Photo by Jessica A Page

In recent news, there are reports that this sacred mountain is close to attaining UNESCO World Heritage status, which means there will be many more like-minded hikers from near and afar who also want to achieve the summit at 3776 meters high. Whether you decide to hike during the week, when it’s least crowded, or on the weekend when longer lines are formed for walking stick stamps and it’s bumper-to-bumper as you traverse up the chain railed rocky mountain, you must come prepared.

There’s a Japanese proverb: “Everyone should climb Mount Fuji once; only a fool would climb it twice.”

Photo by Jessica A Page

With more stair-climber time on the books, a lighter backpack, fewer stamps and amazing weather, I made it to the summit in 2012. The day trip began again at 5:30am from the Subaru 5th Station, and trekking all the way up the Yoshidaguchi Trail. The descent felt like a never-ending zig-zag on loose volcanic gravel toward the Fuji-Subaru Line. It really doesn’t get any easier here. Be sure to trim those toe nails prior to your trip and make a mental note that toilets are few and far between on the way down.

With the walking stick to show and a story to tell, climbing Mt. Fuji will always hold a special place in my heart. Now I can contentedly enjoy the breathtaking views of Fuji-san from a distance and say, “I once stood on the top of that mountain!” I hope you get the opportunity to say the same thing, too.

Jessica A Page is a contributor for JapanTourist.jp

The main waterway in Sawara is the Ono River, a small river that stems from the nearby Tone River. This waterway was the key to Sawara’s prosperity during Edo times when sake and culture was easily traded with the capital. At the peak of the sake trade in the 19th century, the local community developed a “better than Edo” attitude due to their booming businesses and cultural trade. Here, over 65 sake breweries flourished, and a wealthy economy was created in the city.

Until the beginning of the 20th century, Sawara continued to grow in all aspects. Merchants and businesses made their home near the Ono River, most notably Tadataka Ino, the first person to accurately map all of Japan, whose house is open for visitors today. River-based commerce dwindled with the emergence of the railroad, and since then, the breweries that once crowded Sawara have dwindled to a single family-run brewery. Rather than trade, the town now thrives on festivals and tourism.

In the waterway district, many stores and restaurants that have operated as family businesses for hundreds of years still sit along the Ono River in their original housing. Women dressed in traditional work-wear pull gondolas to the docks where visitors can take a water excursion beneath the branches of the willow trees as they enjoy the natural surroundings.

Baba Honten brewery

Across from the docks, one of Chiba’s oldest sake breweries, Baba Honten, can be found. During the peak of sake brewing season in the winter, large balls made of cedar branches hang in front of the sake shops to announce to customers that this year’s sake is ready. When the cedar balls are hanging, it’s time to make a reservation and visit one of the breweries for a tour and to taste the freshly squeezed sake. To visit a brewery filled with culture, traditional techniques, and a unique taste, Baba Honten in Sawara’s waterway district is the perfect destination.

From the Ono River, you can see a red brick chimney towering over the clay Edo buildings. Here is where Baba Honten has made sake for nearly three hundred years. The Baba family originally came from Nara Prefecture during the early 1680s to make sake in Sawara, and to this day, a descendant of the original founder operates the company. For fifteen generations, the Baba Honten has used traditional methods of brewing to ensure the quality of its sake. The unique sweet and syrupy taste of their mirin rice vinegar, unmatched by store-bought brands, also should not be missed.

A visit to Chiba is a relaxing getaway from the bustle of Tokyo, where the skyscrapers seem to swallow the crowds. In the open space of Sawara, a romantic feeling from the Edo era can be felt as you take a leisurely boat ride down the river or stop at one of the shops to grab a cup of freshly brewed sake. A tourism center is located near the historic district, with information in Japanese, English and Chinese—so planning your trip is nearly effortless.

Baba Honten

• 614 Sawara, Katori City
• Tel: 0478-52-2227
• Open daily 9am-5pm
• Reservation required

Katori City Commerce and Tourism Section

• Tel: 0478-50-1212 (English)
• www.katorishi.com/en/ (English)

Festival Float Museum

• 3368 Sawara-I, Katori City
• Open Tue-Sun 9am-4pm (8:30pm during the Gion Matsuri), closed Mon (or Tue after hols)
• Fee: Adult ¥400 (group of 15 or more, ¥350 each). JHS or below ¥200 (group of 15 or more, ¥150 each)

Ino Tadataka Museum

• 1722-1 Lee Sawara Katori, Chiba Prefecture
• Tel: 0478-54-1118
• Open daily 9am-4:30pm
• www.city.katori.lg.jp/museum/ (Japanese)

Coming from Niigata back to Yubiso/Minakami the platform is where you would expect it to be; set against a beautiful natural backdrop at the foot of Mount Tanigawa. It is the northbound platform heading across the border into Niigata and towards Echigo Yuzawa that offers a jaw-dropping surprise. It is 70 meters below ground set in part of a 12km tunnel, requiring anyone disembarking there to negotiate 480+ steps back to the surface. There is a reason it is called “Japan’s top station for moles.”

