Look and feel your best this summer with the help of Tokyo’s beauty professionals
Plastic surgery
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As one of Tokyo’s most popular centers for cosmetic treatment, Akai Medical Clinic has an unmatched reputation in its field. AMC is run by Dr. Hidemi Akai, a board-certified plastic surgeon who attended Harvard Medical School and trained at Massachusetts General Hospital, and Dr. Keiko Akai and Dr. Yuko Tani, board-certified skin-care specialists who can help you with all your dermatological needs. They consistently employ the most state-of-the-art equipment and techniques to offer a range and quality of service that you simply won’t find anywhere else in town.
The clinic’s most popular laser procedures are Polaris and Fotofacial RF treatments, for sun-damaged skin, wrinkle reduction, rosacea, freckles and skin tightening; Affirm fractional Nd-YAG laser treatment, for skin tightening and pore correction; and eCO2 fractional laser treatment, a skin ablation laser method that can be used to treat the effects of aging and sun damage on skin, as well as scars, large pores and stretch marks, with minimal discomfort and fast recovery times. If lasers aren’t your thing, Akai is also the only place in Japan with an EndyMed PRO machine, a high-tech radio frequency device that provides non-ablative skin tightening, body tightening, body contouring and cellulite treatment; or, you could opt for Portrait Plasma for skin regeneration and tightening as well as fixing acne and acne scars.
Botox is another popular option—it’s offered for the bargain price of ¥20,000 per area—while hyarulonic acid treatment for laugh lines and lip augmentation is also all the rage. Laser hair removal, VelaSmooth cellulite and body contouring, and hair transplantation procedures are other popular procedures.
A course of full-facial chemical peeling and microdermabrasion therapy—the clinic’s most in-demand skincare procedures—removes sun-damaged skin, acne scars and blotches; it’s currently just ¥50,000 for six sessions. iClear phototherapy and photodynamic therapies tackle acne and skin rejuvenation, while iontophoresis, phonophoresis and growth-factor aided skincare will keep your skin looking younger.
Headline cosmetic surgeries, meanwhile, include eyelid surgery, nasal reshaping, facelifts and necklifts, breast surgery (augmentation, lift and reduction) and liposuction.
Cosmetic procedures using regenerative medicine include PRFM (platelet-rich fibrin matrix) growth factor and W-PRP injections, where PRFM is collected from your blood for skin and tissue regeneration to clear up tear troughs and laughter lines; PS rich fat injections, using purified fat and adipose tissue-derived stem cells for flawless breast augmentation, buttock lifting and facial rejuvenation; HARG therapy, where growth factor injections aid hair growth and restoration; and intraoperative bone-tissue engineering with stem cells, PRP and fibrin for facial contouring. The clinic also sells rejuvenating daily skincare products, including growth factors.
Whew, that’s quite a menu. But don’t fret: the doctors provide detailed consultations at the clinic’s Omotesando and Yokohama branches, so you can be sure to find the option that’s best for you this summer.
☛ 3F KNK Bldg, 3-5-17 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-5771-4114. Open daily 11am-8pm. Email: amc@akaiclinic.com. Nearest stn: Omotesando, exit A3. See website for details on the Yokohama branch. www.akaiclinic.com/en/index.html
Azabu Skin Clinic
The beautiful hydrangea season is now upon us! In celebration of the warm weather, Azabu Skin Clinic has recently introduced hormone replacement therapy (HRT). Do you get tired quicker, put on weight more easily, find it harder to summon up the energy to work, have a memory loss problem, feel sagginess on your skin, and feel your sexual ability has weakened? This is because when we reach a certain age, the hormone levels in our bodies begin to decline: growth hormones, testosterone, estrogen, progesterone, thyroid, DHEA, pregnenolone—you name it, we’re losing it. As each hormone declines, various symptoms appear. Replenishing hormones helps you recover your well-being, metabolism, cognition, vitality and sexual ability. It is also effective for recovering your lipid metabolism, reducing visceral fat and cardiovascular disorder, and enhancing your bones, and the quality and quantity of muscles.
Azabu Skin Clinic offers Bio-identical Hormone Therapy, an advanced method that replicates the chemical structure of your natural hormones with fewer side effects than regular HRT. Treatment is preceded and followed by thorough checkups that include tumor markers, serum hormone levels, biochemical analyses. Upon request, PET testing is also available to check for tumors.
What’s more, Azabu Skin Clinic offers thorough consultation by an endocrine secretion specialist, and the clinic is affiliated with a specialist in the US to provide follow-up and ensure your serum hormone level is optimized.
Azabu Skin Clinic has also introduced the latest Thermacool CPT (Comfort Pulse Technology), a painless procedure to tighten sagging in your face, neck and abdomen. A one-time treatment produces noticeable and long-lasting results. No surgery or injection is required, and the treatment can also improve the appearance of cellulite or tighten thighs.
The clinic is also offering discounts for acne and acne scar treatments; Titan XL for sagginess, IPL Photofacial for spots, elasticity, and redness on your skin; and CET hyperthermic method, Thermacool, V-beam laser, PDT (Photo Dynamic Therapy) and Botox for wrinkles and Hyperhidrosis. Check the website for details.
Azabu Skin Clinic is run by Tokyo Medical University graduate and trained dermatologist Dr. Chiaki Kawashima. She regularly participates in foreign academic meetings for such illustrious bodies as the American Academy of Dermatology and the American Society for Laser Medicine and Surgery, keeping her abreast of current developments in the field and helping her to employ the latest technology to provide state-of-the-art treatment. A third of the clinic’s customers are non-Japanese, so the doctors are used to treating a range of skin types and offer consultations in English.
With a combination of advanced technology and skilled specialists with good old-fashioned bedside manner, Azabu Skin Clinic offers a safe and comfortable environment to transform yourself this summer.
☛ 7F Hagiwara Bldg 1, 1-3-1 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 0120-005-327 (toll-free). Open Thu-Mon 10am-7pm, Tue-Wed 11am-8pm. Nearest stn: Ebisu.
www.azabu-skinclinic.com/english/index.html
Plaza Plastic Surgery
There is no shortage of cosmetic surgery clinics in Tokyo, but Plaza Plastic Surgery in Hiroo is the only one in all of Japan that’s owned and operated by US board-certified plastic surgeons—each of whom has more than 18 years’ worth of experience in the States. Head surgeon Dr. Robert Kure is certified by the American Board of Plastic Surgery; after beginning his career as a neurosurgeon, he turned his talents to the beauty industry, and later became the chief resident in both neurosurgery and plastic surgery at UCLA. So you can be sure that you’re in safe and distinguished hands.
We all want to ward off the effects of the aging process, and the wide range of treatments available at Plaza Plastic Surgery can help you to do just that. Dr. Kure has used Botox for well over a decade to ease frown lines, remove crow’s feet, and even tackle migraines and TMJ pain. The surgery offers Botox and Restylane treatments as walk-in services, often without any need for a follow-up. Other popular services range from facelifts to liposuction, tattoo erasing and freckle removal.
Plaza Plastic Surgery offers a varied menu of in-depth but safe procedures, including outpatient rhinoplasty, micro-fat injection, eye surgery, breast augmentation and double eyelid procedures. Kure’s colleague Dr. Mineo Orito is double-trained in ENT and formerly practiced in New York, where he specialized in treating difficult cases of facial aging and nasal deformity. And that’s not all—Plaza Plastic Surgery also performs treatment for erectile dysfunction and male pattern baldness. Ladies, meanwhile, can be pampered with the new eyelash conditioner sold exclusively at the clinic.
The clinic’s state-of-the-art laser—the US-developed Titan-XL—is used for onsite lifts and tightening, and unlike other non-invasive techniques such as Thermacool, the treatment is virtually painless. The laser can be used to treat wrinkles, blotchy spots, rosacea and spider veins, and laser hair removal is also available.
Conveniently located next to Starbucks near Hiroo crossing, Plaza Plastic Surgery is even open on weekends. Stop by for a consultation in English, which covers not only cosmetic surgery procedures but also general health, supplements and nutrition. After all, beauty is not only skin deep—Plaza can help you enhance the natural beauty that lies within.
