interview
*mouseover to
enlarge images
Fumiko Hayashi
The mayor of Yokohama has her eye on the future
“I’m a mayor, not a politician,” says Fumiko Hayashi, who in 2009 became the first female to lead Japan’s most internationally minded city. The 63-year-old Hayashi is certainly up to the challenge—in her groundbreaking career, she’s served as president of such illustrious companies as Daiei and BMW Japan, and in 2006, Forbes named her on its 39th Most Powerful Women in the World list. Hayashi recently sat down with Metropolis to talk about her vision for the city, as well as its unique appeal to foreign visitors, residents and businesses.
People say that Yokohama City is a foreigner-friendly city. In what ways do you feel this is true?
There are about 80,000 foreigners living in Yokohama now: about 2 percent of the city’s total population, or roughly 1 in 50 people. They come from over 150 countries. To coincide with the 150th anniversary of Yokohama’s port opening last year, we established a strategy for the further internationalization of the city, which is at the forefront of a “second opening” of the country. We’re working to make Yokohama a cosmopolitan city that people want to live in, and to visit.
Yokohama is about 20 minutes by car from Haneda Airport, and every shinkansen train stops there. Office space is cheaper than in Tokyo. It wouldn’t be an overstatement to say that Yokohama is on a par with Tokyo as a business center. The business incentives and facilities for expat employees, including international schools, also make it an attractive option for companies. Yokohama is where Japan opened itself to the world, and it’s historically acted as a window on foreign culture—be it things, people or technology—as well as provided the first port of entry for many foreign visitors. With its entrepreneurial spirit, the city is the headquarters of about 190 foreign firms—second only to Tokyo.
Which current and future projects for Yokohama are particularly dear to your heart?
One of my goals for Yokohama is to make life easier for people raising children here. That’s why a main item in the budget for 2010 is childcare. At the moment, the number of children who can’t get places in childcare facilities is rising. There are other related issues that aren’t being dealt with adequately, either, including school absenteeism, a lack of hospital maternity wards, providing for children with special needs, and so on. It’s vital that these problems be addressed as soon as possible.
That aside, I also have a particular interest in safeguarding the livelihoods of city residents. The economy plays a key part in this, and I want to take advantage of the opening of Haneda Airport to more international flights from October, along with the APEC summit in November. Both of these promise to provide good publicity for Yokohama, and of course to stimulate the local economy.
City development requires both short- and long-term planning perspectives. For example, Minato Mirai 21, which can be considered central to Yokohama’s economy, was planned over the incumbencies of five different mayors. Our current project, which was unveiled during the 150th anniversary celebrations last year, is to develop the “inner harbor” area of the city center.
I have a grand dream of the kind of city I want to see established in time for the 200th anniversary: I envisage Yokohama 50 years from now as being based around the concept of a “seaside city.” Fifty years might seem like a long period of time, but as with the development of the Minato Mirai area, it’s important to have a grand design for the future. The “inner harbor” area stretches from Yokohama Bay Bridge to the shore, including Yokohama station, Minato Mirai 21 and Yamashita—areas that have contributed to Yokohama’s development, what you might call the “roots” of the city. This area is a vital part of the 200-year grand design for Yokohama, and provides a view of things to come.
Some people say that Yokohama’s old charm is disappearing as a result of modernization…
I don’t think you can paint it in purely negative terms, that the city is losing its individuality, that everywhere looks the same. For example, Minato Mirai 21 was conceived based on a deep understanding of Yokohama’s identity, and is now a key part of the city brand. We have a “creative city” plan that will draw on Yokohama’s history and cultural heritage as part of efforts to promote business and develop the city. Some bayside storage facilities were given a new lease of life as the Red Brick Warehouse complex, and we’ll be developing Yokohama in a similar spirit—a way that respects history and preserves the city’s character. Haphazard urban development is what destroys a city’s personality, but if we have a grand design and cooperate with local residents and businesses, Yokohama’s can be preserved. Central Yokohama can be divided up into three zones: the area around Yokohama station, the seafront of Minato Mirai 21, and the historic downtown of Kannai and Kangai. If we take all of these zones into account when drawing up plans, we can protect Yokohama’s charm.
What do you like to do during your time off?
Bird watching, walking, seeing rakugo and traditional art. But especially bird watching.
Yokohama basics
Population: 3,672,985 (as of April 2010)
Total Area: 434.98km2 (168.9mi2)
Incorporated: April 1, 1889
Access: Yokohama station can be accessed from Shinagawa via the JR Tokaido, JR Yokosuka and JR Keihin-Tohoku lines, as well as the Keihin Kyuko line. From Shibuya, take the JR Shonan Shinjuku line or the Tokyu Toyoko line. Other major jumping-off points for exploring the city are Sakuragicho (JR Keihin-Tohoku line) and Minato Mirai (Minatomirai line).
Anpanman Children’s Museum & Mall
One of Japan’s most enduring kids’ characters, Anpanman has been around since 1973, but this character never gets stale. Anpanman is a strong, kind champion of justice whose face is made of anpan bread. And in Yokohama’s Minato Mirai district, the hero of the long-running series of books and anime even has his own theme park: Anpanman Children’s Museum & Mall.
The main pleasure for parents is the healthy foods available. At Jam-Ojisan’s bakery, the little tykes can enjoy a freshly baked anpan (a sweet bun filled with red bean paste) bearing the likeness of the whole wheat hero and other characters from the series (there are nearly 2,000, a feat that has landed Anpanman a Guinness World Record). There’s also a restaurant and stalls selling original snacks, fresh juice and goods.
But more exciting for the kids is the chance to meet Anpanman himself: the character appears onstage at the Takashi Yanase Theater every day, and you might run into him and his friends while wandering around the shopping mall. Best of all, a visit to the Anpanman Children’s Museum & Mall is a fun day for the family!
■ 4-3-1 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-227-8855. Museum open daily 10am-6pm (entrance until 5pm); shopping mall daily 10am-7pm; Anpanman Kitchen daily 10am-8pm (opening hours vary by the season; ask for details). Nearest stn: Shin-Takashima (exit 2). www.yokohama-anpanman.jp
Excel Air Service Inc.
So you’ve seen Yokohama by bus and boat. Now how about a bird’s-eye view? Enjoy the night vistas of this fantastic city from above with a helicopter cruise courtesy of Excel Air Service’s “Yokohama Sky Walking.” As you approach the heliport in Minato Mirai, the roar of the chopper will set your pulse racing.
During the 10-minute Bay-Light Course, which soars to an altitude of 600 meters, the pilot introduces the sights as you fly by, with explanations in English (make sure to request this when placing your reservation). Other routes include a 5-minute Twilight Course—which starts at sunset and enables you to gaze at the town as it twinkles in the dusk—and a 20-minute Private Course, in which you can reserve the entire whirlybird for you and your group. And since the view changes with the seasons, you’ll likely be flying back for more.
■ 1-7 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku, Yokohama. Tel:. 047-380-5555. Open Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat-Sun 10am-5pm. Nearest stn: Minatomirai. www.excel-air.com/english/cruising
Kanagawa Prefectural Tourist Association
As the nearest sightseeing area to Tokyo, Kanagawa Prefecture offers a fantastic variety of historical, cultural and natural sightseeing spots that lure visitors throughout the year. The Kanagawa Prefectural Tourist Association Information Center and its website can help you make the most of your trip, with info on must-see attractions, popular sightseeing courses, local festivals and lots more. There’s even a photo library, weather information, e-pamphlets, an email newsletter and other services.