It’s an amazing sight whether you see it from the top or the bottom. The tunnel disappears with a seemingly endless flight of steps. Although a working station, it is a tourist location in its own right with several local hotels running trips to view this impressive work of engineering. Even people riding the train try to hop out to snap the obligatory photo before their journey continues under the Tanigawa range.

Doai station is unmanned and rather run down but there is a steady stream of curious visitors, especially on the weekends. Hikers pass through toting bulging packs to prepare for trekking up one of Japan’s famous 100 peaks with a gruelling 480-step workout.

JR thoughtfully placed a bench halfway up for anyone that needs to catch a breather. Beside the stairs is a strip of rock and rubble that looks as if, in wealthier times, there was an intention to install a massive escalator.

In winter climbers often camp in the waiting room overnight before commencing their climb at daybreak. Back in the ’80s a couple of Aussie ski bums even made Doai station their home for most of the winter, heading up to Tenjindaira everyday to make the most of the backcountry and popping back to Minakami to stock up on supplies and bathe in the onsen.

Suggesting a stop to check out a train station raises eyebrows, but every visitor is blown away by Doai station’s staircase. It is a rare one who doesn’t descend, often regretting it as they slog back up.

Rufus Starbuck is a Niigata-based contributor to JapanTourist.jp

Come January and February, Zao Onsen is completely snowed in. There is no place left that is not covered in lots of snow. Icicles are hanging from the roofs of the houses and even the local shrine is not spared; the red torii gate looks out from under the snow groaning under the snow’s weight.

Streets, passageways, car parks and houses need to be kept clear of snow so that people can pass. The locals are kept busy during winter season for sure.

The only snow-free places outside are those where the hot spring water bubbles to the surface, or where hot steam is vending.

The grim conditions do not deter winter sports enthusiasts though. They come in droves to enjoy skiing and snowboarding at Zao Ski Resort followed by relax time at one of the hot spring baths.

There is more though: Zao boost an attraction that seeks its equal – the Zao Snow Monsters. These monsters even get their own festival – the Zao Snow Monster Festival. It takes place at the first weekend of February each year.

Hello Tirol

What do Zao in Japan and Tirol in Austria have in common? The answer is mountains, lots of them, and masses of snow in winter making for ideal winter sports conditions. Hence the two cities have a “sister city” partnership.

The keen observer will soon find that many accommodations in Zao Onsen have German-sounding names, like Pension Tirol or Hotel Sonne. Or, how about a restaurant called Fressgasse?

Even three of the eight ski schools in Zao are Tirol-themed, at least in their names: Austria, Zao Heim and Zao Freizeit. The Austrians, and other German-speakers, must feel right at home here.

Ski lessons in German are not on offer but you can get instructions in English, or Japanese of course.

Lessons are offered to people of all ages and levels of ability. You can book either group lessons or private lessons and you will even get a certificate.

At a dizzy height, on top of one of the mountains surrounding Zao Onsen, you will find a Toni Sailer memorial. Toni even has a ski course named after him – the Sailer Course. This befits Austria’s most famous alpine ski racer.

If you are after a bit of Tirol in Japan, great family fun or an adventure-backed winter sports weekend only a short Shinkansen ride away from Tokyo, then come to Zao Onsen and Zao Ski Resort.

Alena Eckelmann is the Yamagata Regional Partner for JapanTourist.jp

Photos by Hayashida T.

Twenty minutes by foot from the city center, or a five-minute train ride from Osaka station, Shinno-sai is held annually November 22-23. It’s also known as the Tome-no-matsuri (“The End Festival”), as it’s Osaka’s last hurrah of the calendar year.

Shinno-sai is hosted by the Sukunahikona Shrine that enshrines Shinno, the Chinese god of medicine and Sukunahikona-no-mikoto, the Japanese one. Shinno also means “divine farmer,” referring to the Shinno Emperor’s teachings on agriculture and medicine.

Sukunahikona shrine would be easily missed if not for its torii (gate). Due to its location in the middle of Osaka’s office area, this festival isn’t as big as your typical Japanese festivals. Nonetheless, with the cool fall wind and the row of golden-leaved ginkgo trees on Sakaisuji-street, it’s good for a relaxed, and culture-rich Japanese autumn. With the street in front of the shrine lined with stalls, you can always get something warm to eat while enjoying the festive atmosphere.