☛ 4F, 5-5-1 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5475-2345. Open Fri-Wed 10am-7pm (by appointment), closed Thu. Nearest stn: Hiroo. www.plazaclinic.net
Kaz Taira at Dude describes cutting hair the way an architect would describe building a house: “We always start off by designing the overall line of the haircut, which is the foundation,” he says. “We then add volume with graduation and layering techniques. As a final process, we work on the details such as texturizing or thinning which give character to the haircut.” And that’s not all. “Most haircutters concentrate on thinning out hair without following this basic construction process,” he continues. “Good haircuts with substance never fall apart after the first wash and last a long time. Too much thinning makes fine Western hair frizzy and unmanageable. Japanese hair can still look good with lots of thinning.” If you would like your hair to look slick and shiny through the rainy season, Dude recommends a Super Intense Straightening Perm & Cut (¥21,000) or a Semi-Permanent Straightening Iron Treatment, which will last about 4-5 weeks (¥8,400). Dude will also leave you in peace, because they know that hairdressers’ silly conversation and personal questions can be extremely boring. So go to Dude and get an energy-boosting, happy haircut with substance in a super chilled-out environment.
☛ 6-5-2 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3400-3901. Open Mon & Wed-Sat 11am-8:30pm, Sun & hols 11am-8pm, closed Tue. Nearest stn: Meiji-Jingumae or Harajuku. www.dude.jp
While it may be exotic living the life of an expat in Tokyo, there are times when you feel like doing things the way you’re used to back home. Visiting the hairdresser, for example. While Japanese hair comes in just a few color shades, Western hair has over 10, and matching them can be tricky for local stylists using domestic hair products. This is where Gold Salon comes in. Recently relocated to snazzy digs in trendy Azabu-Juban, this Australian-run salon boasts an internationally trained team who use a selection of organic and aromatherapy-based imported products—MOP, Paul Mitchell, Sebastian, etc.—to get your do just right. Service in English, French, Spanish and Japanese is available… which is just how we fussy foreigners like it.
☛ 6F, 4-1-9 Azabu-Juban, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-6436-0228. Open Mon & Wed-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 11am-8pm, closed Tue. Nearest stn: Azabu-Juban. www.goldsalontokyo.com
Summer is fast approaching, and you want to look your best. A visit to Dan Suzuki’s Shape salon in Akasaka is just the thing to freshen up your do. Master stylist Dan draws on years of training at the Vidal Sassoon studios in London, which endowed him with both the creative vision and technical know-how to tackle any kind of styling challenge. When a simple trim just isn’t going to pass muster, Dan and his Shape artists will be glad to show off their highlight and foil-work skills, using Wella color products imported from the UK to ensure the best results for Western hair.
Shape knows how to pamper customers in style, too. The salon has its own coffee bar, where you can enjoy a complimentary cup of espresso, cappuccino or organic tea either before or after your appointment. And there’s no need to stop with your hair, either: Shape now offers manicures and pedicures while you’re having your trim. As a bonus to Metropolis readers, mention to your stylist that you’re interested in the “Metropolis Hair Treatment”—available to anyone booked in for a haircut—and you’ll get it for free.
☛ 4F, 6-3-16 Akasaka, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3568-3666. Open Mon-Tue & Thu-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat-Sun 10am-8pm, closed Wed and second Tue. Nearest stn: Akasaka, exit 6. www.shape-salon.com
You could describe Aki Watanabe’s rise as “meteoric.” A third-generation hairdresser, he began his career in the salons of Tokyo before embarking on a path that reads like a Who’s Who of hair styling.
He trained at the academies of Vidal Sassoon and Toni & Guy. He studied at the prestigious London Hair Academy. At the world-famous Windle Salon in London’s Covent Garden, Watanabe worked alongside such styling giants as Paul Windle, Eugene Soulieman and Johnnie Spong. It was Watanabe that introduced shiatsu as part of the service at Windle.
Fashion mags and brands noticed. Watanabe found himself styling for editorials in The Face, i-D and Sky, as well as for catwalk clients such as Red or Dead.
Fast-forward a couple of decades, and the chap now runs a salon in Harajuku, styling for clients as diverse as Beat Takeshi, Yohji Yamamoto Collections and Nike.
And while it’s Watanabe’s name on the door, he shares the styling spotlight with partner Chie Funakura, another veteran of London’s styling scene with a resume that includes editorials for GQ, i-D and FHM, among many others.
Forbes magazine called Watanabe the “best hairdresser in Tokyo”; Harper’s Bazaar Australia gave that same plaudit to Chie. One thing’s for sure: whoever you choose at Watanabe Hair Dressing, you’ll be getting incomparable styling and advice.
☛ B1 Sun Beauty Harajuku, 3-25-6 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3405-1188. Open Tue-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat 10am-9pm, Sun & hols 10am-8pm, closed Mon. Nearest stn: Harajuku or Meiji-Jingumae. www.watanabe-hair.com
Massage, Waxing & More!
It’s natural to be squeamish about a visit to the dentist, but at Aoyama St Omotesando Dental Clinic, Dr. Toshimitsu Ootara takes great pains to make sure you don’t feel any. The key is communication: Ootara graduated from Nagasaki University’s dental department, and he and all his staff speak conversational English; some staff members are fluent. Not only that, but the good doctor carefully explains the details of each treatment during free counseling sessions and allows the patient to ask as many questions as they like, even via email, before starting work. Also, the clinic prides itself on its stress-free environment, where the latest anesthesia methods are used to provide pain-free treatment.
Ootara specializes in esthetic treatment, which focuses not only on simple prevention and cure of dental problems but on improving dental structure, whitening, implants and orthodontics. The clinic also offers implants for front teeth, matched by a dental mechanic to suit the color and texture of your original teeth—so there’s no need to settle for an inferior bridge, as offered by most dentists. Your perfect summertime smile may be closer than you think.
☛ 1F Osakabe Bldg, 5-46-12 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3486-4484. Open Mon-Tue & Thu-Fri 11am-1:30pm and 3-8pm, Sat-Sun 10am-1pm and 2-5pm, closed Wed & hols. Nearest stn: Omotesando. www.aoyama-omotesando.jp
Located in the cosmopolitan neighborhood of Azabu-Juban, Beauty Clinic Carmel can help ensure your summer isn’t ruined by unsightly skin. The clinic’s lineup of rejuvenating treatments includes a special acne/break-out treatment for the face or body, reduced from ¥33,000 to just ¥9,900 for first time visitors—ideal for those with acne, acne scars or sensitive skin, or who just want to keep their skin looking ageless.
Carmel’s treatments are adjusted to suit each client, and its chemical peel and extraction procedures are kind to soft skin. The relaxed atmosphere and roster of experienced English-speaking staff mean the clinic has a family-friendly vibe. The menu also includes Monopolar Radio Frequency (to firm up skin for an instant younger look), professional makeup; eyelash perms and extensions; face and eye treatments for computer or TV addicts; and special treatments for brides, grooms and family members. Your face and body will feel brand new—and who can ask for a better start to summer?
☛ 1001 Maison House, 5-13-14 Azabu, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3584-1885 (call for reservations). Open daily 10am-10pm. Email: beautycarmeljp@yahoo.co.jp. Nearest stn: Azabu-Juban. www.beautycarmel.com
Now celebrating its tenth anniversary, Salon Kai is a Daiknyama nail art institution. Customers enjoy total indulgence in a bright, clean environment with plenty of natural light. Featured in trendy fashion mags like ViVi and Vogue, Kai offers designs that range from the subtle to the outrageous. So whether you’re off to a wedding party or a club, you’ll find eye-catching results to suit you.
Kai’s dedication to service is nothing short of impressive—sitting on a custom sofa, clients can have their fingernails and toenails done simultaneously by multiple nail artists—just the thing when you need pampering in a hurry. Complimentary Japanese sweets and tea are also provided.
