Every year, in fact.
In the space of just a few short years, Niseko has evolved from an obscure Japanese ski resort town in southern Hokkaido into a fashionable, laidback and hip mecca for summer outdoor enthusiasts, nature lovers, adrenaline junkies, culture vultures, onsen hoppers and gourmet travelers. Unlike other Japanese resorts, many of which service short-stay Japanese guests, Niseko has attracted a growing contingent of international visitors seeking extended or weeklong holidays—a tribute to its stunning natural beauty as much as its homegrown fusion of Japanese and Western cuisine, architectural splendor and carefree lifestyle, as well as its amazing selection of outdoor leisure activities. While winters are extreme and snow falls almost on a daily basis from December to February, the summers are green and exceptionally mild, making Niseko a perfect vantage point from which to explore the immediate environs and neighboring areas. What’s more, the combined resort areas known collectively as “Niseko” offer every type of accommodation imaginable, from high-end apartments and hotels through to pensions, houses and lodges. All up, Niseko is everything in one place.
An abundance OF discoveries
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In Will Ferguson’s book Hokkaido Highway Blues: Hitchhiking Japan, the journal of a young Canadian chasing the sakura season from one end of the country to the other, readers learn that the northern island is an essential part of Japan’s discovery trail for any Westerner—in terms of its history, geography, culture and people. And really, Hokkaido contains such a breadth and depth of experiences that it could take a lifetime to properly cover it all. For the holiday-maker, the island provides a wonderful excuse to spend a week not being in Tokyo, and Niseko offers an ideal base from which to discover the best of Hokkaido.
Geographically speaking, Niseko is actually a collection of resort villages in and around the foot of Mt. Annupuri, not far from the town of Niseko proper. Many Westerners have recently become familiar with the area thanks to a group of Australian snow enthusiasts who, during the past few years, have transformed it into one of the most popular ski and snowboarding destinations in Asia, rivaling those in North America and Europe.
Ironically, even though Niseko is now best known for its powder snow, the international love affair with the region started with summer. (These days, Niseko doesn’t quite know what part of the year to call the “off-season”!) The Aussies who arrived in the early ’90s were captivated by all the activities that could be enjoyed during the warmer months—and they have not budged since. Their summer whitewater rafting outfits soon expanded to full-fledged adventure businesses, offering kayaking, canyoning and rock climbing, as well as regular competitive events. That handful of pioneers, including “the two Rosses”—Ross Findlay (NAC) and Ross Carty (NOASC)—are still in Niseko, helping visitors enjoy their leisure time through micro-adventures.
The snapshot
Summers in Niseko offer a brilliant array of activities, some aerobic and some, well, not so aerobic. The travelers’ cheat sheet reads: onsen, gastronomy, water sports, hiking, touring (both car and cycle), mountaineering, nature-watching (birds and mammals), golf. In other words, visitors can try their hand at whatever it is they’re searching for, be it indulgence, family activities, adventure, relaxation, natural beauty… or all of the above.
The experience of arriving in Niseko is a bit like when Dorothy says to Toto, “I’ve a feeling we’re not in Kansas any more!” But in this case, you’re certainly not in Tokyo. OK, there’s an international feel to the area, but that’s where the similarity ends. Arriving at latitude 42˚ 48’, travelers find a rural setting devoid of pollution, rush hour crowds, city noise and the troublesome humidity that puts millions of Tokyoites on edge for months on end. Check out any guide to holidaying in Hokkaido, and listed among its Top Ten attractions will be the dry, pleasant climate.
Local tip: Kat
There’s one local izakaya in Kutchan (Torimatsu) where we had seen ostrich carpaccio on the menu. We of course were intrigued and had to try some. The slices came with a mound of chopped leeks, grated ginger, a touch of wasabi and soy. It was delicious—almost like a lean beef. When we asked where the meat came from, the staff said that Niseko has its own ostrich farm! This is definitely worth a look. At the moment, there are about 40 ostriches, but by the end of summer there should be another round of babies. You can stop by the farm and feed them from the packets of seed in the giant letterbox by leaving a small donation. You may even be lucky enough to see the farmer collecting one of the massive freshly laid eggs. Some of these 1.5kg eggs are blown then painted, and make for a great souvenir.
The spiritual focus of Niseko is actually not even in Niseko. Yet it looms large on the horizon and is synonymous with the entire area. Mt. Youtei—sometimes called Ezo Fuji, or “the Mt. Fuji of Hokkaido”—is free of manmade development, rising from the farming plains across the Shiribetsu River and looming, omnipresent, as a kind of totem for all of Hokkaido. It is listed as one of the “100 most famous mountains in Japan,” but surely must be No. 2 behind its iconic counterpart on Honshu. Geologists know it to be an active stratovolcano, although one would have to squint very hard, or let the imagination run, to see any signs of steam. (But anything is possible—the last eruption being about 3,000 years ago!) Youtei is a beautiful, majestic sight for anyone visiting the area, a point of constant orientation and definitely worth the five-hour trek to the top. Just be warned: it is very difficult not to continually photograph! The good news is, the “green” months boast clear skies and are the best time to admire it.