Shinno-sai is held along Doshomachi street, famously known as the “medicine town.” Consequently, the business representatives who come to the temple to pray for health and prosperity are usually from the pharmaceutical industry. Even on a non-festive day, commuters will often stop and bow in front of the shrine to pay their quick respects.

A shrine symbol is the tiger amulet, or Hariko-no-Tora. This paper amulet shaped as the large cat is distributed as a keepsake and said to prevent its owner from ill health. This tradition was started in the early 19th century when an epidemic of cholera struck Osaka and those who had the amulets reportedly survived the disease.

While you’re there, drop by the Museum of Medicine just beside the shrine, a small exhibition of medical objects dating back centuries. Though the explanations are only in Japanese, scope out the tools and guess their functions, before returning to the festive street and the healing autumn air.

Want more? See JapanTourist.jp for thousands more pieces on travel in Japan

Photos by Andy Checkley

Bodai-ji temple sits in the shadow of Osore-san, which literally translates to “Fear Mountain.” An ongoing history of volcanic chicanery has left very little legitimate plant life in the basin. Instead, you’ll find black, twisted pumice, with steam boiling out of the ground and lashing across the temple grounds. Some areas look like the moon—others have a bizarre carpet of green, white, red and orange lichen.

Yet hell rests alongside heaven. This grim landscape sits within eight lushly forested mountains, resembling the eight petals of the lotus seating Amidha Butsu in the Western Paradise. Also within is the vivid blue Lake Usori, bordered by white sand—beautiful, but absolutely poisonous to all life due to sulphur and volcanic activity. Apparently, there are even 108 pools of boiling mud to correspond to the 108 worldly desires and their relevant hell… but we didn’t count.

The temple is dedicated to the Boddhisatva Jizo, a gentle, motherly guardian of children, travellers and damned souls, who refrains from Nirvana until all may enter, alleviating the pain of the lost.

Getting to Osorezan can be a headache, but that’s the price you pay for remoteness and isolation. Shukubo—accommodation in temple lodgings—will sting you for ¥12,000, but to best appreciate so unique a site, it’s worth the overnight stay. Quarters are not the harshly ascetic pilgrim’s cell you might be picturing, but a traditional, tastefully decorated and spacious 20-tatami room. Two vegetarian meals are provided, each preceded by prayer. Both were delicious and satisfying even for an athletic 20-something. The temple-stay also grants entry to what is probably the hottest, most sulphurously satisfying onsen you’ll ever visit.

Morning service begins at 6am in the main hall, followed by prayers in the Jizo hall. The more understanding you have of Japanese culture and language, the more the second round of services will affect you, though as Osorezan functions to pray for the souls of dead children, the routines and items of this hall are not difficult to comprehend. Some stories tell themselves and the tales of the Jizo hall are not happy ones.

The Itako-Taisai festival, from July 20-25, exhibits the last of a fading tradition as blind mediums communicate with the souls of the dead. Though this cultural highpoint is the first thing Japanese people will mention if you talk about visiting Osorezan, travelling there during what is the busiest time of the year would rob the experience of a unique isolation. Reading in your lodgings surrounded by calmness could be one of few chances to experience absolute silence in so densely populated a country.

If you are looking for a deeply moving personal experience, an ancient shadow cast by Japan-that-was, an escape from the neon plastic rush, or just a really weird picnicking spot, you can’t do much better.

You couldn’t call Osorezan uplifting or beautiful—but it’s fascinatingly apt as one of the holiest places in a strikingly atheistic country.

NAME

The Royal House

LOCATION

Secret (as promised to the person who shared it with me).

BACKGROUND

This abandoned house is a place full of stories, which has ended up a victim of its own fame.

The house was originally bought by a English gentleman and his Japanese wife, as a present to her mother. The family seems to have had quite a lot of fun there—a happy house it must have been.

My first visit was in 2010, when this haikyo was still newly discovered. During these two years, with the stories spreading further and further, the state of the house has deteriorated incredibly. The house has shouldered too much history alone for too long. Maybe it’s the right time to let natural decay put an end to it all.

ACCESS

In the middle of the woods and the mountains.
A picturesque waterfall can be found in the same area, and it’s
also a fine spot for autumn leaves.

SOURCE

Photos by Jordy Meow and text by Jing Meow.
The Royal House: “華麗なる一族” and
The Royal House: A Journey to the Past on Totoro Times.

NAME

Bungomori Roundhouse

LOCATION

Kyushu.

BACKGROUND

The old Bungomori Roundhouse is now a tourist spot of Bungomori City. It was originally a garage for SL trains including a turntable platform in the middle to direct trains.