Kai uses organic products with thalasso-therapeutic properties to lavish extra care upon your nails and skin. Nail polish is stocked in a special refrigerator—which keeps it fresh and also allows it to dry faster—and customers can choose from five different brands of gel to ensure they leave with nails that are truly one-of-a-kind.
☛ 3F I-Daikanyama, 14-7 Hachiyama-cho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5728-3638. Open Mon-Sat noon-9pm, Sun 11am-8pm. Nearest stn: Daikanyama. www.smartnotion.co.jp
Look your best this summer with the slimming and Organic Treatment courses at cozy Kojimachi salon En Lumiere, which boasts relaxed treatments and massage therapies.
The Slimming courses use Indiba Therapy, a regenerative radio-frequency treatment originally developed in Spain that offers visible results from the first session. This harmless procedure involves deep temperature increase to relieve tension and fatigue, relax tight or painful muscles, enhance blood circulation, release blockages in the body, and cleanse the lymphatic system. First-time visitors can enjoy the Slimming Leg course or Detox course for just ¥12,600 for 90 minutes (regular price ¥14,700).
The Organic Treatment courses use Carol Priest 100 percent organic cosmetics imported exclusively from New Zealand. The Aroma Facial Care course (¥10,500/80min) helps regenerate your face’s natural beauty, and is effective for sensitive skin and anti-aging. This is complemented by an Aroma Body Massage course (¥9,450/70min) to leave your body feeling relaxed and light.
☛ 1F Green Building, 3-12-6 Kojimachi, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: 03-6893-6893. Open Mon-Sat 11am-8pm, closed Sun. Nearest stn: Kojimachi. www.enlumiere.jp
Unless your apartment comes equipped with an internal sun that tans you safely and evenly—as well as a Hawaiian masseuse, relaxing aromas, and a way to lie around while fat is burned off your body—then home is probably nothing like Ho’me.
The salon’s “sun” comes in the form of airbrush tanning, which gives an immediate, even coloration that makes you look like you just flew in from Ibiza. You also avoid exposure to dangerous UV rays and the possibility of looking like a lobster. Ho’me’s airbrush tanning has the staying power of a real tan—ten days to two weeks—because of its deep skin penetration. For a full-body bronze, Ho’me charges only ¥6,000; for a partial tan, prices start at ¥4,000.
Ho’me’s lomi lomi massage is fantastic, the hot stones are divine, and the aromatherapy bliss. But what about this effortless way to shed flab? The salon has Alex-S, the “ultimate diet and relaxation machine.” It’s an electromagnetic, infrared light system that burns fat and cellulite, stimulates muscles, and drains lymph nodes—all while you do absolutely nothing. The Alex-S burns off the same as a 15km jog in just 30 minutes, and can work your entire body or perform spot treatments, with the option to choose your own specialized course. The cost is ¥10,000 for one-hour sessions.
Ho’me now also offers Powerlite Facial treatment, the most advanced non-invasive method for rejuvenating skin. Using intense pulsed light, it reduces wrinkles and enlarged pores, firms the skin and smoothes out texture and pigmentation, making you look years younger in the process. Get a trial session for ¥15,000 (usual price ¥17,500). Alternatively, choose from a selection of Ho’me Facials (glycolic peel, facial massage, nano vitamin C+E and much more), priced from ¥10,000; your therapist will recommend the best treatment for your skin type.
Ho’me also offers Powerlite Hair Removal (intense pulsed light), which is safe, speedy and, after a few sessions, will make shaving a thing of the past (¥3,500 armpits, ¥500 for one pulse).
☛ 103 Odakyu Minami-Aoyama Bldg, 5-12-3 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-5467-0191. Flexible opening hours/days. Email: staff@hometokyo.com. Nearest stn: Omotesando. www.hometokyo.com
For those of us who spent the winter months chowing down comfort food and lazing on the sofa, the prospect of hitting the beach in our swimsuit can be a little daunting. With branches in Roppongi and the Tsurumi area of Yokohama, International Beauty Salon offers salvation in the form of Lipo Light, a Radiofrequency treatment that burns fat without many of the undesirable side effects of actual liposuction. Lipo Light promotes collagen synthesis, leading to the creation of neo collagen and causing fat cells to contract, which results in a toned body and firmer skin. The procedure can smooth a flabby belly; firm arms, knees, thighs and buttocks; eliminate cellulite; and even redefine face contours or reduce a double chin. Results are visible after the first treatment, though the salon recommends repeat visits as well as a low-calorie diet and plenty of exercise. Best of all, you can return immediately to your daily routine after treatment, without the hangovers of surgery. Just don’t forget the sun cream.
☛ Tokyo branch: Tomy Haitsu 202, 3-13-6 Roppongi, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3746-2090. Open Tue-Fri 11am-6pm, closed Sat-Mon. Nearest stn: Roppongi.
☛ Yokohama branch: Epinaru, 4-7-9 Tsurumi-chuo, Tsurumi-ku. Tel: 045-508-0062. Open Wed & Sat-Sun 11am-6pm, closed Mon-Tue & Thu-Fri. Nearest stn: Tsurumi. http://www.esteticabrasilbeauty.com
Tried all the traditional remedies? Still suffering from a stiff neck, headaches or depression? Then it’s time to explore a technique that’s been working for the Chinese for 4,000 years.
The Jing Suina clinic in Ginza offers clients a holistic range of treatments and therapies to help improve general wellbeing, promote relaxation and reduce stress, plus treat specific injuries or illnesses. A single session at this Chinese therapeutic massage and acupuncture salon is often all it takes to get relief from chronic conditions and release built-up toxins in the body.
Jing Suina uses the Tui-Na technique, an ancient form of therapeutic massage that is an integral part of traditional Chinese medicine. The salon boss, Dr. Jing, is from a Shanghai-based family that has passed the technique from generation to generation, curing tens of thousands of patients in the process. The treatment can be used to alleviate physical ailments as diverse as migraines, sprains, herniated disks and hay fever. Health and beauty treatments are also available, including skin clarification, relief of atopic allergies, pelvis correction, circulation boosting, reduction of swelling and brightening of the eye area. One patient even reported that his Parkinson's Disease symptoms were alleviated after a visit to the clinic.
☛ 4F Kaniboku Hall, 4-8-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku. Tel: 03-3562-4160. Open daily 11am-10pm. Advance reservations recommended. Nearest stn: Ginza. www.jin-suina.com
Nua has fast become a favorite waxing and beauty salon for both expats and the local Japanese community. Its signature waxing technique by offers a fresh approach that delivers fast, effective and smooth results. Hair-removal options for ladies include eyebrow, arms, legs, bikini and Brazilian, while men can choose from back, chest and shoulder waxing. The professional treatments and soothing ambience at this Omotesando salon guarantee a relaxing experience.
The menu also includes manicures and pedicures, which are the ultimate pick-me-up for tired hands and feet, as well as perms and tints for eyelashes. Popular treatments include Dermalogica facials, an innovative and hard-to-find skin care program that is free of artificial colors, artificial fragrance and other common irritants, with a focus on improving the health of your skin.
Nua offers special packages with discounts on already reasonable prices, and a VIP point card rewards repeat customers. Appointments can be made by phone or email, but the tech-savvy may prefer to download the free Nua app from iTunes and make bookings or find directions from an iPhone with just one touch. Now that’s smooth.
☛ Lamial Jingumae #102, 4-8-17 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-6804-5285. Email info@nuajapan.com. Open Mon & Wed-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat-Sun 11am-7pm, closed Tue. Nearest stn: Omotesando. www.nuajapan.com
It’s easy to wax lyrical about the services at Waxing-Bee. This women-only waxing salon, conveniently located just a minute’s walk from Omotesando station, prides itself on its privacy and cleanliness. In fact, it only publishes its full address upon appointment and takes pride in its private location, so you can feel relaxed in a sanitary and refreshing environment. The salon is also renowned for Brazilian wax and bikini wax treatments that drastically minimizes pain.
At Waxing-Bee, all sheets, spatulas, towels and (non-latex) gloves are disposable, replaced for each and every client. The salon’s certified and highly trained specialists adhere to a strict no re-dipping policy, and use wax made from natural ingredients. And best of all, if you mention Metropolis when you make your booking, you’ll get a 10 percent discount (offer valid until August 31).