The port city of Yokohama represents the foundation of Japan’s era of cultural enlightenment that began in the 19th century. Hotspots around town include the historic Yamate neighborhood, bustling Chinatown, and the cosmopolitan Minato Mirai waterfront. Venture outside of Yokohama and you’ll discover the ancient political and religious centers of Kamakura and Odawara, Shonan Beach (including lovely Enoshima island), spectacular marine attractions at the Miura Peninsula, and the healing qualities of famous onsen in Hakone and Yugawara. Those are the basics—but a visit to the KPTA will help you fill in the blanks and plan the perfect trip to Kanagawa.
■ 1F Silk Center, 1 Yamashita-cho, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-681-0007. Admission: free. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a holiday). Nearest stn. Nihon-Odori. http://www.kanagawa-kankou.or.jp/index-e.html
Landmark Tower
Sky Garden
Not only is Minato Mirai’s Landmark Tower the tallest skyscraper in Japan (296 meters), it also boasts the country’s highest observatory: the Sky Garden. Situated on the tower’s 69th floor—which you reach in Japan’s fastest elevator, natch—it’s the size of five tennis courts, and offers a 360-degree panorama that stretches up to 80km into the distance. Weather permitting, you’ll be able to pick out the Metropolitan Government building in Shinjuku, Izu-Oshima island and even imposing Mount Fuji.
Landmark Tower Sky Garden is also one for the lovebirds—and not just because of the view. Since 2008, the Lovers Project has allowed besotted couples to write romantic messages, which become part of an installation before being whisked off to the Sengen Taisha temple at Mount Fuji. Sweethearts on their first date are advised to come at night, when the mood is set by cocktails and snacks at the Sky Café.
Metropolis readers can enjoy a special offer on entry to the Sky Garden: simply take a copy of this page, and you and three friends will get a discount of ¥300 (adults) or ¥200 (all others).
■ 2-2-1-1 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-222-5030. Open Sun-Fri 10am-9pm, Sat and during summer vacation 10am-10pm (last admission 30 min before closing time, or sometimes earlier). Golden Week schedule: April 29-30 10am-10pm, May 1-5 9:30am-10pm. Entry fee: ¥1,000 (adults), ¥800 (high school students, over-65s), ¥500 (elementary and junior high school students), ¥200 (younger children). http://www.yokohama-landmark.jp/skygarden/en/index.html
Sankeien
Kyoto is crammed with temples and shrines and Nikko is a must-see for history buffs, but there’s a dazzling treasure trove even closer to Tokyo. Sankeien was originally the pleasure garden of Meiji Era silk merchant Tomitaro Hara. In the post-Reconstruction years, when Japanese traditions were falling out of fashion, Hara rescued teahouses, pagodas, temple halls and lords’ villas from all over Japan, hauling them back to the 175,000 square-meter family estate in Yokohama.
In 1906, Hara decided to open much of the grounds to the public, and in 1958 visitors were invited onto the rest of the estate. After strolling around the traditional Japanese-style garden, check out the rebuilt Main Hall of Kyoto’s Tomyoji temple, as well as its three-story pagoda; there’s also a carp pond, water lily pond, lotus pond and a Chinese plum garden.
In the museum, the accomplishments of garden founder Sankei Hara are introduced through exhibits and images along with associated works of art. There’s also a museum shop and a tea area: between 10am and 4pm, ¥400 gets you into a tea ceremony where you can enjoy a cup of matcha and some Japanese confectionery.
■ 58-1 Honmoku-Sannotani, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-621-0634. Open 9am-5pm (last entry 4:30pm). Admission: ¥500 (adults), ¥200 (children). Nearest stn: Negishi (ride No.58, 99 or 101 bus from the station to Honmoku). www.sankeien.or.jp
Yokohama Bayside Line
For the ultimate road’s-eye view of Yokohama, you can’t beat the Bayside Line. This comfortable red bus with large windows tours around the city on four set routes: the One-Day Course, Morning Course, Weekday Morning Course and Weekend Evening Course. Each takes in the key sights and make several stops along the way. Depending on which course you pick, your tour might include Sankeien Garden, the Red Brick Warehouse, the Yokohama Foreigners’ Cemetery, shopping tours, Chinatown or the Hotel New Grand, whose past patrons include General MacArthur and Charlie Chaplin. And lots more.
With onboard videos illustrating key tourist spots in English, Chinese and Korean, you’re sure to get the most out of the experience. The ticket price includes all meals and entrance fees, and you can hop on the Yokohama Bayside Line at major hotels in the Yamashita and Minato Mirai areas—the Weekend Evening Course even includes a cruise of Yokohama Bay. Check out the options on the Bayside Line’s website, and let them do the rest.
■ Yokohama station east exit information center (Sogo B1F). Tel: 045-465-2077. Open Mon-Sat 8am-7pm, Sun & hols 8am-6pm. Tickets ¥4,900-¥6,500 (adults), ¥2,500-¥4,050 (children). Reservations can be made online at http://www.yokohama-bus.jp/baysideline/en/1day.html
Yokohama Convention & Visitors Bureau
Yokohama has always been an exciting tourist destination, but the recent addition of two new attractions has made the city more appealing than ever.
In the picturesque waterfront area, the four-year-old Yokohama Bay Quarter shopping mall has unveiled an Annex that’s designed with young parents in mind. Its 4,100m2 shopping space is home to family-friendly stores and cafés. An entire floor is devoted to baby goods, another for fashion, and two more of art and craft goods.
Big-name shops include Dadway, a Yokohama-born brand specializing in toys (as well as accessories that the old man will appreciate); a flagship store for Maclaren, the renowned buggy maker; and Japan’s first branch of Natures Purest, a British brand offering natural baby products.
The complex also boasts a two-story branch of craft and hobby megastore Yuzawaya. For parents in Yokohama or Tokyo, this is a new shopping Mecca. For the rest of you, there are still 75 stores next door in the main building.
Also in the Yokohama waterfront area, TOC Minato Mirai is a newly opened 19-story complex that houses a luxury hotel, movie theater, fitness center and 130 shops and restaurants.
The shopping center, named Colette · Mare, is dominated by stores for young, fashion-conscious men and women. In addition to shops selling stylish new Japanese brands, visitors can check out the first Japanese store opened by American footwear brand Rockport. The 22 eateries offer all kinds of casual dining, from okonomiyaki pancakes to soba noodles to cakes to pub grub. Directly above the shopping center is a 13-screen cinema and a luxurious two-story fitness center. Crowning the complex is the New Otani Inn Yokohama, a 240-room addition to the renowned Japanese hotel chain.
■ Yokohama Bay Quarter Annex is walking distance from Yokohama station (Northeast exit). TOC Minato Mirai and Colette · Mare are located directly in front of Sakuragicho station. http://www.welcome.city.yokohama.jp/eng/tourism/
Yokohama Doll Museum
If dolls really do come to life at night (as countless films would have us believe), the Yokohama Doll Museum and its 14,000 figurines would qualify as a bustling city. And a cosmopolitan one at that, with inhabitants from 141 countries around the world.