Nowadays, the government has nicely arranged an extremely bright lighting effect so that people can see it from afar at night. But with barely anything else in the city, the attraction has not attracted much.

With few people around and scanty protection, this is a highly accessible for the urban explorer.

ACCESS

You will find this haikyo very easily right next to the Bungomori Train Station.

SOURCE

Photos by Jordy Meow and text by Jing Meow.
The Bungomory Roundhouse on Haikyo.org.

NAME

Maya Hotel

LOCATION

Kobe

BACKGROUND

Most people know Maya hotel for its beautiful hexagonal room that bathes in gentle light on a sunny afternoon. Some know it for the airplane tire dropped from the sky, which went through the roof and landed on the patio. And others, only the elite of haikyo adventurers, know Maya for the ghosts which reside there, many still dressed in their waiters’ uniforms.

A steep trail leads to the hotel, which could be hard work on a rainy day or in the burning summer sun.

ACCESS

It is located next to the Maya Ropeway. Look up, you cannot miss it! Then you might have to go for a good long hike, or maybe there is a faster way?

SOURCE

Photos by Jordy Meow and text by Jing Meow.
The Maya Hotel on Haikyo.org.

Photos courtesy of Nikko Tamozawa Imperial Villa Memorial Park

Empress Meisho first built the Tamozawa Villa in 1632 as a place for her relatives to live, connected to the temporary palace in Akasaka (in today’s Tokyo). In 1898, that three-storied section of the detached palace was taken apart and moved to its present-day location in Nikko, where it was enlarged into a new residence built around the same frame in 1899. The Taisho Emperor used it as his summer residence until 1925.

The Showa Emperor Hirohito fled to Tamozawa in 1943 after evacuation during World War II. Bomb shelters were built into the building’s gardens and can still be seen today (from the outside only, as access to the shelters is not permitted). Following the war, the villa fell into disuse and held no consistent official capacity until its restoration and re-opening as a museum in the year 2000.

Today, the complex is a fascinating tribute to Japanese architecture and history. Admittedly, that doesn’t sound like the most exciting way to spend an afternoon, but the displays and explanations have a way of bringing the past to life that are quite intriguing.
Tamozawa is one of the largest wooden buildings in Japan and uses many traditional methods of architecture and structure. A tour reveals the purpose and symbolism of those methods, deconstructing everything from the coffered gotenjo-style ceilings to the wall paintings, tatami and washi walls made of layers of paper. The gabled entrance to the villa was built in the uniquely Japanese karahafu style, a featured design that points back to the palace in Akasaka where the building originated.

The building is crafted around a series of beautiful courtyards. The outer gardens beside and behind it are beautiful and well worth exploring. A wander around will allow you to discover ancient trees and meticulously maintained landscaping. The jewel of the garden is a majestic 300-year-old weeping cherry tree. Positioned outside the Empress’s study, it presumably provided a good point of reflection.
The integration of the building’s layout with the courtyards was designed to promote airflow into the building and through its rooms to keep temperatures down in years before air conditioning. Many rooms are separated by lacquered ranma, wooden transoms that allow the cool air to circulate. Here, these feature designs thought to be modeled after examples in Kyoto’s Imperial Palace.

Each of the more than 100 rooms is also defined by their purpose during the Imperial Family’s stay. Visit the bedrooms of the Empress’s staff as well as the waiting room where nervous guests awaited their audience with the Emperor. Note the Western touches combined with traditional Japanese features in the dining room for distinguished guests, and see the pocketless billiard table used by notable historic figures to play a game called yotsudama (“four ball”).

The Tamozawa Imperial Villa is well equipped for non-Japanese-speaking visitors and—unusually for museums in this country—displays all information in several languages, including the introductory video at the entrance. The quality of the English is excellent.

As far as tourist attractions go, the Tamozawa Imperial Villa remains greatly overshadowed by the shrines, temples, and onsen of Nikko, the main draws of a region attracting over 3,000,000 visitors per year. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, the area contains some 100 buildings and structures belonging to Buddhist temple Rinno-ji and Shinto shrines Futarasan and Tosho-gu—the latter featuring a carving of the world-famous three wise monkeys who speak, hear, and see no evil. Set within the forests and mountains, Nikko is an historic and natural wonder that belongs among the must-see locations in Japan.

It’s easy to see why the Imperial Family chose the area as a holiday destination. Though we might have trouble finding accommodation as luxurious as the Tamozawa Villa, it remains a choice spot to cool off during the summer months.

inside information

Todd Wojnowski

Looking for other sights to see around Nikko? Put these on your travel itinerary.

