enjoy six types of Irish wine available exclusively at Seamus (¥800 per glass), or else tuck into the ¥500 pints of draft beer, offered all day long. On both days, revelers can sate their appetites with an all-day full Irish breakfast (¥1,200), including both black and white pudding. Other authentic Irish favorites will be waiting in the kitchen, like traditional Irish stew, salmon, oysters, kipper herring pizza, and the classic Irish scone. Free shots of Irish Poteen and live music promise to round things off nicely. Festivities start at noon on March 14 and 4pm on March 17—don’t be late!

B1 Matsuda Bldg, 3-12-3 Meguro, Meguro-ku. Tel: 03-3760-6179. Open Mon-Thu 6pm-2am (4pm on March 17), Fri 6pm-4:30am, Sat noon-4:30am, Sun & hols 12pm-midnight. Nearest stn: Meguro. www.seamus-ohara.com, seamus@globe.ocn.ne.jp

Tap Borrow
Frequent pub-goers know all the Shibuya watering holes: we practically live there! Opened in October last year, new establishment Tap Borrow is definitely one to mark on your map—especially if you’re bored of trawling the same old spots and fancy a new home. Located only 30 seconds from the station, this classy second-floor watering hole is a great place to grab some real pub grub for lunch, or hang up your hat and down a few beers after work.

To celebrate St. Paddy’s, Tap Borrow is offering up some unbelievable deals to get the word out about the new kid in town. Any day from March 12-16, wear something green to enjoy happy-hour prices all night. On March 17, all drinks are only ¥500, and there’ll be all-you-can-eat snacks available at the bar.
If you’ve forgotten your Irish pride, green T-shirts with the Tap Borrow logo will also be available—wear them during St. Paddy’s week for ¥500 drinks, and any night after that to enjoy happy hour prices any time. That’s a deal that can’t be beat!

2F Wada Bldg, 3-18-5 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3486-8141. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-late, Fri 5pm-4am (LO 3am) Sat 4pm-4am (LO 3am), Sun 4pm-11pm (LO 10:30pm), lunch Mon-Fri 11am-3pm. Nearest stn: Shibuya, east exit. http://r.gnavi.co.jp/e747901/

Hobgoblin
Two of Tokyo’s premier pubs, Hobgoblin Shibuya and Roppongi, will celebrate St. Patrick’s Day on Wednesday, March 17 with happy-hour prices on Irish beers and spirits all night long, accompanied by some of the finest traditional Irish cooking you’ll find this side of Dublin. To get the party started early, quench your thirst after the Omotesando parade—or medicate any hangovers from the night before—on March 14, when pints of Guinness are ¥800 and Irish whiskey is ¥500 all day. You’ll need something to soak that up, of course, and there’ll be tasty Irish dishes including roast lamb and stews available from noon. During the parade, keep your eyes peeled for Hobgoblin staff, who’ll be giving out coupons for a free taxi ride to the pubs. For a real St Patrick’s experience, look no further than the Hobgoblin.

Shibuya: 3F Ichiban Bldg, 1-3-11 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku. Open Mon-Fri 5pm-late, Sat-Sun & hols noon-late. Nearest stn: Shibuya, Hachiko exit.

Roppongi: 1F Aoba Roppongi Bldg, 3-16-33 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Open: Mon-Fri 5pm-late, Sat-Sun & hols noon-late. Nearest stn: Roppongi, exit 5. http://www.hobgoblin.jp/Home/tabid/90/language/en-GB/Default.aspx

Rogue
Kichijoji’s finest beer pub, Rogue has been a popular spot for local beer lovers since it opened in April 2008. Antique furnishings give the bar an elegant, sophisticated atmosphere, and four taps offer a copious stream of quality drafts. The pub’s location near Inokashira Park is also unbeatable, and Rogue makes a great hideaway for enjoying some brews after work or during a weekend stroll through the neighborhood. To celebrate everyone’s favorite Irish festival, Rogue will be offering up ¥600 pints of Guinness and creamy Kilkenny on March 17, together with ¥500 shots of Bushmills, Blackbush, Jameson, Baileys and other hard liquors. Soak up all that Irish goodness with some of the kitchen’s classic pub fare, which changes with the season. Even if you’re not in time to celebrate St. Paddy’s, Rogue always serves pints of the aforementioned Guinness and Kilkenny at an unbeatable, recession-friendly ¥780. Despite Rogue’s name, there are no scoundrels here: it’s just a stylish local pub with genial staff, good grub and great beers.