Japan’s love for dolls stretches back to ancient times, and doll-making is recognized as an art form in its own right. The Yokohama Doll Museum offers an engaging insight into traditional Japanese culture, with a permanent exhibit that features 8,000 Japanese figurines, including many crafted by living national treasures. Event exhibitions held throughout the year offer the chance to see unique hina dolls or popular kids’ characters, and since this year’s themes include “international exchange,” you might well spot something from your own country. The museum’s Akai Kutsu theater hosts piano concerts and other events, while a brand new on-site café brews espresso imported directly from Seattle. And there’s even a shop—so why not start populating a doll city of your own?
■ 18 Yamashita-cho, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-671-9361. Museum and shops open daily 10am-6:30pm (last admission 6pm). Closed third Thu every month except May, July, Aug and Dec. Café open Tue-Sun 11am-7pm, closed Mon. Entry: ¥500 (adults), ¥150 (children), ¥400/¥100 (groups). (Note: Entrance fee may change during special exhibitions.) Nearest stn: Motomachi-Chukagai, exit 4. http://www.museum.or.jp/yokohama-doll-museum/
Zoorasia
First-time visitors to Zoorasia are likely to be astounded— instead of a regular zoo, this sprawling complex is more like a cross between a theme park and a new-style safari adventure. Animals from all over the world are presented in seven themed habitats—the Asian tropical forest, subarctic zone, Oceania grassland, and so on—along with plants and other details that lend an authentic feel, like statues, tombs and ships. Opened in 1999, Zoorasia seeks to recreate the harmony of nature within its walls.
By separating environments into separate zones, Zoorasia immerses visitors in the natural habitats of 70 different creatures, from okapis and Indian lions to Sumatran tigers and rare breeds of monkey. Many of the animals are endangered species, and Zoorasia works on research to protect, breed and preserve them. Other attractions include the Elephant Live show, where two of the bulksome beasts play soccer with the staff. Visitors can even watch feedings. And to catch a glimpse of the nocturnal inhabitants at their most active, don’t miss Night Zoorasia, held every weekend in August—just one of the park’s many special summer events.
■ 1175-1 Kamishirane-cho, Asahi-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-959-1000 (group reservations 045-959-1919). Open Wed-Mon 9:30am-4:30pm (last admission 4pm), closed Tue (except national holidays) and Dec 29-Jan 1. Nearest stn: Tsurugamine, Mitsukyo, Nakayama (direct buses run from each station). www.zoorasia.org
omiyage
Local Flavor
These classic Yokohama specialties offer a true taste of the city
Kikuya rum balls
Established in 1924, Kikuya is a confectioner and tearoom on the historic Motomachi Shopping Street that offers a long menu of tasty treats. The selection of cakes and cookies are all well and good, but what keeps us coming back is the rum balls. These dense sponge orbs are soaked in booze and crammed with raisins, then coated in chocolate. Pick them up for ¥230 each, or ¥500 for a smart wrapped gift box.
■ 2-86 Motomachi, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-641-0545. Open daily 10am-7:45pm, closed every third Wed. Nearest stn: Motomachi-Chukagai or Ishikawacho. http://kiku-ya.jp See Map 16
Isetatsu paper goods
This small craftwork chain, founded in Tokyo’s Yanaka district in 1864, stocks a selection of gorgeous washi and chiyogami (stencilled paper) items, from fans to fish and packages to postcards. Hand-printed goods can run up to ¥10,000, but machine-printed versions can be had for as little as ¥200. Isetatsu also produces handkerchiefs featuring its chiyogami motifs—the perfect gift for the chronic hay fever-suffering handicrafts buff in your life.
■ 184 Yamatecho, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-623-2199. Open daily 10am-6pm. Nearest stn: Motomachi-Chukagai. http://meturl.com/isetatsu (Tokyo branch) See Map 19
Ariake No Harbour cakes
Originally created in 1954 but only christened in 1966, the Ariake No Harbour range of cakes is a Yokohama staple. The flagship Yokohama Harbour cake is filled with dense marron jam, while the Kurofune (“black ship”) is a bitter cocoa version. Each is designed to look like a ship, albeit a heavily traumatised one, and sold individually for ¥157 or in packs of six, 12 or 16. Clamber aboard at shops including Takashimaya and tourist hangouts such as the Red Brick Warehouse, or visit the dedicated shop/cafe in the Nihon Odori area.
■ Harbour’s Moon: 1F City Tower Yokohama, 36 Nihon Odori, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 0120-005-436. Open daily 10am-8pm. Nearest stn: Kannai or Nihon Odori. www.harboursmoon.com See Map 17
Kiyoken dumplings
Yokohama’s 102-year-old dim-sum maker Kiyoken is commonly regarded as having introduced shumai dumplings to Japan; its ground pork and scallop dumplings are outrageously popular to this day, and can be found at kiosks in major train stations and shopping centers throughout Kanto and beyond. Look out for the distinctive red, yellow and white logo at kiosks in major train stations, and pick up a pack of six shumai (¥600), a bento (from ¥550) or a variety of gift sets from ¥1,050.
■ www.kiyoken.com
Izuhei inarizushi
A Bashamichi institution since 1839, Izuhei offers a spin on the humble inarizushi (sushi rice wrapped in deep-fried tofu) that has become a local legend. Even when sliced in half, these long, wide treats are larger than the average inarizushi, and the rice is prepared with particularly pungent vinegar that is sharp but sweet. After the original Izuhei was destroyed in the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake, the shop was rebuilt, and today stands as a welcome taste of old-school Yokohama.
■ 5-68 Onoe-cho, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-681-1514. Open daily 10am-8pm. Nearest stn: Kannai. http://meturl.com/izuhei See Map 18
Intercontinetal Hotel chocolates
With its distinctive sail shape, the Intercontinental Hotel Yokohama Grand is one of the city’s most recognizable buildings. And with the imaginative Shape Chocolates, its likeness is replicated in confectionery form. The selection of milk and dark chocolates are sold in the lobby in packs of six (¥1,365) and 12 (¥2,625). Since 1991, these treats have proven a popular souvenir— regardless of whether or not your budget stretches to a night in the hotel itself.
■ 1-1-1 Minato Mirai, Yokohama. Tel: 045-223-2222. Nearest stn: Minatomirai. http://meturl.com/sailchoco See Map 20
Family friendly
From undersea beasts to deep-space rockets, Yokohama has something for everyone
Cosmo World
With three roller coasters and one of the world’s largest Ferris wheels, Cosmo World amusement park is a fantastic spot for families. Tots will love the classic merry-go-round, miniature shinkansen and rides featuring Doraemon and Anpanman; other attractions include a log flume, haunted house, laser-gun-mounted rides, carnival stands, arcade games and a couple of 3D movies based on Yatterman and Sonic The Hedgehog. Entry is free, with a charge for each attraction. Just remember to eat a light lunch.