☛ Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku. Reservations may be placed either via telephone or online. Tel: 03-5485-0578. Email contact@waxing-bee.com. Appointments only. Nearest stn: Omotesando. www.waxing-bee.com
Tattoo parlors
Want a permanent reminder of your time in Japan? Black Eyes Tattoo can help you create it. Go to one of their two locations—just five minutes from Shibuya and seven minutes from Yokosuka-Chuo—and you can have your body inked in a vast array of styles, including American Traditional, Realistic, Old School, New School, Neo-Japanese, and the ever-popular Wabori (Japanese Traditional). The parlors offer a friendly environment for first-timers and hardcore ink heads alike, and all tattoos are done by fully trained professionals. The English- and Japanese-speaking artists will happily answer any questions or concerns you may have regarding your tattoo. Consultations are offered free of charge and can be done by phone, email, or in person, while tattoos are available on a walk-in basis as well as by appointment.
☛ Black Eyes Ikejiri: 2-33-13 Ikejiri, Setagaya-ku. Tel: 03-3413-1955. Open Fri-Wed 1-9pm, closed Thu & Dec 30-Jan 3. Nearest stn: Ikejiri Ohashi (Denentoshi line).
☛ Black Eyes Yokosuka: 3F Daiichi Ueda Bldg, 1-5-5 Honcho, Yokosuka. Tel: 046-827-2296. Open Mon-Fri 1-9pm, Sat-Sun 10am-9pm. Closed Dec 30-31. Nearest stn: Yokosuka-Chuo or Shiori (Keikyu line). www.black-eyes.jp
Finding a reliable tattoo artist in a big city can sometimes feel like looking for a needle in a haystack (sorry). Here’s a tip: head to Tattoo Studio Seek, an Ikebukuro-based shop that’s earned a strong following among Tokyo’s foreign residents and visitors. Resident artist Horisho has over a decade’s experience under his belt and is a master of numerous styles, ranging from Traditional Japanese to Tribal and beyond. He’ll be happy to answer all your questions and work with you to create an entirely new design, so you can rest safe in the knowledge that your new tattoo is a one-of-a-kind piece. Prices are reasonable, and all of the equipment used is disposable to ensure a sterile environment. Note that advance reservations are essential, though the upshot is that you’ll be able to talk with Horisho in complete privacy.
☛ Contact Tattoo Studio Seek in English at 090-3045-7778 or minori@tattooseek.com. For directions to the shop and examples of Horisho’s work, see www.tattooseek.com
Looking to show off some ink on the beach this year? Friendly tattoo artist Yamato Bonten has been creating works of body art since 1998, and welcomes foreign customers at his private Asagaya studio. Whether you’re looking for traditional Japanese irezumi, original designs or your own custom tattoo, Yamato can help. Email ahead to discuss designs and book an appointment; when you arrive you will find safe equipment fully sterilized with an autoclave, and each pack of tattooing needles is opened fresh in front of you. Check out Yamato’s websites for samples of his striking designs, and brace yourself for a colorful summer.
☛ Sessions by appointment only. 1-43 Asagaya-kita, Suginami-ku. Tel 03-5364-9915. Email: mail@irezumi.info. Nearest stn: JR Asagaya. www.yamatobonten.net (Japanese); www.irezumi.info (English)
School’s in
Put on your thinking cap this summer
If you need an innovative study tool to help improve your Japanese skills, look no further than the Global Talker multilingual electronic dictionary from Toko Trading. The company’s current lineup of dictionaries—available in 28 languages and featuring audio pronunciation functions—are already the electronic translators of choice for Japan-based executives. The new Global Talker has been designed specifically with foreigners in mind—it combines English, Japanese and Chinese dictionaries in a single device. Users can listen to over 10,000 everyday speech patterns and 2,000 patterns for travel use in all three languages. There’s also a recording feature that allows you to capture your own voice and compare it to the native pronunciation. Learn even more languages by buying special language cards. As an introductory special, the Global Talker is currently being offered for ¥17,800. Make your study faster, smoother and smarter with the Global Talker.
☛ For an order form see www.toko-trd.com/index_en or call 03-5620-4596. Email: office@toko-trd.com.
Kumon
The Kumon Japanese Language Program was designed to help students become proficient in their communication skills through the use of worksheets that develop vocabulary, kanji, grammar, reading and writing ability. Listening and speaking skills are honed through the use of CDs. Students start at a level suited to their current ability, then proceed at their own pace. Since the learning materials are composed of small units, students can steadily build the foundation of their Japanese ability and advance step-by-step. In three months beginners will learn to read and write hiragana and katakana; within six months, they will have become familiar with over 100 kanji and mastered many expressions useful for everyday life.
The program can be started any time at any of the 900 Kumon-method Japanese schools nationwide. If you are too busy to go to a school, take the correspondence course. As the basis of the program is home study, it enables you to study anytime, anywhere.
Tel: 0120-49-4625. Email: japanese@kumon.co.jp. www.kumon.ne.jp/jpn
Monterey Summer TFL Program at Meiji Gakuin University
Yokohama’s prestigious Meiji Gakuin University has teamed up with California’s Monterey Institute of International Studies to offer a diploma in Teaching Foreign Languages (TFL). The program, offered at Meiji Gakuin University’s Shirokane campus, includes not only a background in theory and research, but a practical component that assigns students to teach under supervision in local schools. The course offers both the teaching and curriculum development skills necessary for working with international organizations and language institutions.
Meiji Gakuin is also starting an all-English university department in 2011. The department will offer a dual degree program that lets students earn two BA degrees, from Meiji Gakuin University and San Francisco State University.
☛ TFL diploma program dates: July 28-August 10. Application Deadline: June 18, 2010.
☛ 1-2-37 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku. Tel: 045-863-2200. Email kokusai@mguad.meijigakuin.ac.jp. Nearest stn: Shirokanedai. http://www.meijigakuin.ac.jp/~kokusai2/.
Shinjuku Heiwa Japanese Language School
Located just a minute’s walk from Ookubo station and ten minutes from Shinjuku station, Shinjuku Heiwa Japanese Language School is right in the middle of all the action. Non-residents looking to spend the season in one of Tokyo’s busiest hubs can take advantage of Shinjuku Heiwa’s summer program, which includes room and board. The very reasonable ¥198,000 monthly fee covers tuition, dormitory accommodation, and two meals a day. But the best part is, Shinjuku Heiwa’s lessons not only teach you the Japanese language, but also immerse you in the country’s culture.
Short-term monthly classes are offered at all levels, from beginner to advanced, and include everything you need for the JLPT exam. Priced at ¥65,000, courses start monthly and classes comprise no more than ten students. Reasonably priced private lessons are also available (¥3,000 / 3 classes), and longer-term programs include a Japanese Immersion Course and a College Preparation Course. Student visas can be arranged. Another nice touch: trial lessons are free, so everyone can experience the spirit of summer in Japanese.
☛ 1-13-14 Hyakunincho, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-6304-0088. Email info@shinjuku-heiwa.com. Nearest stn: Okubo. www.shinjuku-heiwa.com
Smile Club
An English school for kids of various ages and nationalities, Smile Club has a program of activities to capture the imagination of any child. The school, based in Sumiyoshi, encourages children from age 2 to junior high school students to immerse themselves in an international setting and learn English in a fun way, alongside a variety of other topics. Summer courses will be held from July 19 through August 20, with excursions that include a trip to Minakami Onsen in the historic rural town of Sekigahara, Gunma Prefecture, where kids can explore the beauty of nature and Japanese culture.
Smile Club offers weekday preschool and kindergarten courses from 9:30am till 2pm (2:45pm for second- and third-year kindergarten students), and afterschool programs on weekdays and Saturdays. To help kids improve and expand their English, Smile Club also has special classes for students attending nearby international schools. Busy parents can take advantage of bus pickups and drop-offs, which means that everyone’s summer will be a happy one at Smile.