1-11-6 Kichijoji-Minami-cho, Musashino-shi. Tel: 0422-42-0654. Open Tue-Fri 5pm-1am, Sat 3pm-1am, Sun 3pm-midnight, closed Tue. Nearest stn: Kichijoji, Koen exit. www.beerpub-rogue.com

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Northern Ireland
The rugged coastline makes for a stunning road trip
By Chris AJ Coulter

Once the stomping grounds of St. Patrick himself, the coast of Northern Ireland has captivated and beguiled visitors for centuries. One of the best ways to see it is by taking the A2 road, which meanders for 385 km, starting near Newry in the south and ending outside Londonderry, at the border with the Republic of Ireland. Rather than try to take it all in, it’s best to focus on one section of the route—so with driving gloves on, fuzzy dice hung and roof lowered, we set off from near Ballycastle, halfway along the trail.

First, it’s a quick scoot west for a heart-pounding traipse across the swaying Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. Originally built for local fishermen to check their nets, the bridge spans a 20m wide, 23m deep chasm from the cliffs to a rocky outcrop in the sea, and can now be braved by anyone game enough to try. Those who make the crossing will be rewarded with views across the Irish Sea to Scotland and along the coastal route ahead, where sheer cliff faces drop into the boiling waves.

No trip to NI would be complete without taking in the awesome majesty of the Giant’s Causeway. Thousands of uniformly polygonal columns of basalt—formed 60 million years ago by rapidly cooling lava—stand side by side, covering a vast area that reaches out into the yonder before being engulfed by the ocean. Tour guides will happily regale you with the story of how the causeway was made by a local giant named Fionn McCool, who built it so he could cross over to Scotland and do battle with his rival Benandonner. Sadly for old Fionn, his opponent turned out to be considerably larger than anticipated, and he scarpered home, disguising himself as his own child when he got there. When Benandonner arrived, Fionn’s wife introduced him to their ‘baby son,’ and, terrified of what the father must be like judging from the size of the infant, he ran back to the safety of Scotland, tearing up the causeway as he went. Or so they say.

On next to Bushmills, and a visit to the world’s oldest licensed whiskey distillery. The gleaming copper stills used to distill Ireland’s favorite tipple for the past 400 years stand proudly at the heart of this magnificent brick building. Sleep off the excesses of the guided tour at the nearby Bushmills Inn Hotel, a rustic country inn that has been standing for nigh-on 200 years itself. Old Bushmills Distillery draws its water from the neighboring Bush River, one of the main salmon fishing spots in the region, so be sure to sample the local chowder or baked salmon dishes while you’re here too.

The final leg of our tour takes in the crumbling ruins of the medieval Dunluce Castle, perched precariously on the cliff’s edge, and moves on further past the enormous white sand dunes on Portrush’s East Strand.

We finished at Castlerock and the stunning Mussenden Temple, a former library built in 1785 by the Bishop of Derry, who clearly had a keen sense of drama. The circular building clings to the very edge of the cliff, with a vertiginous drop below. Take a peek out of each of the three compass point windows for some breathtaking views: east over Castlerock Bay and the waves crashing into the Barr Mouth, north into the ocean, with Scotland visible on the horizon on clear days, and west over the golden sands of Downhill Beach and on to Donegal in the distance.

Trip Tips
There are no direct flights from Tokyo to Belfast, and most travelers go via London Heathrow. Numerous car rental agencies have vehicles available for pick-up at Belfast International Airport, including Hertz (www.hertz.co.uk), Europcar (www.europcar.co.uk) and National (www.nationalcar.co.uk). The Bushmills Inn Hotel (www.bushmillsinn.com) is more popular than ever after recently receiving a four-star rating by the Northern Ireland Tourist Board, so be sure to reserve well in advance; twin/double rooms start at £138 (¥19,500). For more information, see www.discovernorthernireland.com