■ 2-8-1 Shinko, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-641-6591. Open Mon-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat-Sun & hols 11am-10pm. Nearest stn: Minatomirai, Sakuragicho. http://senyo.co.jp/cosmo See Map 21
Mitsubishi Minatomirai Industrial Museum
A trip to the Mitsubishi Minatomirai Industrial Museum lets visitors see everyday objects in startling new ways. The museum is split into themed zones that detail the manufacturing of prosaic items like cars and newspapers, as well as grander devices used for space travel and environmental science. A full schedule of events includes craft workshops and movie screenings, and elementary and junior high students can become members of the Mirai Club, which offers access to special lectures and tours. In the Trial Square interactive zone, visitors can try their hand at designing aircraft and submarines, or fly over a virtual Yokohama in a helicopter simulator.
■ 3-3-1 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku. Tel: 045-200-7351. Open Tue-Sun 10am-5pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a holiday). Entry ¥300 (adults), ¥200 (junior and senior high-school students), ¥100 (elementary school students, groups of 10 or more), free (seniors). Nearest stn: Minatomirai or Sakuragicho. www.mhi.co.jp/en/museum See Map 22
Nogeyama Zoo
Founded in 1951, Nogeyama Zoo is a city-owned park that’s home to over 1,400 animals of 100 different species. In addition to the usual lions and tigers and bears (oh my!), it features giant turtles, red pandas and a petting zoo, where kids can fondle chicks, mice and guinea pigs. And for all you lovebirds, the zoo even has lovebirds. Since the park is relatively small and uncongested, you can get up close with the beasties. A wheelchair route makes the zoo accessible to all, as indeed does the totally free admission.
■ 63-10 Oimatsu-cho, Nishi-ku. Tel: 045-231-1696. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-4:30pm, closed Mon (Tue if Mon is a holiday). Nearest stn: Hinode-cho (Keikyu line) or Sakuragicho. www.nogeyama-zoo.org See Map 23
Yokohama Hakkeijima
Sea Paradise
Occupying a whopping 24 hectares of reclaimed land at the tip of Yokohama Bay, Sea Paradise is Japan’s fourth-busiest amusement park. The three-story aquarium bustles with more than 100,000 sea creatures, and an undersea viewing tunnel is home to both tropical and freshwater fish. There’s also a 107m vertical-drop ride called Blue Fall and a surf coaster that swings out over the water, plus shops and lovely botanical gardens. Entry is free, with each attraction charged individually and various combination passes available.
■ Hakkeijima, Kanazawa-ku. Tel: 045-788-8888. Opening hours vary for each attraction and season—check online for info. Nearest stn: Hakkeijima. http://www.seaparadise.co.jp/english/
health & beauty
Akai Medical Clinic
Not for nothing is Akai Medical Clinic one of Tokyo’s most popular places for cosmetic treatment. Harvard Medical School and Massachusetts General Hospital trained Dr. Hidemi Akai and certified skin specialist Dr. Keiko Akai consistently employ the most state-of-the-art equipment and techniques to offer a range and quality of service that you simply won’t find anywhere else in town.
The clinic recently added eCO2 fractional laser treatment to its already impressive lineup of options. This skin ablation laser method can be used to treat the effects of aging and sun damage on skin, as well as scars, large pores and stretch marks—and, for a limited time, the treatment is being discounted by 20 percent. Unlike traditional CO2 laser treatment, the procedure causes minimal discomfort and involves quick recovery times.
If lasers aren’t your thing, Akai is still the only place in Japan with an EndyMed PRO machine, a high-tech radio frequency device that provides non-ablative skin tightening, body tightening, body contouring and cellulite treatment.
Other popular options include Rhytec Portrait Plasma Skin Rejuvenation, which uses thermal energy to regenerate collagen and elastin. The treatment, available in both ablative and non-ablative form, is effective against drooping and sagging skin, wrinkles and acne scars, and is currently discounted by 20 percent. Alternatively, try Affirm and Affirm Muliplex fractional Nd:YAG laser treatment, which is good for tightening skin, reducing wrinkles and pores, improving skin complexion and healing sun-damaged skin.
We all want to look our best this spring, and Akai Medical Clinic has a wealth of special packages suitable for every budget and need. They’re currently offering great prices on underarm-hair removal (¥4,200 for the first treatment, or ¥25,000 for six treatments over one year), while hair transplants are going for just ¥500 per single graft. You can also enjoy discounts on Polaris and Fotofacial RF treatments, for sun-damaged skin, wrinkle reduction, rosacea, freckles and skin tightening. These are priced at ¥15,750 for the first treatment, with three- and five-session packages at ¥63,000 and ¥84,000.
If you’re already thinking about how you’re going to look on the beach this summer, ask about Dr. Akai’s non-surgical body contouring and cellulite treatment, which combines EndyMed, VelaSmooth and a professional massage for the ultimate in slimming.
Akai Medical Clinic is now offering Botox treatments for the bargain price of ¥20,000 per area, while hyarulonic acid treatment is also going cheap: just ¥40,000 for laugh lines, ¥30,000 for lip augmentation and ¥52,500 for tear troughs. Remove sun-damaged skin, acne scars and blotches with a course of full-facial chemical peeling and micro-dermabrasion therapy, currently just ¥15,750 for one full-facial session including vitamin treatment, and package prices for three or six sessions at ¥42,000 or ¥84,000.
You can also enjoy special offers on treatments including eyelid surgery, nasal reshaping, facelifts, breast surgery (augmentation, lift and reduction) and liposuction; and 30 percent off minimal invasive surgery (thread lift, fat injection, PRP injection and fat stem cell injection). Akai Medical Clinic also offers Latisse, the first and only FDA-approved prescription treatment for fuller, longer eyelash growth.
If all those choices sounds a bit overwhelming, don’t despair: the doctors can provide detailed consultations to help you choose the option that’s best for you.
Akai Clinic’s Yokohama branch uses the same state-of-the-art equipment as its Omotesando clinic, and also specializes in skin treatments like fixing acne, acne scars and sun damage.
■ Katsukou Building 4F, 1-2-8 Horai-cho, Naka-ku. Nearest stn: Kannai. Tel: 045-252-9455. Consultation hours Tue-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat-Mon 11am-5pm. Email amc-skincare@akaiclinic.com. http://www.akaiclinic.com/en/index.html. See website for details on the Omotesando clinic.
Afrodita
With a clientele that includes models, celebrities, creative-industry types and plenty of foreigners from all over Japan, Afrodita is Yokohama’s ultimate hair salon. The shop is the brainchild of Yoshiko Morimoto, a licensed stylist and cosmetologist who cut her teeth in London, New York and the fashionable salons of Beverly Hills and Hollywood before opening the salon in 2001. She and her staff employ the latest styling techniques, including a dry-cut method known as de pinceau (literally “like a paintbrush”), in which locks of hair are cut in dry bunches, creating styles better suited to the shape of your head.
Not content to rest on her laurels, Morimoto continues to sharpen her professional edge and take her hair coloring and styling talent to the next level at the Redken Exchange in New York City, the hair industry’s leading resource for higher learning. As a certified hair-color specialist, she chooses her tools wisely, employing top-grade dyes and hair products imported from the US. Afrodita creates styles that can only be described as dazzling. And with a full consultation given before the scissors come out, you can be sure the dazzling style in question is the one you actually want. The salon’s other specialties include aftercare, perms, extensions and hair restoration treatments—in short, everything you need to prime yourself for a special occasion or to simply feel pampered.