☛ 3F Sumiyoshi Building, 1-17-20 Sumiyoshi, Koto-ku. Tel: 03-3635-8380. Email: smileclub2006@yahoo.co.jp. Preschool Mon-Fri 9:30am-2pm, kindergarten Mon-Fri 9:30am-2:45pm, ESL afternoon classes Mon-Sat 3-6pm. Nearest stn: Sumiyoshi. www.smileclub.jp
We Japanese Language School
As you might guess from its name, We Japanese Language School takes a sociable approach to learning. With an English school in the same building, We holds parties and events that allow students to interact with other professionals in a cross-cultural atmosphere. This practical experience is an essential element in learning to speak like a native.
We’s experienced instructors customize their lessons to suit the learner’s needs and objectives. Tailor-made curricula are enhanced by a range of original materials, and offered as group, private, semi-private and qualification classes. Lessons are available six days a week, either at the sophisticated custom facility in Shibuya or at the location of your choice. Since classes are always student-centered, you can be sure to learn the Japanese that best suits your goals.
☛ 4F Higashi Nihon Building, 1-22-8 Shibuya, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5489-6480. Email info@we-japan.com. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.we-japan.com
Family fun
These local hotspots will enchant visitors of all ages
Anime and manga fans won’t want to miss Miraikan this summer. From June 12 through September 27, the museum (a.k.a. The National Museum of Emerging Science and Innovation) will host an exhibit based on the popular cartoon cat Doraemon, whose magical gadgets like the Takecopter and Invisible Cape are compared with real-world science and technology. The entry fee of ¥1,300 for adults and ¥600 for kids 18 and under includes access to the rest of the museum—a treasure trove of exhibits guaranteed to fascinate and inspire the whole family.
☛ 2-3-6 Aomi, Koto-ku. Tel: 03-3570-9151. Open Wed-Mon 10am-5pm, closed Tue (except July 21-Aug 31). Nearest stn: Telecom Center. www.miraikan.jst.go.jp
Ueno Onshi Park
A day of nature awaits at Ueno Onshi Park, a spacious expanse of greenery located close to bustling Ueno station. Take one of the swan-shaped pedal boats for a cruise on the water lily-strewn pond, or head inside to the three highly regarded museums showcasing both Western and Japanese art. There’s also a concert hall, various shrines and temples, and the world famous Ueno Zoo. This last spot makes for a day out all by itself—the 35-acre menagerie is home to over 2,600 animals of 464 species, and entry is free for the under-13 crowd.
☛ Park: 5-25 Ueno Koen, Taito-ku. Tel: 03-3828-5644. Open daily 5am-11pm. Nearest stn: Ueno. www.tokyo-park.or.jp
☛ Zoo: 9-83 Ueno Koen, Taito-ku. Tel: 03-3828-5171. Open Tue-Sun 9:30am-5pm (last entry 4pm), closed Mon (if a public holiday falls on a Mon, closed Tue). Nearest stn: Ueno. www.tokyo-zoo.net/english/
Music Together
If you’d rather stay inside this summer, why not nurture your little ones’ musical talent? Music Together runs eight-week English-language courses in Roppongi, Kichijoji, Shimokitazawa and Ebisu. Kids ranging from newborns through kindergartners can develop their natural ability for song and rhythm. Though the classes are led by experienced teachers, parents are also encouraged to join in. Check the website for details of the summer session, or to reserve a free trial lesson.
☛ Various locations. Summer session begins July 5 (trial lessons held in June); ¥22,000 for one child, ¥16,000 for extra siblings; includes eight 45-minute sessions. Email: azabu.musictogether@me.com. www.azabumusictogether.com
Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum
So unique is the Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum that acclaimed anime director Hayao Miyazaki made several visits so he could find inspiration for his Oscar-winning film Spirited Away. The outdoor museum features some two dozen relocated or reconstructed historic Tokyo buildings, most of them hailing from the Meiji period. The home of former Prime Minister Takahashi Korekiyo stands alongside prewar shops, a public bath, a farmhouse and a koban. A stroll around the grounds and through the buildings offers a vivid and insightful picture of the past.
☛ 3-7-1 Sakuramachi, Koganei City. Tel: 042-388-3300. Open 9:30am-5:30pm (last entry 5pm), closed Mon (if a public holiday falls on a Mon, closed Tue). Young children free, others ¥200-¥400. Nearest stn: Hana-Koganei or Musashi-Koganei. www.tatemonoen.jp
Cool eats
Enjoy frosty summertime treats at these offbeat Tokyo eateries
Nagasaka Sarashina
With over 200 years of history, Azabu-Juban soba restaurant Nagasaka Sarashina is famed for its white sarashina noodles, made from highly refined buckwheat. The basic mori soba (cold noodles) are served with sweet and spicy dipping sauces that diners can eat separately or blend together, with wasabi and julienned green onions on the side (¥860). The quicker you slurp them down, the cooler you’ll feel.
☛ 1-8-7 Azabu-Juban, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-3585-1676. Open daily 11am-9pm. Nearest stn: Azabu-Juban. www.nagasakasarasina.co.jp
Ice Cream City
For dessert, you might fancy a trip to Ice Cream City (above)—sadly, not an actual metropolis, but part of the Namjatown amusement complex at Ikebukuro’s Sunshine City. Six ice cream parlors offer different takes on dairy delights, from the mysterious charms of gooey Turkish dondurma to a reasonable approximation of Italian gelato, while choosing between curry or sweet potato flavors adds a twist to the otherwise pedestrian soft cone (don’t worry, there’s also vanilla and chocolate). Displays in Japanese explain the history of ice cream, while the Cup Ice Museum sells take-home mini-cups in hundreds of flavors, from sea salt to horseflesh.
☛ 2F Sunshine City, Higashi Ikebukuro 3-chome, Toshima-ku. Tel: 03-5950-0765. Open 10am-10pm daily. Namjatown admission: adults ¥300, kids ¥200. Nearest stn: Ikebukuro. www.namja.jp/ice_cream
Jinnanken
Tucked away on a side street near Marui City department store in Shibuya, Jinnanken is a 10th-floor nightspot with panoramic views. The terrace is decked with comfortable sofas and reclining chairs, and a gigantic Benjamin tree rooted two floors below peeks lavishly through a glass pyramid installed in the roof. Beers are ¥650, wine ¥700, cocktails ¥780 and a large selection of shochu, sake and plum wine starts at ¥550. Ladies, don’t forget to use a little extra hairspray—it gets windy up there.
☛ 9-10F Navi Shibuya, 1-20-5 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5784-4455. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-3am, Sun & hols 6pm-midnight. Nearest stn: Shibuya. www.zetton.jp
Albatross
If Jinnanken’s a bit luxurious for your taste, try the Omoide-Yokocho branch of Albatross. This tiny watering hole near Shinjuku station boasts a legally dubious handmade rooftop seating area that affords daunting views of the neighborhood’s neon nighttime vista. There’s only space for seven or eight people, and you’re advised to watch your balance, but down-and-dirty outdoor partying sessions don’t get much more visceral. Drinks go for around ¥700 a pop.
☛ 1-2-11 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3342-5758. Open daily 5pm-2am. Nearest stn: Shinjuku. www.alba-s.com
Fires in the Sky
The best places to watch things blow up this summer
Nothing says “summer” quite like slipping into a yukata and joining a few hundred thousand people to watch things explode beautifully in the sky. There aren’t many places in the Tokyo area that won’t be mounting a major fireworks display some time between now and the end of August, but here are a few of the seriously big ones.
Jul 24
Chofu Fireworks Festival
Boom factor: 12,000 fireworks. 7:20-8:30pm. Nearest stn: Fuda or Chofu (Keio line). Tel: 042-481-7311.
Jul 29
Adachi Fireworks Festival
Boom Factor: 12,000. 7:30-8:30pm. Nearest stn: Kitasenju (Tsukuba Express) or Kosuge (Tobu Line). Tel: 03-3880-5853.