GOOD FOR YUBA
Nikko’s local delicacy is yuba, the thin skin that forms on the top of heated soy milk. Originally gaining popularity here as a dish to satisfy the vegetarian monks at the shrines and temples, yuba dishes can be found in restaurants citywide in a wide variety of forms. You’ll find yuba as a topping for soba, deep-fried yuba, yuba curry, yuba with jelly, yuba soup, yuba sushi, yuba ramen, yuba gyoza, and fresh, unprocessed (nama) yuba. It’s when the convenience stores start selling yuba cola that we’ll know things have gone too far.

INTO THE ABYSS
The Kanmangafuchi Abyss is a neat little gorge tucked within a twist of the Daiya River. The scenic riverside trail leads to the Bake Jizo, a line of 70 red-clad stone statues of Jizo, a Buddhist figure who cares for the deceased. The statues are rumored to change in number each time you count them. There’s some great natural beauty here as well, but bottomless pit seekers will be disappointed at the area’s misleading name.

FALLING FOR NIKKO
Just up the road from the Tamozawa Imperial Villa is the Nikko Botanical Gardens, a 105,000m2 patch of natural beauty typically free of the tourist crowds of other Nikko attractions. The University of Tokyo studies and maintains the 2,200 species of plant life here, which are set against a mountainous backdrop and are most beautiful set with the fall colors.

ICE A FEW BUCKS
If you’re visiting in autumn or winter, see the pucks fly and the gloves drop with the HC Nikko Ice Bucks. This professional ice hockey team gets die-hard support from the locals in the way only small-town teams can. The Ice Bucks compete against other teams from Japan, China and Korea in Asia League Ice Hockey. The Nikko Kirifuri Ice Arena hosts a little under 2,000 punters (including a standing-only section for spectators on a budget) and really gets rockin’ on game days.

CHASING WATERFALLS
Take a bus from Nikko to nearby Chuzenjiko Onsen, a quaint resort town built in the mountains above Nikko and on the shore of Lake Chuzenji. Its breathtaking scenery makes it well worth exploring for an afternoon. Visit the stunning Kegon Waterfall, Chuzenji Temple (pictured, above) take a sightseeing boat ride on the lake, or hike around the numerous walking paths. As the name suggests, there are many hot springs to be enjoyed as well.

trip tips

Take the Tobu Nikko Line from Asakusa to Nikko. Certain trains run nonstop to Nikko in the morning and to Asakusa in the afternoon. Alternatively, the JR Nikko Line directly connects Nikko from Utsunomiya, which can be reached from Ueno by either the JR Utsunomiya Line or Tohoku Shinkansen.

NAME

The Doctor’s Shack

LOCATION

Nagoya.

BACKGROUND

Many haikyo photographers rank this as one of their favorite spots. It is one of those typical Japanese wooden clinics, abandoned in a little wood, next to a half-abandoned looking shrine with a pleasant river that runs at the foot of it. When we paid our visit, it was summer and the mosquitoes attacked us crazily. But the whole ambiance was so peaceful that we simply could not stop pressing the shutter. There was a big display full of brown glass medicine bottles that got us very excited. The second floor was, unfortunately, too destroyed to approach.

ACCESS

This location is secret. All we can say is that it is very close to a shrine and a beautiful river.

SOURCE

Photos by Jordy Meow and text by Jing Meow.
The Doctor’s Shack on Haikyo.org.

NAME

Gunkanjima, Hashima Island

LOCATION

Nagasaki (Kyushu).

BACKGROUND

Hashima Island has two nicknames: Gunkanjima (Battleship Island) and Prison Island. The first nickname is because of its haunted battleship looking appearance. Among explorers this nickname has become much more popular than its original name.

The second nickname, Prison Island, references the severe working conditions on the island when it was a major coal mining facility during Japan’s industrialization, as well as the forcible use of Korean workers during World War II. The population on Hashima Island peaked in 1959 at 5,259, with a population density of 835 people per hectare. At the same time, the demand for coal was rapidly decreasing and in 1974, the whole island was abandoned.

Walking among the buildings, the huge concrete apartment blocks—the first-ever built in Japan—are tall and futuristic. Stairways which connected the buildings hang in the air, and the whole construction is so complicated that you always end up somewhere unexpected.

Unfortunately, nowadays the only way to get on Gunkanjima is through the official tour. And for safety reasons, you can only have a remote peek of the buildings from the outside.

ACCESS

Nagasaki. From Tokyo, seven and a half hours by train (¥25,000) to Nagasaki. Tour boats can be found at Nagasaki Port, which cost ¥4,000. Advance booking is recommended.

SOURCE

Photos and text by Jordy Meow.
The Gunkanjima Odyssey on Totoro Times.
Gunkanjima on Haikyo.org.

NAME

Seika Dormitory

LOCATION

Tokyo.