Morimoto and her staff believe that the best way to give customers the perfect cut or color is by understanding individual needs—which is why they schedule consultations to learn more about their clientele’s desired appearance. Afrodita is also looking for a hair model!
■ 2-108-1 Sengencho, Nishi-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-311-0139. Open Wed-Sun 10am-7pm, closed Mon-Tue. Nearest stn: Yokohama, west exit. www.afrodita.jp
K-cube/Aveda Shop & Spa
Featuring Aveda’s range of organic products—made from pure flower and plant extracts—beauty salon K-cube offers a range of treatments to refresh and invigorate. As you browse the hair, body and aromatherapy products in the first-floor shop while sipping a cup of comforting (and complimentary) herbal tea, why not let the staff’s expert hands indulge you in the spa room with a facial or body treatment?
Originally based on a system of traditional Indian medicine, Aveda’s products apply the five elements of sky, wind, fire, water and earth to strike a balance within the body and mind. K-cube’s therapists choose a combination of treatments and aromas unique to each client, allowing you to draw your inner beauty to the surface.
Up on the second floor, the hair salon offers a deeply relaxing aromatherapy scalp massage, as well as coloring treatments with products containing 93 percent plant extracts that will imbue your hair with a glowing luster.
■ 1-39-1 Motomachi, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-663-1981. Open Mon, Wed-Fri 11am-8:30pm, Sat 10am-7:30pm, Sun 10am-6pm, closed Tue. Nearest stn: Motomachi-Chukagai, exit 5. www.k-cube.jp
Nakamaru Dental Clinic
Everybody loves a trip to the dentist, right? Well, maybe not, but that’s all the more reason to make sure your dentist is attentive, patient and skilled—and Dr. Goro Nakamaru at the Nakamaru Dental Clinic is all three. Whether you’re having problems with cavities or a tooth that’s broken, yellowing or misaligned—even a dental emergency—Nakamaru’s combination of cutting-edge equipment and old-fashioned bedside manner will put you at ease.
Nakamaru graduated from Kanagawa Dental College in 1993, going on to study and work at esteemed clinics around Kanagawa before a stint at UCLA, where he studied periodontal disease and dental implants. He founded his practice on returning to Japan in 2002, and has built a reputation for carefully explaining each procedure (and its cost) before it begins. Don’t forget your health insurance card.
■ 3F Mamebun Bldg, 1-13-5 Ishikawa-cho, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-681-3359. Open Tue-Fri 10am-1:30pm and 3-7pm, Sat 10am-4pm, closed Sun-Mon. Nearest stn: Ishikawacho, Motomachi-Chukagai. http://www.nakamaru-dental.jp/pc/free4.html
area guide
Yokohama station
The busiest train hub in Kanagawa and the fifth-busiest in Japan, Yokohama station serves some 2.05 million passengers daily. The station was destroyed during the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake, but reopened within just six days, and today is surrounded by department stores, restaurants, shops and hotels.
Sea Bass See Map 1
This waterbus service stops at Minato Mirai, the Red Brick Warehouse and Yamashita Park. Hop on in the evening to see an unforgettable view of the glittering Yokohama skyline.
Sotetsu Joinus See Map 2
While not as famous as the nearby branches of Marui, Sogo and Lumine, the Sotetsu Joinus department store is packed with top fashion brands, restaurants, a supermarket and even a rooftop soccer park.
Yokohama Bay Sheraton Hotel See Map 3
Perfect for a spot of afternoon tea, the magnificent Seawind lobby lounge at the Sheraton features grand staircases, high ceilings, large windows and (usually) long queues.
Minato Mirai 21
Literally translated as “Future Harbour 21,” Minato Mirai 21 is built largely on reclaimed land and boasts many of Yokohama’s hotspots, such as the Landmark Tower and Cosmo World amusement park. Or you can forgo all the tourist destinations and take a stroll along the water.
Aka Renga Soko See Map 4
Dubbed the Red Brick Warehouse in English, Aka Renga Soko is a pair of buildings that were originally used by Yokohama customs officials. The converted warehouses are home to a variety of shops, restaurants and cultural facilities. The large plaza between the two buildings hosts festivals just about every weekend from spring through autumn.
Yokohama Museum of Art See Map 5
Get cultured with a collection of local and international artworks from the likes of Picasso, Dalí, Matisse and renowned Japanese artists Shiko Imamura and Kanzan Shimomura. Entry is just ¥500.
Rinko Park See Map 6
This lush green space on the waterfront is an inviting spot for a picnic or a stroll. Don’t miss the quirky and colorful Fruit Tree sculpture by Korean artist Choi Jeong Hwa, a holdover from the 2001 Yokohama Triennale art fair.
Bashamichi/Kannai
Bashamichi station (on the Minatomirai line) features gorgeous brickwork that calls to mind the district’s historical roots, with a bas relief on the main concourse that depicts life on the port. The area around Kannai station (on the JR line), meanwhile, is home to much of Yokohama’s nightlife, with restaurants, live-music venues and clubs scattered between the pachinko parlors and ramen shops.
Nipponkoa Insurance Building See Map 7
Originally built in 1922 and refurbished in 1989, the Nipponkoa Insurance Building features a stunning stone-and-glass façade. It houses offices, a clothes shop and a pub.
Kanagawa Prefectural
Museum of Cultural History See Map 8
Housed in a neoclassical building with an ornate spired cupola, the Kanagawa Prefectural Museum of Cultural History displays ancient and medieval art, alongside contemporary works.
Yokohama Park See Map 9
With its lush green lawns, Japanese garden and large lake, you might almost forget that Yokohama Park is also home to the vast Yokohama Stadium. A good spot for a breather.
Yamashita Park/Chinatown
Though its population of Chinese residents has decreased over the years, Yokohama’s Chinatown is the largest in Asia, with over 200 restaurants, a temple, several ornate gates and numerous specialty shops. Nearby Yamashita Park is prime strolling ground, with a picturesque view of the bay.
Hikawa Maru See Map 10
This massive ocean liner sailed between Yokohama and Vancouver/Seattle for 30 years from 1930, playing host to the Imperial family and Charlie Chaplin. It is now part museum, part time capsule.
Kanteibyo See Map 11
Rebuilt in 1962, this gaudily colored temple enshrining Emperor Guan has suffered the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake, World War II bombings and two fires, restored each time by the local Chinese community.
Marine Tower See Map 12
The world’s tallest lighthouse, Marine Tower boasts a 100m-high observation deck that on a clear day affords views all the way to Mount Fuji. It also houses a gallery, restaurants and a bar.
Motomachi/Yamate
The pleasant Motomachi shopping street is Yokohama’s answer to Ginza, and home to some of Japan’s most famous shops, including Kikuya confectioners and Star Jewelry here. Yamate, meanwhile, offers sumptuous harbor views and a taste of some real history, like the sprawling Yokohama Foreign General Cemetery.
Star Jewelry See Map 13
Opened on Motomachi in 1946, Star Jewelry has become a nationwide chain (no pun intended), with a large collection of sparkly rocks in a range of prices. The Motomachi branch also houses a museum.