Local tip: Paul
A little-known summer gem of an activity in Niseko is picking wild mulberries. Starting around mid July, the mulberries come into season, and if you know where the wild patches are near the base of Mt. Youtei—sorry, can’t tell you exactly where—then you’re in for a nice juicy treat. Just keep your eyes out for bears… they love mulberries too! Honest. Niseko is a wonderland of wild edible vegetation, ranging from strawberries, blueberries, raspberries and mulberries to a variety of mountain vegetables, including wild mushrooms. It requires a bit of local knowledge as to where to get the best pick, but if you hang out long enough and do enough hiking, you usually end up finding a special berry patch or two.
Niseko is a place where Westerners congregate year-round, so expect to be hosted by Australians, North Americans and Brits, as well as by Japanese who are attuned to the needs of all travelers. In other words, visitors can look forward to the genuine Japanese holiday experience while enjoying a range of “home” comforts. Overall, accommodations are as varied as could be—from Japanese tatami rooms to Western suites, full-service to self-catering, with pensions, hotels, houses and condominiums ranging in price from budget (backpacker) through to über-chic. In this latter category are rooms in the new KiraKira complex, which was designed for local developers by Tokyo’s “it” architects, Klein Dytham.
Short circuit? Or long circuit?
Holidaymakers in Niseko can take advantage of an informal kind of tour known to locals as the “Sapporo Circuit.” Residents from Hokkaido’s nearby capital are known to “whistle-stop” their way through a series of Niseko highlights, indulging in a variety of pleasures along the way. In true Japanese style, this can be done in a day or maybe two. But adventurers could stretch such an excursion out over any number of leisurely days.
True, you don’t have to travel to Hokkaido to find excellent onsen. But those in the Niseko area are among the most charming and bucolic to be found anywhere. Koikawa is one of several hot springs in the area around the base of Mt. Annupuri. Authentically rustic, the snug outdoor bath looks out over a lush forest and a gushing mountain stream. Yukichichibu, on the other hand, is a rambling collection of five outdoor baths, each unique in size and features. There’s plenty of onsen mud—perfect for face or body washes. Also worth a look are the public and private baths within the sumptuous and recently completed Vale condominiums in Hirafu village. Think four-star hotel plus private onsen (natural thermal, of course).
The Milk Kojo below Higashiyama holds the status of “local legend,” as proven by the hordes of Japanese visitors who congregate for ice cream, cream pastries and other dairy-inspired treats. The milk comes from the nearby dairy on Route 343, the main road connecting villages in the Niseko area, and rumor has it their choux pastry creams are unrivalled anywhere in Japan. Who ever said that Asia doesn’t do dairy?!?
Another spot to fuel up before a full day of activity is Graubünden Café in Izumikyo 2. Run by a true Niseko local, Junko Watanabe, the bustling restaurant offers a wide variety of made-from-scratch sandwiches and sweets that are low in sugar. Did anyone say “cheesecake”?
Niseko’s main adventure companies include Saison Club, NAC, NOASC and SAS—each has well-established summer programs for guests. The “to-do” list includes rafting, wakeboarding, hot air ballooning, bike riding, fishing, golf and flora and fauna trekking, as well as a number of indoor cooking and craft activities. One of the Saison Club’s highlights is horse riding. For the uninitiated, the staff provide riding lessons followed by trail riding in the surrounding forest.
Local tip: Craig
After seven years living and working in Tokyo, my wife and I made the move to Niseko. As a New Zealander, the appeal of living in such a pristine natural environment was obvious, but my city-born wife was not so sure. Nevertheless, she has adapted well and we both love Niseko for many reasons, including the clean air, lack of traffic, fresh produce, and good and reasonably priced golf courses. There are many other outdoor activities to enjoy with friends, and the community of like-minded people here live life to the fullest. My wife’s parents, also from Tokyo, retired recently and are making the move up here to enjoy the rest of their years in Niseko.
When the day is done
Of course, after a day of calorie-burning activity, it’s only reasonable to allow for some culinary indulgence to balance things out. Let’s start with Hokkaido’s fresh produce. If your Tokyo life has seen a diminishing intake of fresh vegetables, an early summer visit to Niseko offers a treat in the form of simple, beautiful vegetables like corn, asparagus and humble potatoes. If a dose of red meat is needed, a few servings of the island’s renowned sirloin won’t disappoint. (Who said that Japan’s best beef comes from Kobe?) Off land, three glorious bodies of water—the Pacific Ocean, the Sea of Japan and the Sea of Okhotsk—provide an abundance of world-class seafood. If visitors have never experienced the delights of hairy crab, natural salmon or fresh sea urchin—all of which are caught locally—a trip to Niseko could well be their moment of awakening.