BACKGROUND

If you assume haikyo are always in the deep mountains, you will be surprised to read about this Seika Dormitory (精華寮) in the middle of Tokyo. It was looking quite ruined after the whole place caught on fire a couple of years ago. The amount of personal belongings left inside is so impressively large that you can reconstruct every single tenant’s life and make a novel out of it easily. My favorite is probably the composer, who left behind his piano and all his music notes. This place is also famous for its resemblance of Block 65 of Gunkanjima.

ACCESS

This haikyo is a bit secret, but it is located somewhere in central Tokyo, and therefore not very difficult to find.

SOURCE

Photos by Jordy Meow and text by Jing Meow.
The Seika Dormitory on Haikyo.org.

NAME

Kuroshio Inn

LOCATION

Awaji Island.

BACKGROUND

This haikyo is located on a beautiful island in Shigoku. A short hike on an abandoned hill was required to reach this place. On the way, you are very likely to encounter wild boars, deers, cats and all sorts animals. Once you have finally reached the abandoned hotel, you are rewarded with a wonderful view of the sea and a nice breeze. The photo spot of this place is the restaurant downstairs, with colourful lights and armchairs.

ACCESS

At the top of some little mountain, on the East side of the Awaji Island. Look up, and you will find it.

SOURCE

Photos by Jordy Meow and text by Jing Meow.
Kuroshio Inn Haikyo on Haikyo.org.

Porch view from Hoshisuna restaurant

Iriomote onsen

DO

Iriomote’s number-one activity is a trip up the Urauchi River, Okinawa’s longest, where mangroves and an abundance of lush greenery thrive. Canoes and kayaks can be rented for a more independent journey, and a trek to two waterfalls awaits after the cruise. The second, Kanbire Falls, allows close enough access for swimming. More serious trekkers can continue on for an 18km demanding hike traversing the island.

Package tours can be booked through most hotels for around ¥8,000, but it’s also possible (and cheaper) to turn up at the dock, book your spot on the boat for ¥1,800 and navigate the hike on your own. There are seven boats daily on the hour, starting at 9:30am.

Sunbathing on its varied beaches is another choice pursuit on Iriomote. Hoshisuna is fantastic for snorkeling, and gear can be rented at the store above the beach for ¥1,575 a day. Haemida is a lengthy stretch of sand about 4km west of the last bus stop, Toyara. The only other living creatures you’re likely to find there are a million hermit crabs and a few goats.

For a different kind of bathing, Painumaya Resort is home to Japan’s southernmost and westernmost onsen. Day use runs ¥1,500, which includes three mixed-gender heated outdoor pools (one other, the largest, is out of service indefinitely), a swimming pool, and both indoor and outdoor baths in segregated women’s and men’s areas. All are situated amid a dramatic jungle background beside the river. The resort has a casual café and nice restaurant where you can order craft beers from Ishigakijima.

INDULGE

Other than the Ishigaki beers (the weizen gets top marks, even by German standards), Iriomote has some excellent homegrown pineapple and brown sugar. The former is sold at unmanned stands for ¥100 throughout the island. The tasty brown sugar makes its way into ice cream, yogurt toppings, shaved ice, and just about anything else that can be sweetened. Iriomote beef, though no wagyu or Kobe, is also nice to try. Restaurants near your lodging are usually willing to do pickups for dinner service.

STAY

Accommodation centers around the island’s two main ports. To the north, the area west of Uehara is the most convenient because of its proximity to popular attractions. Hoshisuna Pension rents basic rooms above the beach from ¥5,500 per person and offers sunrise and sunset yoga for guests. La Teada has sea-facing rooms on the southern end of the island west of Ohara port and charges around ¥11,000 per spacious room. They rent bicycles too—a perfect way to reach Haemida beach.

Last, several campsites provide cheap or free lodging. Hoshisuna offers grassy space behind the pension for ¥300 per camper and has tents for rent. There’s also a free campground behind Haemida with showers and a large, covered cooking area.

GET AROUND

Other than renting a car or scooter, the main transportation on the island is one bus that runs both ways along the island’s main road just four times a day. If you plan ahead, it serves the purpose and will drop you everywhere you want to go. On our trip the friendly bus driver even made special stops to highlight wildlife and his favorite pineapple stand! Most accommodations have their own vehicles and are happy to take you to/from the port.

access

Both ANA and JAL fly to Ishigaki, often through Naha. From there it’s a 40-minute ferry ride to either port on the island. Tokyo Travelpal (www.tokyotravelpal.com) offers package deals at fair prices.

NAME

Shiraishi Mine

LOCATION

Mie Prefecture.