Yokohama Foreign
General Cemetery See Map 14
The first wave of foreigners to settle in Yokohama in 1859 helped shape the country we know today. Here you can visit the resting place of past generations and learn about their achievements.
Yamate Bluff See Map 15
A selection of well-preserved houses around Yamate Bluff, mostly built after the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake, are open to the public, providing a glimpse into how foreign dignitaries lived in days gone by.
services
The Nail Factory
A Yokohama staple for nearly 25 years, The Nail Factory has two salons in the city, plus one each in Yokosuka and California; it even has its own school for nail artists. Key to the chain’s success are its high standards for quality and technique, whether it’s decorating digits with an array of gorgeous nail art or simply applying tried and tested preening practice.
All of The Nail Factory’s staff are thoroughly trained and certified in both Japan and the US, and both Yokohama branches offer treatments ranging from manicures and pedicures to nail art and acrylic-gel extensions. Though located on a main street, the sunlit Motomachi salon is a relaxing and spacious oasis of calm. The other branch is located in the stylish Yokohama Bay Quarter shopping center, which is home to chic shops, restaurants and a stunning ocean view. Best of all, the salons offer a walk-in service—which means that flash of panache is always right at your fingertips.
Reservations are preferred, and priority is given to those who make a booking. So call today to avoid a wait!
■ Motomachi branch: 2F, 1-20 Moto Machi, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-662-9880. Open daily 10am-8pm. Nearest stn: Motomachi-Chukagai, exit 5.
■ Yokohama Bay Quarter branch: 3F 1-10 Kinkoucho, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-441-2270. Open daily 11am-9pm. Nearest stn: Yokohama (east exit). www.nailfactory.co.jp
■ Los Angeles branch: 23215 Hawthorne Blvd Suite F, Torrance, CA. Tel: 1-310-378-0457.
Tiara
If you’ve been cursing all that time you lose to fiddling with fake lashes every day, then semi-permanent eyelash extensions are just the ticket. Tiara offers a range of vibrant extensions for everyday wear or special occasions, enhancing your eyelashes for a beautiful and natural look and feel. Extensions are fixed with top-quality made-in-Japan glue, which means there are no irritants or funny scents to worry about—that is, they’re as safe as they are sexy.
Tiara’s menu also includes “3-D” permanent eyebrows, which are tattooed in three or four gradated colors for a realistic effect. These can be applied by hand or machine, depending on your preference—a complimentary, obligation-free consultation allows you to ask all the questions you need to feel comfortable. And until the end of June, all permanent cosmetics come with a 20 percent discount; eyebrows are reduced from ¥58,000 to ¥46,000, and permanent eyeliner is down from ¥42,000 to ¥33,000. A bargain, yes—but better still, a time-saver.
■ 603 Lions Plaza Yokohama Tobe, 1-28-13 Chuo, Nishi-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 090-7483-7918. Email: tiara603@yahoo.co.jp. Open daily 10am-10pm. Nearest stn: Tobe, Takashima-cho, Hiranumabashi. http://artmake-tiara.p-kit.com
Yokohama Guest House Happy Flat
Sometimes, the name says it all. Yokohama Guest House Happy Flat is a hostel in Yokohama for happy people. The residence was built by a local family after several memorable experiences hosting exchange students in their home. With a charming and friendly atmosphere, the guesthouse has three twin rooms and a communal dining area, where breakfast is provided free of charge.
Yokohama Guest House Happy Flat is for women only—sorry, gents—and smoking is prohibited; rent starts at ¥60,000 per month. Above all, the family philosophy means happiness is high on the agenda. So ladies, make yourselves at home.
■ 1-77 Nishitobecho, Nishi-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 080-3758-6737. Nearest stn: Hinodecho or Sakuragicho. http://happyflat.mods.jp
Guesthouse Kase
It’s a well-known fact that rental apartments in Japan can be expensive. But what you might not know is that Guesthouse Kase provides low-priced accommodations in numerous locations throughout Tokyo and Yokohama. One of the reasons prices for single units are so high is because you’re paying for your own bathroom and kitchen, but the cost drops at Guesthouse Kase, where residents share facilities. Not only does everyone save money, people who live in guesthouses quickly form a tight-knit community, providing more of a family atmosphere than you’d ever get living alone.
Guesthouse Kase offers an easy-to-understand rental system, no initial costs, and a choice of many popular locations. Rooms come with a complete set of bedding, television and air conditioner, and microwave ovens and water heaters are allowed (note: exact appliances vary according to guesthouse). Free internet is also available in every room.
If you’re seeking comfortable living quarters which provide all your basics at a reasonable price, Guesthouse Kase is waiting for you.
■ 88 Kase Bldg, 3-19-11 Shin-Yokohama, Kohoku-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-470-0082. Email: yousuke.tsushiro@kasegroup.co.jp. Nearest stn: Shin-Yokohama. http://www.kase0082.jp/index_en.htm
SU Partners Tax Corporation
Whether you’re a regular worker or a business owner, keeping up with your accounts and taxes can be stressful. Providing services that range from basic to complex, SU Partners Tax Corporation helps ease the pain by doing the legwork for you. They look after such basics as bookkeeping, payroll, corporate and individual tax-return preparation, consultation on complicated accounting and tax issues, and tax representation, crunching the numbers so you don’t have to.
On top of that, SU Partners offer an extra layer of corporate services, getting under the skin of your company and creating a business plan, consulting on the financing requirements of the banks, and discussing capital formation and inheritance issues. Other services include international tax and accounting, SPC funds, mergers and acquisitions, business succession, entrepreneur support and more.
■ 3F Yokohama Kinko-cho Bldg, 6-3 Kinko-cho, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 0120-91-8826 (toll free). Open Mon-Fri 9:30am-6pm, closed Sat-Sun. Nearest stn: Yokohama (Northeast exit). www.supt.jp/english
Bayside Academy
As the old saying goes, when in Rome, do as the Romans do. In Japan, the “Romans” speak Japanese! No doubt they have been taking lessons at Bayside Academy, where the Japanese language is taught in a friendly and supportive environment. Now in its 20th year, the school hosts students from 50 different countries, all of whom learn to speak and write Japanese for everyday life and business. They also have the opportunity to prepare for the Japanese Language Aptitude Test or JETRO’s Business Japanese Proficiency Test. The academy offers special courses for teachers and students of international schools, intensive courses, home or office lessons, and group or private sessions; courses are tailored to suit the student.
Languages can be difficult to learn without practical application, and at Bayside Academy, students are able to enjoy unique techniques to make Japanese come alive. Starting with the basics of hiragana and katakana, students move on to master the art of kanji. Every summer, they compile a handwritten journal about their experiences in Japan—a memorable record of the lessons they have learned inside and outside the classroom. There is no doubt that you will get more out of your time in Japan if you speak the language, so if Japanese is puzzling for you, it’s time to invest in some classes!
■ 602 Clio Remington House, 87-1 Yamashita-cho, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-222-6006. Open daily 9am-8pm. Nearest stn: Motomachi-Chukagai. http://homepage3.nifty.com/baysideac/index_e.html
ShyoShyoAn
Once upon a time, kimono (literally “things to wear”) were everyday attire in Japan. Nowadays, these elegant T-shaped robes, tied at the back with an obi sash, are reserved for special occasions. Since kimono are not tailored to fit, the wearer needs a certain skill to wear them properly—easy enough to learn when they were the only thing in your wardrobe, but not so simple in 21st-century Japan.