And where to indulge? Ezo Seafoods in Hirafu’s Momiji Street precinct is a wonderful, unassuming spot to enjoy the best of Hokkaido’s sea harvests. Wash them down with some Chablis, and you have an evening you won’t soon forget. Sekka, from the exclusive J-Sekka property group, is one of Niseko’s stalwart luxury venues and a true local “gourmet pioneer.” This sumptuous restaurant offers a beautiful menu born of local Hokkaido produce, complemented by a comprehensive international wine list. It is innovative, modern and memorable.
Joining Sekka at the top end of dining is Kamimura. Headed by Yuichi Kamimura, who worked in Sydney for seven years under legendary chef Tetsuya Wakuda, the restaurant is at the forefront of Japanese fusion cuisine and is famous for degustation menus that take on a special presentation in the summer months. Travelers looking for simple, authentic Japanese food can try Curry Goya, which is one of several spots around Niseko that serve up the wonderful local specialty known as soup curry. As for bars, just pedal the little streets in Hirafu and check out which doors are open or which lights are blazing. Splash and Barumba on Momiji Street stay open late, Paddy McGinty’s serves up draft Guinness, and Abucha offers a good selection of sake and shochu.
Lie of the land
Although the sprawling Niseko region encompasses nearly 200km2, the main resort precincts are clustered around the base of Mt. Annupuri.
On the northern side is Hanazono, the most recent development. So new that much of its infrastructure is still in the planning stages, the resort already boasts an impressive summer program called “Green Season,” to be launched on June 26. With its focus on action sports, nature, golf, fine dining, peace of mind, guided tours and creative arts, Hanazono is a brilliant part of the mountain to explore.
Nearby Hirafu Village is the most established and developed part of Niseko, and home to the greatest number of bars and restaurants in the area. Most of Niseko’s summer accommodations, tour and activity companies are also based in the village, which makes it the default hub for the entire region.
Niseko Village (previously known as Higashiyama) is mostly defined by its Hilton hotel, which represents the classic, international style of accommodation. In addition to a superb onsen and top-class sushi and teppanyaki restaurants, it features a wonderful summer program called Pure. This series of outdoor activities includes tree trekking courses (straddled around one of the three 18-hole golf courses), huge “balloon castles” that kids and adults can romp in, and snag golf.
Annupuri’s southern aspect provides a dose of tranquility. The main strip contains a mix of shops, restaurants and hotels—it’s also near some prime onsen—while Annupuri Village below offers high-end European-style chalet houses that are perfect for groups of 2-12 people to retreat and self-cater in style.
Local tip: Kal
It’s said that Hirafu’s rich natural waters take 160 years to filter down through Mt. Youtei, in the process collecting healing minerals and fertility. For those of us living here in Hirafu, that means sampling any one of the six traditional onsen, all within 1km of each other. We sometimes take it up a luxury notch and try the private onsen that overlook the exquisite Niseko mountain greenery. It’s perfect for couples and families—an aquatic experience that’s hard to forget.
Side day trips
Otaru
Niseko is curiously devoid of the stereotypical tourist attractions that attract the Japan novice—no sumo, no temples, no electronics emporiums. But for travelers who do enjoy a little bit of the traditionally traditional, a daytrip to seaside Otaru might be just the thing. With origins as an Ainu village ca. 400BC, this small city plays host to a stunning collection of attractions unique to Hokkaido. Chief among these is the picturesque canal precinct. Flanked by magnificent old brick warehouses, many of which have been converted into restaurants, this area features Victorian-style streetlamps that provide beautiful illumination during the evening. Being a port city, Otaru has seafood that’s as fresh as can be. Definitely don’t miss the sushi!
Lake Toya
A visit to Lake Toya is enough to remind anyone of the beauty and grandeur of nature. Formed by a volcanic crater, Toya is said to be the northernmost Japanese lake that doesn’t ice over; its waters are also considered to be the second clearest in Japan. (Oh, how the Japanese love their lists!) Either way, Lake Toya has earned its reputation as one of the world’s most beautiful camping spots. It could easily serve as a weeklong holiday destination from anywhere in Japan—or the world, for that matter. But for our purposes, let’s just call it a perfect daytrip spot, only 50 minutes’ drive from Niseko.
Who should go?