Jul 31
Sumidagawa River Fireworks Festival
Boom Factor: 20,000. 7:05-8:30pm. Nearest stn: Asakusa (Toei Line) or Kuramae (Toei Line). Tel: 03-5608-6951.
Aug 7
Edogawa-ku Fireworks
Boom Factor: 14,000. 7:15-8:30pm. Nearest stn: Shinozaki (Toei Shinjuku line). Tel: 03-5662-0523.
Aug 7
Itabashi Fireworks Festival
Boom factor: 11,000. From 7pm. Nearest stn: Ukima-Funado (Saikyo line) or Nishidai (Mita line). Tel: 0570-02-9923.
Aug 19
Jingu Gaien Fireworks
Boom Factor: 12,000. 7:30-8:30pm. Nearest stn: Sendagaya or Yoyogi. Tel: 03-3547-0900.
Aug 26
Zushi Beach Fireworks
Boom Factor: 7,000. 7:20-8pm. Nearest stn: Zushi (Yokosuka line). Tel: 046-873-111.
Tip
Although crowds for fireworks and festivals in Tokyo generally do not become unruly, the sheer numbers can give one pause. Make sure you don’t exit the station nearest where the event is located unless you have a return ticket or a pass—many times, the ticket machines will be closed during the return crush. Also, establish a meeting place in advance in case you get separated from your friends. Last, use the restroom before you leave the station—riverside restrooms have long, long lines, and shop owners will not always let you use theirs when a festival is in progress.
The Great Outdoors
Make the most of the season by surfing, frolicking with dolphins… or going to war!
Swimming with Wild Dolphins at Mikurajima
About 200 kilometers south of Tokyo lies the island of Mikurajima, where natural beauty remains unspoiled and swimming with wild dolphins is a part of daily life. The island’s sole village, nestled amid hills and dense forests, contains just 300 residents. In recent years, the island has become a popular ecotourism destination, thanks to the surrounding waters which provide a permanent habitat for some 140 Indian Ocean bottlenose dolphins. Even enthusiasts who have traveled to similar spots the world over rave about the wonders of Mikurajima.
Access is easy, either by overnight ferry direct from Hamamatsucho, or via nearby Miyakejima, a slightly larger island with an airport and regular ferry services. Package tours including three meals, overnight accommodation, dolphin swim, tour of the island and optional snorkeling lesson are available for visitors to both Mikurajima and Miyakejima for ¥26,640 and ¥35,000 respectively (transportation not included). The guides on both tours shoot as much video as possible, and their films have been featured on TV numerous times.
Visitors to Miyakejima stay at an old-fashioned pension; while on Mikurajima, you can experience a traditional Japanese minshuku guest house. If you find yourself pressed for time, a two-day package might be the thing: travel to Miyakejima via overnight ferry, enjoy a morning swim with the dolphins followed by lunch and an afternoon dip in the onsen, then catch an afternoon flight or ferry back (¥16,500, excl. transportation).
Though chances are good that you’ll see some dolphins on your trip, Dolphin Club is extending a special offer to Metropolis readers who sign up for the Miyakejima package tour: a ¥5,000 refund if the captain fails to locate any bottle-nosed friends. And for readers on the Mikurajima tour, you’ll be presented with a free DVD of your experience as a souvenir.
☛ Dolphin Swimming Mikurajima: Tel: 04994-8-2605 or email tamaruto@ceres.ocn.ne.jp. www17.ocn.ne.jp/~tamagide/eindex.html
☛ Dolphin Club Miyakejima: Tel: 04994-6-0996, or email dolphin-club-tag@fork.ocn.ne.jp. www.dolphin-club-miyakejima.com/eindex.html
Easy Surf Kugenuma
Summer is here and nothing is more appropriate than a day at the beach! Easy Surf Kugenuma knows how confusing it can be for a foreigner trying to surf in Japan. As the only foreign-owned surf shop in Shonan, their staff are fully bilingual and ready to get you suited up and in the water.
Even if you’re a first-time surfer, it’s never too late to start. Gentle conditions and easy access from Tokyo make Kugenuma an ideal place to get your feet wet. Easy Surf’s head instructor has almost 40 years of experience riding the waves at Kugenuma beach. A two-hour group lesson for beginners is just ¥5,000 per person, and kids are welcome too. The lesson fee includes surfboard and wetsuit rental, as well as access to clean, modern shower and changing facilities. All you need to bring is your towel and beach sandals. Private lessons are also available by appointment (¥15,000 for 3 hours).
For more experienced surfers with their own equipment, renting one of Easy Surf’s secure, indoor board lockers allows you to forget the hassle of lugging your gear to the beach and back (¥5,000/month for members). The shop is conveniently located just minutes from Kugenuma-Kaigan Station on the Odakyu Line, a short walk from the beach. Surfboard (¥3,000/day) and bicycle rentals (see site for hourly and daily rates) are also available. A wide range of boards, accessories and surf wear is sold in the store, and if you’re looking to trade up, they also buy used boards.
☛ 2-5-18 Kugenuma-Kaigan, Fujisawa-shi, Kanagawa. Tel: 0466-47-9919. Open daily 9am-6pm. Nearest stn: Kugenuma-Kaigan. Check website for more details, including surf reports, in English: www.surfkugenuma.jp/english
Evergreen Outdoor Center
Get out of the city this summer and head for the cool peaks of Japan’s Northern Alps in Hakuba, where majestic mountains rise to 3,000m, clear rivers flow, and blue lakes and alpine trails are ready to explore. This picturesque spot can be easily reached by car, train or bus—all you have to do is get there, and your pace will slow to a mellow mountain lifestyle. Hakuba is also a fantastic canyoning venue, with deep pools for jumping, grand waterfalls to slide and sections where ropes are used to descend.
The guides at the Evergreen Outdoor Center love showing off the beauty of this pristine area, keeping guests safe as well as entertained. Whether it’s a wild day in the local natural water park of Kamoshika Canyon, a relaxed one canoeing or kayaking on Lake Aokiko, some exciting trail-riding on a mountain-bike tour, or a stint at a lakeside summer camp for the kids, Evergreen promises a refreshing and memorable experience.
☛ Kokusai Lodge, 4377 Hokujou, Hakuba, Kita-Azumi, Nagano. Tel: 0261-72-5150. www.evergreen-hakuba.com
War Zone
War: what is it good for? That’s one question you can put to Avi Mazalto, the ex-Israeli Special Forces soldier who runs War Zone. The paintball craze that swept the West in the ’80s and ’90s has only recently cracked Japan, and since Mazalto is an ex-serviceman, you can bet that War Zone is as real as it gets.
Set in a green expanse in Chiba, War Zone offers not only survival games but also barbecue and camping areas, as well as seminars and training sessions based on Israel Defense Forces tactics. But the main draw is of course the 15km2 paintball pitch, where both beginners and pros team up to battle it out with faux M4 rifles that fire harmless balls filled with water-based paint. Duck and cover in bunkers shaped like Humvees, log houses and tanks, brace for the recoil, and clear a path to victory!
☛ Reservations mandatory; players must be over 18. 2348 Moroto, Inzai City, Chiba. Tel: 090-7194-1718. Open 9am-9pm. Games from ¥9,500 per person; barbecue from ¥500, camping space ¥2,000. Nearest stn: Inba Nihonidai (25 minutes’ walk); by car, take the Higashi Kanto Highway from Yotsukaido interchange for 11.6km (parking available). www.war-zone.jp
Party Tokyo-style at the city's best-loved matsuri
Katsushika Shobu Matsuri
Japanese folk dancers parade through the neighborhood near the Horikiri Shobuen Iris Garden on June 13 from 11am-2pm. On June 20, the garden hosts an open-air shamisen concert at 1pm and taiko drum performance at 4pm.
☛ 2-9-1 Horikiri, Katsushika-ku. Nearest stn: Horikiri-Shobuen. http://meturl.com/iris (Japanese)
Gujo Odori
This festival in the Chichibunomiya rugby grounds features the Gujo Odori, a folk dance that originated in Gifu Prefecture and is designated as one of Japan’s National Important Intangible Folk Cultural Assets.