The answer is lessons in kitsuke (kimono dressing) from a certified expert. Shyo-ShyoAn offers instruction in English, with a painless and natural approach that makes it easy to wrap up and look stunning. A one-off yukata (light cotton robe) lesson lays down the essentials, while the basic komon and taiko dressing takes just three lessons to learn. Longer classes that lead to certification are also available, as are rental garments. If you’ve bought a kimono or yukata of your own, don’t just stash it away—as pretty as it looked when you bought it, just imagine the heads you’ll turn when you wear it to a festival or fireworks display this summer.
■ http://sites.google.com/site/shyoshyoan
Yokohama Country & Athletic Club (YC&AC)
Established in 1868, the Yokohama Country & Athletic Club has long offered foreign residents a place to get active. But more than that, it offers a community feel you won’t find at other sports clubs. Its proximity to a selection of international schools and churches, as well as foreigner-friendly medical facilities and shops, makes it a homey spot whether you’re a long-term expat or fresh off the boat.
Facilities include a FIFA-certified full-sized playing field for rugby, soccer, cricket, baseball and softball; lawn bowls green; tennis and squash courts; seasonal outdoor swimming pool; bowling alley; gymnasium; fitness center; children’s playground; billiards room; conference rooms; and dining and bar spaces. Besides sports, the club also holds social and community events, and a tour of the facilities and trial membership are available on request.
■ 11-1 Yaguchidai, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-623-8121. For times, see the online schedule. Nearest stn: Yamate. www.ycac.or.jp
Yokohama Design College
The Japanese language courses at Yokohama Design College place equal balance on reading, writing, speaking and listening, while also preparing students for their next step—whether that means a university, graduate school, or other specialized institution. With themed classes such as “Japanese Language Proficiency Test, and proceeding to University” and “Japanese Language Test at second grade,” and with some courses that take just a month to complete, Yokohama Design College emphasizes goal-oriented learning at a pace that suits the student. The school also runs a variety of classes that encourage students to apply their Japanese skills to their hobbies, be it fashion, design, dance, martial arts or flower-arranging.
There are five courses available. The Regular Course runs at beginner, intermediate and advanced levels, and is concerned with improving general proficiency and gearing up for exams. The Catch-Up Course lets you overcome the weak points of your skills and move on to the next level (minimum lesson is one month). The Business Course teaches professional Japanese and business conversation while preparing students for the BTJ Business Japanese Ability Test and STBJ Standard Business Japanese Test. For the Private Course, the timetable and syllabuses are developed based on each student’s needs. A trial lesson is also provided. The Intensive Courses allow students to make excellent use of their long vacation in spring, summer and autumn for a chance to quickly “level up.”
■ 1-33-6 Chuo, Nishi-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 0120-001-097 (toll free) or 045-323-0300. Nearest stn: Tobe. www.ydc.ac.jp/eng
Yokohama International
Education Academy
The Yokohama International Education Academy makes the most of its Minato Mirai location. Close to such landmarks as the National Convention Hall, Yokohama Museum of Art and the Landmark Tower, and with the Kanagawa Prefectural Youth Center and several libraries and music halls in the vicinity, it provides a fantastic environment for study. And with all dormitories located within walking distance of the campus, there’s an appealing community vibe.
The Japanese courses do more than simply teach the language: the academy strives to turn out well-rounded citizens as well. As such, it provides counseling, guidance and general subjects such as math, and keeps students primed with regular short essays and interview training.
EJU and JLPT exams are compulsory at the academy, and the school’s high pass rates speak for themselves. There’s plenty of incentive to get your head down—students who hit the highest marks get recommended to the best universities—but speech contests and sport events keep the competition friendly. And when it all gets too much, Tokyo, Hakone, Kamakura and even Mount Fuji are just a short train ride away.
■ 43 Miyazaki-cho, Nishi-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-250-3656. Nearest stn: Sakuragicho, Minatomirai, Hinode-cho. http://yiea.com/english
Pizzeria Martano
With its chic design and authentic Neapolitan cuisine, Pizzeria Martano offers comfortable dining at very reasonable prices. The pizzas are made with flour imported from Naples, and fired to perfection in a brick oven; try a simple margherita (¥1,300) for the bona fide experience or, for a taste of home, the more American-styled “Enzo,” with pepperoni, sausage, onion, olives and mushrooms (¥1,580).
The menus, written in both Japanese and English with plenty of photos, feature a wide variety of mouthwatering starters and pastas, with local fish and seafood featuring heavily. The dessert menu alone could rack you with indecision for hours, but that’s OK—Martano’s relaxing atmosphere means there’s no need to rush.
■ 2-8-2 Azamino-Minami, Aoba-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-910-5845. Open Mon-Thu 11:30am-3:30pm and 6-9pm, Fri 11:30am-3:30pm and 6-10pm, Sat 11:30am-10pm, Sun & hols 11:30am-9pm. Nearest stn: Eda, west exit, or Azamino. Free parking. www.martano.jp
Sparta
When sailor Eriyasu Sukazofu, a native of the Greek city Sparta, set up a restaurant named after his hometown in Yokohama’s Akebono-cho more than 50 years ago, he surely could not have imagined it would still be in business in the 21st century. Clearly that legendary Spartan spirit rings true.
Now relocated to Horai-cho, just steps from Kannai station, Sparta features ingredients imported from Greece, resulting in an authentic menu of olives, salads (with real feta cheese), moussaka, paidakia, fried sardines and more—all prepared with the olive oil that Greece is famous for. Course menus start at just ¥2,500, and a wide selection of à la carte dishes are available. The drinks menu includes wine, beer, ouzo and even water shipped from the motherland. All this makes Sparta the perfect place to dine and unwind after a day in Yokohama’s hustle and bustle.
■ 2-6-7 Horai-cho, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-253-1645. Open Mon-Fri 11am-1pm and 5-11pm, Sat-Sun 5-11pm. Nearest stn: Kannai. www.sparta.jp
Rooms With A View
Get an eyeful of the Yokohama skyline at these bayside eateries
Daidaya
This contemporary Japanese restaurant from the storied Chanto dining group occupies two floors in the Queen’s Square shopping center, offering a grand vista of Minato Mirai and its iconic Ferris wheel. The lovely view out the window is matched by the trendy cuisine on the plate—menu items range from sesame-tofu gratin (¥714) and black-vinegar chicken nanban (¥1,260) to classics like sushi and sashimi assortments (from ¥1,155). Daidaya is one of the area’s top date spots.
■ 4-5F Queen’s Square, 2-3-8 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku. Tel: 045-228-5035. Open daily 11am-3pm and 5-11pm. Nearest stn: JR Sakuragicho or Minatomirai. www.chanto.com See Map 24
Buco di Muro
Just around the corner from Daidaya, Buco Di Muro is a casual restaurant that specializes in authentic southern Italian cooking. The large terrace offers the perfect spot to take in the excitement of nearby Cosmo World amusement park, or you can head inside to watch the chefs do their thing in the open kitchen. Buco di Muro is notable for serving crowd-pleasing favorites like pizza margherita and linguine pescatore alongside less well-known dishes like paccheri (a tube-like pasta) with shrimp and zucchini in a bagna cauda sauce; prices are mostly in the ¥1,000-¥2,000 range. The antipasto items are uniformly wonderful.