BACKGROUND

Shiraishi is a haikyo that definitely worth more than 1 visits. Especially if you read carefully through its history and observe closely its structure and design. But even by just looking at the appearance of it, you will not be disappointed; the mine from far away looks quite impressive being completely covered by vegetation, just like the places appear in your nightmare. But if you step inside, you will be taken into a heavenly dream where everything is purely white. If you are interested in more than just the appearance, check with the name “Shiraishi Industry Kuwana Factory” to get a better understanding of this haikyo.

ACCESS

Somewhere in the middle of Mie Prefecture. It is not very hard to find as it is a well known mine.

SOURCE

Photos by Jordy Meow and text by Jing Meow.
Shiraishi Mine: An Endless Discovery on Totoro Times.

NAME

Nara Dreamland

LOCATION

Nara

BACKGROUND

Nara dreamland is a famous haikyo for all the urban explorers in the world. After all, not many amusement parks of this size are abandoned with everything inside. And of course as a result it is heavily guarded, if you get caught, be prepared for the 100,000 JPY fine. The best attraction of Nara dreamland is the wooden roller coaster ‘Aska’. It was the biggest wooden roller coaster in Japan. The real fun for this kind of roller coaster is the vibration and the sound when you are on it. Even after its being abandoned, Aska remains the most popular destination for all ‘visitors’.

ACCESS

An abandoned attraction park around Nara? It seems that is very easy to find.

SOURCE

Photos by Jordy Meow and text by Jing Meow.
Nara Dreamland on Totoro Times.

NAME

Namezawa School

LOCATION

Yamanashi Prefecture.

BACKGROUND

Namezawa School was one of our favorite destinations. It was next to a bamboo forest and a beautiful valley. The school is typically abandoned when the village around became uninhabited. The unusual part of this school is that the inside of it was so not abandoned, as if the students simply went away for a long summer holiday. Just as we were planning another visit to this lovely wooden school, it simply disappeared, as if it has never been there before. Some says the school has been ‘relocated’…Let me know if you come across it somewhere else.

ACCESS

Used to be in Yamanashi Prefecture, near Mt. Fuji. Has been probably moved to a new location by its previous (now really old) students.

SOURCE

Photos by Jordy Meow and text by Jing Meow.
Namezawa School on Haikyo.

Settlement along the Kohechi trail. Photos by Alena Eckelmann

Trails

The Kii mountain range’s sacred sites and routes received UNESCO World Heritage status in 2004. The Kumano Kodo, a network of ancient pilgrimage trails, connects these sites. The shortest, best accessible and thus most popular trail is the Nakahechi course. Walking its most popular 40km section takes two days, but it is also possible to walk only parts in half a day or in one day. The Kohechi course is rather remote and the 70km trail takes four days to traverse. Some stretches of the Ohechi course offer views of the ocean and are popular with day trippers.

Centuries ago parts of these trails were paved with stones to avoid erosion by the elements and apparently to ease the pilgrims’ journey. However, after climbing countless stone steps one is forgiven for wondering whether the real purpose was not to test the pilgrims’ spirit and endurance.

Shrines

Kumano Sanzan is the collective name given to the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano: Hongu Taisha, Nachi Taisha and Hayatama Taisha. The focal point of the Kumano Kodo trails, they are the key destinations for pilgrims and hikers alike.
Hongu Taisha was originally set on Oyunohara, a sandbank at the confluence of two rivers. It was relocated to higher ground after a devastating flood in the last century but a massive torii—the world’s largest—marks the original site. It is an impressive sight even from afar.

Nachi Falls near Nachi Taisha is one of the tallest waterfalls in Japan. Under its thunderous veil of water ascetics of old were said to have practiced cold water purification. Nowadays, purification is more likely to come from above: Kumano is famous for its copious rainfall.

If walking for long hours sounds daunting, there are other options. You can take the local bus from Hongu Taisha to Hosshinmon-oji and walk the Nakahechi trail back. This course is roughly 7km and will take 2.5 hours. You can also rent a 24-inch, battery-assisted bicycle at the Kumano Hongu Heritage Center near Hongu Taisha (¥1,500 per day). There are several recommended routes and maps available upon rental.

Onsen

Tsuboyu in Yunomine Onsen

Sustainable Tourism

Though immensely popular, Japan is not considered a leader in sustainability. The Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau (www.tb-kumano.jp/en) however, works with local partners to develop grassroots tourism in the Kumano area, targeted at preserving the cultural and spiritual heritage of the region. TCKTB has been shortlisted as finalist at this year’s Tourism for Tomorrow Awards, an initiative by the World Travel and Tourism Council (WTTC). This award recognizes best practice in sustainable tourism around the world. Travelers can benefit from the varied info on the TCKTB website, as well as from their travel agency services that provide detailed English advice on planning your trip.