☛ June 19-20. Nearest stn: Gaienmae.
Suijousai-Katashiro-nagashi
This Shinto purification ceremony involves a traditional goza-bune boat carrying paper dolls escorted by a flotilla of other vessels. The procession departs from Yanagibashi Bridge near Asakusa.
☛ July 1, from 10am. Nearest stn: Asakusabashi.
Iriya Asagao Matsuri
Attracting hundreds of vendors and thousands of visitors each year, this annual festival celebrating asagao (morning glories) starts at 5am each morning so flower-lovers can watch the plants bloom.
☛ July 6-8. Nearest stn: Iriya or Uguisudani. www.kimcom.jp/asagao
Hozuki-Ichi at Sensoji
Tokyo’s best-known temple will play host to 800 stalls selling everything from Chinese lantern plants (hozuki) to goldfish to snacks. According to legend, visiting the temple on July 10 is equivalent to repeating the pilgrimage for 46,000 days.
☛ July 9-10. Nearest stn: Asakusa. www.senso-ji.jp
Ueno Natsu Matsuri
This three-week festival includes a variety of events, from stage performances and a parade (July 24) to concerts, ice sculpting and even a yukata photo shoot. Dozens of stalls sell antiques, plants and food.
☛ July 11-Aug 2. Nearest stn: Ueno. http://meturl.com/uenofest
Kagurazaka Matsuri
The highlight of the Kagurazaka Matsuri—one of Tokyo’s best-loved festivals—is the Awa Odori procession, in which groups of traditionally attired dancers parade through the streets.
☛ July 23-24. Nearest stn: Iidabashi. www.kagurazaka.in/matsuri/index.html
Fukagawa Hachiman Matsuri
This “water-throwing festival” is held annually in mid-August near the 400-year-old Tomioka Hachimangu Shrine. Music and martial arts displays culminate in a parade of portable shrines whose bearers are hosed down as they make their way through the main Eitai Dori thoroughfare.
☛ Dates TBA. Nearest stn: Monzen-nakacho. www.tomiokahachimangu.or.jp
Azabu Juban Nouryou Matsuri
This rollicking festival kicks off with a brass band parade, and continues with traditional vaudeville shows and an antique fair. The centerpiece, though, is the international bazaar with products and foods supported by a number of embassies.
☛ Aug 20-22. Nearest stn: Azabu-Juban. www.azabujuban.or.jp
Koenji Awaodori Festival
Tokyo’s premier summer festival celebrates its 54th edition in late August. One million spectators flock to Koenji to cheer on 12,000 dancers making their way through the streets.
☛ Aug 28-29. Nearest stn: Koenji. www.koenji-awaodori.com
VOX POPS
How do you plan to get away from it all this summer?
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Nanako Yamamoto, 21
Student
This summer, my friend and I are going to go on vacation somewhere. We’re tossing up between Korea and Okinawa. If it’s Okinawa, we really want to go to Miyako Island for the snorkeling and jet skiing—and to just lay on the beach all day. But it’ll be fun regardless of where we go, since we’re best friends!
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Chinna Lee, 34
Dog Groomer and Homemaker
It gets so hot and muggy during the summer that I completely lose my appetite—and all my energy with it. To perk myself up, I eat spicy Korean food like yukgaejang (beef soup) or some light samgyetang (chicken and ginseng soup). You’d think that the spices and chili peppers would make you hotter, but they actually help you shake off the sluggishness.
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Iki Arai, 19
Student
I wrapped up my studies and worked hard this year, so I’m planning to play hard over the summer. My friends want to go on a trip, and so far we’ve come up with Kyoto and Wakayama. We’ll go visit the temples and shrines in Kyoto, but we’re also going to go white river rafting on the Hozu River. In Wakayama, we plan to walk the Kumano Kodo and go canoeing on Koza River. Basically, I think we’re just really into river-related activities!
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Takaoki Kimi, 39
Architect
I’m not planning any big excursions this summer. I want to do small “stay-cations” near Tokyo, so maybe I’ll take a few daytrips to Yokohama or just hang out in old-fashioned neighborhoods like Yanaka in Taito-ku. I like the homey atmosphere and the unchanging view of the kawara roofs there—plus, there’s always delicious udon and menchi-katsu!
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Rie Kanehara, 42
Homemaker
This summer, I’m planning to go on vacation with a friend in Nikko. We’re going on a bus tour that’ll take us around sites like Nikko Toshogu Shrine and Kegon Falls, and then we’ll make our way to Kinugawa, where we’ll go down the river by boat. From what we’ve heard, the landscape is incredible! To top it off, afterwards we’re going to relax and de-stress at Kinugawa Onsen.
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Kurumi Yamada, 19
Student
This year, I’m going to camp and practice with my volleyball team at Shirahama beach. It’s definitely going to be hot, and the practice will be intense, but we’ll be in swimsuits and playing a sport we love—all on a beautiful beach—so I can’t really complain!
Compiled by Youmi Park
accessory watch
You don’t need us to tell you that Japanese summers can be brutal. Leave home ill-equipped and you risk ending up a sweaty, sunburned wreck by the end of the day. But are your choices of summer accessories responsible or just plain paranoid? Tote up your score and find out.
☛ Sun block (SPF 15 = 1 point; SPF 30 = 2 points; SPF 50 = 3 points)
☛ Skin whitening cream (3 points)
☛ Parasol (3 points)
☛ Sun hat (2 points)
☛ Sunglasses (1 point)
☛ Sweat towel (1 point)
☛ Pack of “powder sheets” (2 points)
☛ Fan (1 point)
☛ Electric fan (3 points)
☛ Water bottle (1 point)
☛ Bottle cooler (2 points)
☛ Sun visor (2 points)
☛ UV gloves (3 points)
☛ Cooling undergarments (2 points)
If you scored…
3 or under: You’re probably a construction worker. Your skin feels like leather, and people always guess your age wrongly. Probably by at least ten years
4-7: You’re a rugged outdoors type, though not entirely careless
8-13: You’re sensible. Give yourself a pat on the back, and be prepared to laugh smugly when all your friends get skin cancer
13-17: The Victorians were right, weren’t they? Suntans are for plebs
18 or over: You’re actually a vampire. Consider relocating to Antarctica for the duration of the summer
Get out of town
Escape the sweltering city summer at these leisure havens
Highland Resort
Hotel & Spa
Many vacation spots promise “something for everyone,” but at Highland Resort Hotel & Spa, that’s exactly what you get. This popular leisure complex offers easy access to a wide range of activities and attractions, including an amusement park, museum and onsen, as well as fine dining and panoramic views of Mt. Fuji.
Located within walking distance of the hotel is Fujikyu Highland, one of Japan’s premier amusement parks. Among the exciting attractions for both adults and children are a Ferris wheel, haunted houses, and one of the world’s fastest roller coasters—plus lots, lots more. Nearby Fujiyama Onsen offers healing waters that provide a luxuriant escape; the seven types of natural hot springs include a private family bath. Admission to both Fujikyu Highland and Fujiyama Onsen is free for guests of Highland Resort Hotel & Spa.
Also adjacent to the hotel, and directly accessible from it, Fujiyama Museum is dedicated to the rich natural beauty surrounding Japan’s most famous mountain; admission is free to all hotel guests. Adventurous types who want to venture further afield can take a daytrip to nearby Lake Kawaguchiko, which offers all manner of water sports and activities.
If you’d rather not venture outside the hotel grounds, Highland Resort still has plenty to offer. The resort prides itself on the quality of its Western, French, Chinese and Japanese restaurants, with stunning views of Fuji accompanying delicious meals served on fine china.
☛ 5-6-1 Shin-Nishihara, Fujiyoshida, Yamanashi. Tel: 0555-22-1000. www.highlandresort.co.jp/eng
Hyatt Regency Hakone Resort and Spa
The undignified treatment suffered by man’s best friend at most hotels is enough to drive dog owners barking mad. The Hyatt Regency Hakone Resort and Spa, on the other hand, has dog-friendly rooms, equipped with all the facilities you need to keep your four-legged companion happy.