■ 2F At! 1st, 2-3-9 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku. Tel: 045-682-2725. Open daily 11am-10:30pm. Nearest stn: JR Sakuragicho or Minatomirai (Minatomirai line). See Map 24
L.A.S.T.
Located on the fifth floor of the World Porters shopping center, L.A.S.T offers a stunning view of Landmark Tower and the Sakuragicho skyline. The whole family will enjoy the lively atmosphere at this American-themed eatery, where cute waitresses in referee uniforms serve classic comfort food—“blooming” onion rings, burgers, steaks, pizza, jambalaya, fajitas, BBQ chicken; almost everything is in the ¥600-¥1,600 range. A variety of kids’ meals are available, while parents will enjoy the vast drinks menu, which includes beer and margaritas by the pitcher. The restaurant’s name, improbably, stands for “Love American Story Time.”
■ 5F World Porters, 2-2-1 Shinko, Naka-ku. Tel: 045-222-2533. Open daily 11am-11pm. Nearest stn: JR Sakuragicho, Minatomirai or Bashamichi (Minatomirai line). www.american-last.com See Map 25
Sirius
With stunning vistas and a well-heeled clientele, Sirius offers the most exquisite high-altitude dining experience this side of a JAL first-class cabin. The restaurant is located in the Yokohama Royal Park Hotel on the 70th floor of the iconic Landmark Tower, and in addition to lunch, brunch and dinner, offers a classy tea service and nightly live entertainment. The breakfast buffet (¥2,940) is a local favorite—with dozens of items including fresh-baked breads, eggs, pancakes, sausages, fresh fruit and ice cream, it’s the perfect way to fuel up for a day of Yokohama sightseeing. Table charge ¥1,050-¥2,100.
■ 70F Yokohama Royal Park Hotel, 2-2-1-3 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku. Tel: 045-221-1155. Open daily; check website for details. Nearest stn: JR Sakuragicho. www.yrph.com See Map 26
nightlife
Party Time
When the sun sets on Yokohama, the good times are just getting started
Club 24 West
Club 24 West is the ultimate garage-style live house—there’s virtually no separation between the band and the audience, which typically jumps up and down to punk, hardcore, and straight-ahead rock and blues. Founded eight years ago, this lively little joint is everything you want in a live music bar: great location only stumbling distance away from Kannai station and home to a plethora of awesome young Yokohama bands that are just finding their legs. Between sets, drink cans of cheap Asahi Super Dry in the stairwell, or outside on the sidewalk, with a likeminded and easygoing crowd of regulars.
■ B1, 10 Yoshidamachi, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-252-2424. Open 6pm-late. Nearest stn: Kannai, north exit. www.club24west.com See Map 27
Bar Bar Bar
While its name may resemble the bleating of sheep, Bar Bar Bar’s clientele are anything but. Opened in 1984, it has built a solid reputation for decent food and jazz music on the second floor and a friendly counter bar on the first. With a European flavor, its food menu starts from ¥630, with a five-course set menu at ¥4,200. Nightly jazz performances showcase the best local talent in a comfortable setting, while a lengthy drinks menu includes several whiskies, scotches and wines. Since space is limited, reservations by phone or online are recommended.
■ 1-2F Wakaba Transportation Bldg, 1-25 Aioi-cho, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-662-0493. Bar open Mon-Sat 6pm-3am (closed Sun; if Mon is a public holiday, open 5pm-midnight, then closed Tue); restaurant open daily 6pm-midnight; live shows from 7:30pm. Nearest stn: Kannai, south exit. www.barbarbar.jp See Map 28
Dragon Club
Probably the loudest club in Kanagawa, Dragon Club plays host to rock bands from Yokohama, the rest of Japan and even overseas, as well as popular reggae and dancehall nights and some filthy electro parties. Its large bar area is separated from the main room by a soundproofed glass wall; there the sound is a more reasonable volume and the beers flow freely. All-night events such as indie-dance crossover club Reclash feature hot local DJs and will keep you going till the first train. Just don’t forget your earplugs.
■ 1F, 1-2 Akebonocho, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-262-2601. Nearest stn: Isezaki-chojamachi, Kannai. www.dragon-club.asia See Map 29
Thrash Zone
OK, we’ll admit it’s pretty niche. But if strong craft beer and thrash metal are your thing, you’re going to love Thrash Zone. English-speaking owner Koichi Katsuki founded the bar in 2006 to indulge his twin passions: the selection of microbrewed draught beers changes regularly and Katsuki can talk for hours about any one of them, just as easily as he can about the music on the stereo. Don’t worry, it’s not too loud, and the bar is also refreshingly smoke-free, making for a perfect post-gig watering hole.
■ 2F Paseri Bldg, 2-19-8 Tsuruyacho, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-514-9947. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am, closed Sun. Nearest stn: Yokohama, west exit. www.beerdrinkinginternational.com See Map 30
F.A.D. (Flower & Dragon)
Although F.A.D. (Flower & Dragon) is regarded as Yokohama’s premier live venue for hardcore and punk music, its booking policy is actually more eclectic: recent bills have included electropop outfit Bremen, the bouncing ska of Yum!Yum!ORANGE, Metropolis faves Mass of the Fermenting Dregs and Group Sounds-influenced J-pop heroes GO!GO!7188. The occasional British or American band rounds out the schedule most months, and the friendly atmosphere and ground-floor location make a nice change from your average Tokyo music dungeon.
■ 1F, 168-1 Yamashita-cho, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-663-3842. Nearest stn: Ishikawacho, north exit. www.fad-music.com See Map 31
The Tavern
A popular haunt for expats, The Tavern is an authentic British pub whose authentic British owner dispenses complimentary puns as well as a selection of tasty draught and bottled beers. While the London Pride and Guinness offer a taste of the UK, it’s the Budvar and San Miguel that really recall your average London boozer, and Japanese readers curious to learn the true definition of the word cider can do so here. The food menu includes shepherd’s pie and sausage rolls, sport plays live or prerecorded on the big screen, and the decor is straight out of EastEnders.
■ B1, Nishiguchi Meiwa Bldg, 2-14 Minami Saiwai-cho, Nishi-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-322-9727. Open Mon-Tue 6pm-midnight, Wed-Thu 6pm-1am, Fri 6pm-5am, Sat 5pm-5am, Sun 12pm-midnight. Nearest stn: Yokohama, west exit. www.the-tavern.com See Map 32
Stardust
Though opened in 1954, the jukebox at Stardust is stuck in the ’60s and ’70s—and that’s just how the regulars like it. This well-loved bar near the North Pier adorned the six of spades in a recent commemorative deck of Yokohama cards, and offers a view of the boats on the bay as you nurse one of 100 cocktails (from ¥800). The bar has logo-stamped Zippo lighters and embroidered denim jackets for sale, so you can even get a keepsake out of the bargain.
■ 2-1 Chiwaka-cho, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-441-1017. Open daily 5pm-2am. Nearest stn: Nakakido, Higashi-Kanagawa. www.bar-stardust.com