Inside Information

While Kumano’s Three Grand Shrines tend to get all the attention, the Kumano Kodo trails lead to other intriguing spots rarely visited by foreign tourists.

Rock Gods

Above the cityscape of Shingu rises a cliff; and at its crown is a massive boulder. This is Gotobiki Rock, a sacred object of worship. Head up to the summit to find Kamikura Shrine, one of the oldest holy spots in Kumano, pre-dating Kumano Sanzan. The shrine grounds are atmospheric, offering excellent views over Shingu and the Pacific Ocean—if you make it. It is only reached after climbing some 500 stone steps irregular in shape and size… No shortcut for lazy pilgrims here.

Trial By Fire

A date to mark in your calander is February, for Shingu’s Oto Matsuri—one of Japan’s most prominent fire festivals. Men dress up as pilgrims, purify themselves, and climb up the stone steps after sunset. Hundreds gather atop the mountain, and upon signal race down the steps at breakneck speed while carrying flaming torches. Some fathers even carry their toddler sons on their shoulders.

Finding Aikido

Aikido aficionados will have heard of Tanabe, another gateway to the trails. The second biggest city in Wakayama Prefecture is the birthplace of Morihei Ueshiba (1883-1969), founder of this Japanese martial art. Tanabe is proud of its martial arts heritage and the “Machi-Navi” audio guide will help you find, among other spots, Ueshiba’s birthplace and grave. Stop by at Tanabe’s Ogigahama beach—a great spot for a summer swim.

plenty more fish

After walking the Kumano Kodo to the Nachi Fall, catch a bus to Kii Katsura on the coast. Besides the numerous onsen in scenic settings, the town hosts an early morning fish market with a tuna auction, guaranteed to be less crowded than the one at Tsukiji Market.

No Cove

If you’re not keen on dining on dolphin or whale, you’d better stick to tuna in this region. The annual hunts at Taiji, a small town near Kii Katsura, are infamous and regularly attract protests. To steer clear altogether, focus on Wakayama’s famous umeboshi, renowned throughout the country. A box of the local pickled plums makes a great omiyage for back home.

Nathan Palmer

The thick wheat-flour noodles, known in China as wudong, were brought over to Japan in the ninth century by Buddhist monks, and reportedly first eaten in Sanuki, the former name of today’s Kagawa Prefecture, of which Takamatsu is the capital.

I first heard of the biggest city in Shikoku via Haruki Murakami’s Kafka on the Shore, where the main character, Kafka, is mysteriously drawn to Takamatsu from Tokyo, crossing the Great Seto Bridge from Honshu by bus. A 1955 ferry disaster in which 171 lives were lost prompted the epic ten-year construction project of this 13-kilometer bridge, which is the longest double-deck bridge in the world. The 20-minute train ride across it almost justifies the trip in itself. The bridge offers panoramic views over the Seto Naikai (Seto Inland Sea), dotted with islands covered with olive trees that thrive in the Mediterranean-like climate.

Finding a Sanuki udon shop in Takamatsu is about as hard as finding a cake shop in Ginza. Because the weather was warm, we ate our noodles cold on a zaru, or shallow bamboo basket, dipping them in a cold soy-sauce based soup—more diluted in the west country than back east in Kanto.

Common toppings include tempura, sliced negi, or sweetened, fried tofu skins in the case of kitsune (fox) udon—so named because it’s supposedly a favorite of the Shinto fox deity. After a diet of pre-cooked, mushy supermarket udon, eating real homemade Sanuki udon is a revelation. They are ridiculously long, thick, springy and delectably chewy.

However, there’s more to Takamatsu than noodles, such as the famous Edo-era Ritsurin Koen (Chestnut Grove Gardens). Owing to its proximity to Honshu, Takamatsu became a prosperous trading center and castle city during feudal times. Lord and shipping magnate Ikoma Takatoshi used his wealth to begin construction of the garden in 1625, and work wasn’t completed until 1745—after over more than a century of improvements by successive lords.

In the ancient Chinese tradition of borrowed scenery, the heavily wooded surrounding hills and mountains provide a tranquil, natural backdrop to the spacious gardens, a complete circuit of which takes several hours. The gardens are home to various wood workshops producing, and selling, finely crafted bowls, carvings and kitchen utensils.

At the center of the garden is a teahouse, located in a pond filled with the biggest and most ferociously greedy carp I have ever seen. Watching them wolf down their breadcrumbs I couldn’t help remembering the faces of the maniac Kansai day-trippers slurping down their Sanuki udon with the same—almost religious—fervor. After trying Sanuki udon for myself I could understand their dedication.