Niseko is well-suited to a range of visitors: families, singles, couples, groups, adventurers, hippies, professionals, nature-lovers, youngsters and oldsters and everything in between. Thanks to its unspoiled beauty and diverse lineup of activities, the area has become an attractive destination for travelers from Japan and all over the world. This gives Niseko a distinctly international flavor, and it’s likely that English will be spoken wherever needed. (Useful when your river guide is yelling, “Look out for the rapids ahead!”)
Local tip: Glen
Something that always blows me away here in summer is experiencing dawn from the peak of Mt. Annupuri. From Hirafu, it takes about 30 minutes to drive out to Goshiki onsen, and from that point a great hiking trail works up to the peak. The timing can be a bit tricky, but if you get it right on a clear day, the view is awesome, with Mt. Youtei and the surrounding Annupuri range glowing like you wouldn’t believe. For super fit people, the hike only takes 45 minutes, but for the rest of us, allow an hour or more.
Open for business
A number of Japanese and international hotels are located in and around Niseko, including the Kogen, Alpen and Hilton. All are well established for summer service—a fact that’s evident by the large number of Japanese who retreat to the area for golf and other leisure activities. But in recent years, even businesses that have traditionally been focused on the winter season are becoming all-season holiday and resort destinations. A good percentage of restaurants, cafés and bars are open for summer or all-year trade. And there are a number of significant resorts that are planning developments to accommodate 365-day-a-year service.
The Hanazono resort, for example, is a project encompassing a specialist mountain bike park, golf course and a comprehensive suite of guided summer activities. And down the road, the Capella group has launched its own all-year resort development designed by signature architect Tadao Ando, scheduled to open in summer 2012.
It’s all a bit like Switzerland, but the other way around—the classic European alpine resorts were initially summer retreats, only opening for winter as an oddity for guests to experience the off-season. To be sure, the concept of all-year tourism is gathering such momentum that Niseko will not be recognizable in its current guise in a decade to come. Now is the perfect time to beat the rush and experience the area while all of the rustic, homey, down-to-earth and eclectic attractions remain. Trailblazers welcome!
A note about Niseko in winter
It’s obvious that more than one trip to Niseko is required to get a sense of what this leisure haven is all about. The perfect itinerary would include two trips, at opposite ends of the year. For the snow freaks, here are the vital stats for Niseko: 15m average annual snowfall and powder. That’s it—those are the only numbers that matter. The rest is incidental: the fun, the food, the culture, the abundant varied terrain, the range of accommodation, the services, the access to nearby specialist resorts, the hospitality, the international contingent, the backcountry access, the modest cost of participation, the lack of crowds, the “everything you could possibly want.”
CalendAr highlights
Suttsu Oyster Festival (May 15-16)
Sapporo Yosakoi Soran (street dancing) (June 12-13)
Shakotan Gourmet Festival (June 27)
Kabayama Green Festival (July 3)
NAC Kids Short Summer Camp (July 28-31)
Kutchan Potato Festival (August 7-8)
Niseko Hanazono Hill Climb Race (August 8)
Niseko Cycle Week (September 10-20)
Niseko Tri Camp (September 6-11)
Niki Fruit Harvest Festival (early October)
Getting there
By Air
Chitose is the nearest major airport and hosts regular shuttle coach services to the main Niseko hotels and the official Welcome Center 365 days a year. Transit time in non-winter months is roughly 2 hours. Most flights depart Haneda.
www.japan-guide.com/e/e2365.html
www.japan-guide.com/e/e2364.html (discounts for visitors to Japan)
Trains
If train travel is more your thing, consider one of the overnight services that include sleeper options. Fast trains will take 12 hours from Tokyo and cost roughly ¥15,000. www.japan-guide.com/e/e2361.html
Automobiles
A rental car from the airport is the most common way to obtain wheels around Niseko. But for Tokyoites who really want to bring their own car with them, the drive is doable in about 12 hours (overnight) and around ¥15,000 in tolls and ferry charges (from Aomori). The adventurous can put themselves and their car on a boat from Ooarai for a 20-hour journey that, with its cinema, bar and game room, resembles a nightclub more than a ferry!
General
As a hint, most online tourist guides list transport options into Niseko with the assumption that travelers will have made it to Hokkaido via plane.
www.japan-guide.com/e/e623.html
www.niseko-backpacker.com/niseko/transport.htm
www.hyperdia.com/
More info
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Niseko,_Hokkaido
www.nisekotourism.com/en/
Niseko Promotion Board
This publication has been produced with the kind cooperation of the Niseko Promotion Board.
Cover, feature scenic and lifestyle photography for this feature has been kindly supplied by Glen Claydon Photography (GCP).
www.glenclaydon.com
Gallagher Frostell
This feature was written and produced for Metropolis by James Gallagher and John Frostell. Gallagher Frostell is a communication, branding and advertising consultancy based in Japan and Australia specializing in services to international businesses connected to Japan.
www.gallagherfrostell.com