Each special room includes a dog shower and a cage, with amenities that include diaper sheets, brushing spray, natural shampoo, an ion cleaner, sanitary bags and snacks. The rooms are furnished with a vinyl sofa and tiled floor, so there’s no need to worry about your dear pooch making a mess. Deluxe twin rooms start at ¥54,200 (plus tax) for two people and one pet, and suites from ¥108,500.
Hyatt Regency Hakone Resort and Spa also offers a grooming service by dedicated staff members, and even a health check. There’s a bow-wow shower room (dryers and towels provided), and the staff will mind your dog for free during your stay—or even, for a nominal surcharge, before check-in or after check-out. It’s enough to make you forget the hotel also has a humans-only hot spa, or that exploring scenic Hakone is as easy as stepping outside.
☛ 1320 Gora, Hakone-machi, Ashikagashimo-gun, Kanagawa. Tel: 0460-82-2000 (direct), 03-3222-1234 (reservations), 0120-123-420 (toll-free reservations). Email info@hyattregencyhakone.com. www.hyattregencyhakone.com
Nanzan-so
Opened in 1907 in the Izu-Nagaoka onsen region, the traditional Nanzanso hotel boasts guest cottages in the old-fashioned Sukiya style of architecture. It offers three types of hot springs—a rock bath, an open-air bath and a spa with a view of Mt. Fuji. Nanzanso’s unique charms have made it a favorite leisure destination for artists and celebrities over the last century; famous guests have included Nobel Prize-winning writer Yasunari Kawabata and famed American singer/songwriter Rickie Lee Jones.
As a special summertime promotion, the hotel is offering rooms from just ¥5,000 per person. These bargain rates include consumption tax and a complimentary breakfast, and access to the baths is just ¥130 extra.
Nearby attractions include the scenic gondola rides at Katsuragiyama Panorama Park, lovely blooms at Tropicarium Izu orchid park and the seal and dolphin shows at Mito Sea Paradise. Since Izu-Nagaoka is only about 90 minutes from Tokyo by shinkansen and local train, it all adds up to an unbeatable getaway.
☛ 1056 Nagaoka, Izu-no-kuni City, Shizuoka. Tel: 055-948-0601. Nearest stn: Izu-Nagaoka. www.nanzanso.jp/eng
Spending Spree
Pick up the perfect keepsake this summer
Book Off Shirokanedai
Expats in Tokyo all know what a major hassle it can be to get hold of books in our native tongue. They cost a fortune if delivered from home, and even the larger Japanese bookstores rarely stock anything more highbrow than the latest Dan Brown or Harry Potter. So praise Shakespeare’s chin for the Shirokanedai branch of secondhand chain Book Off.
Located close to Shirokanedai station and a short walk from Meguro, Book Off houses an extensive international section, stuffed with over 40,000 titles in English, French, Chinese, Korean and more. There’s a vast range of fiction, nonfiction, children’s books and ESL titles, and prices start from just ¥200.
Book Off Shirokanedai also stocks manga, CDs, DVDs and videogames, and its cafe hosts regular events including live music, art exhibitions, coffee and tea seminars and storytelling for the kids. Don’t miss the special sale June 19-20, when all international books will carry a 20 percent discount.
☛ 4-3-19 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-5475-5696. Open daily 10am-10pm (shop), 8am-8pm (LO cafe). Nearest stn: Shirokanedai. www.bookoff.co.jp
S.A.I. Recycle
Whether you’re moving house, leaving the country, or just looking to streamline your apartment, S.A.I. Recycle can help you out. The recycle shop and disposal service will take unwanted goods off your hands in a jiffy (note: unloved pets and spouses not included). If it’s something with high resale value—think modern consumer electronics, designer furniture, antiques or audio gear—S.A.I. can offer you a competitive price for it. They’ll also cart off other furniture and appliances, either for free (if it’s something they can resell), or at a small cost (for fixer-ups and bona fide junk). Call or email to ask about getting a quotation. Alternatively, just swing by the S.A.I. Works Gallery recycle shop in Shirokane and make a deal on the spot. From cleaning out an office to disposing of a single chair, if you need to get rid of something, you know who to call.
☛ 1-10-7 Shirokane, Minato-ku. Tel: 03-5422-9310, toll-free: 0120-318-420. Nearest stn: Shirokane-Takanawa. http://sai-works.com/en/
Kamata Hakensha and Pro Knife Centre Tokyo
With a history spanning four generations and almost nine decades, Asakusa cutlery maker Kamata Hakensha knows how to slice it. The company’s 800 product lines include top-grade handmade knives as well as factory-made ranges; these blades have made repeat customers of some of the world’s finest chefs, thanks in no small part to stringent quality checks and a 100 percent satisfaction guarantee. All of Kamata Hakensha’s original lines are designed by the owner, made by skilled craftsmen, and individually edged. They also offer an inexpensive engraving and a sharpening service.
Located just a few doors away, the Pro Knife Centre Tokyo is Japan’s sole dedicated distributor of products by Zwilling J.A. Henckels, a cutlery firm founded in Solingen, Germany in 1731. The fruits of Zwilling and Kamata Hakensha’s collaborations can be purchased here, including the Miyabi knife, produced in a 14th-century blade factory in Seki City, Gifu and inspired by the shape and sharpness of Japanese katana swords.
☛ Kamata Hakensha: 2-12-6 Matsugaya, Taito-ku. Tel: 03-3841-4205. Open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm, closed Sun & hols. Nearest stn: Tawaramachi. www.kap-kam.com
☛ Pro Knife Centre Tokyo: 2-12-1 Matsugaya, Taito-ku. Tel: 03-3847-5922. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5:30pm, closed Sun. Nearest stn: Tawaramachi. www.proknifecentretokyo.com
La Mia
Taking its name to heart, handcrafts store La Mia (Italian for “mine”) offers unique clothing, bags, gifts and interior items handmade from gorgeous kimono and obi fabric. The store, situated two minutes on foot from Kamakura station, lives by the motto “only one in the world.” As such, each item is one-of-a-kind, and you can even take your own kimono to be repurposed into something new, based on your own ideas or those of La Mia’s creative staff.
☛ 2F SCENE Kamakura, 1-6-15 Komachi Street, Kamamura, Kanagawa. Tel: 0467-55-8600. Open daily 10am-7pm (except days when the building is closed). Nearest stn: Kamakura. www.scarabee-sacre.com
MBPrints
MBprints is a full-service textile and T-shirt print shop that uses the highest quality inks, garments and equipment to ensure perfect results every time. And better yet, the Nagoya-based company offers service in English, making it a snap for foreigners to order custom tees, hoodies, jackets, polo shirts or bags for your band, society or event.
MBprints’ staff are committed to meeting customers’ needs, no matter what size the job. And since the actual silkscreen printing is done in-house rather than farmed out to a factory, the staff can quickly adjust or modify an order so you get exactly what you want. Orders are delivered to your door, and customers on a budget can check out the company’s special offers online or by phone.
☛ 2-29 Kawasaki-cho, Chikusa-ku, Nagoya. Tel: 052-846-7192. www.mbprints.com
SU Partners Tax Corporation
Whether you’re a regular worker or a business owner, keeping up with your accounts and taxes can be stressful. Providing services that range from basic to complex, SU Partners Tax Corporation helps ease the pain by doing the legwork for you. They look after such basics as bookkeeping, payroll, corporate and individual tax-return preparation, consultation on complicated accounting and tax issues, and tax representation, crunching the numbers so you don’t have to.
On top of that, SU Partners offer an extra layer of corporate services, getting under the skin of your company and creating a business plan, consulting on the financing requirements of the banks, and discussing capital formation and inheritance issues. Other services include international tax and accounting, SPC funds, mergers and acquisitions, business succession, entrepreneur support and more.
☛ 3F Yokohama Kinko-cho Bldg, 6-3 Kinko-cho, Kanagawa-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 0120-91-8826 (toll free). Open Mon-Fri 9:30am-6pm, closed Sat-Sun. Nearest stn: Yokohama (Northeast exit). www.supt.jp/english