Metropolis

Photo by Matt Durrant

We won’t say a trip to Rikugien is like stepping back in time. True, the young couples promenading in kimono complement the gentle hills, neatly-clipped keyaki trees and mirror-still lake of this Edo-period garden. The concrete towers of Bunkyo-ku, however, do not.

Nevertheless, there’s a meticulously crafted beauty here, made all the more delightful by the park’s inner city location. Completed in 1702, Rikugien’s design stems from the tenets of waka poetry. Take an hour to explore the trails and you’ll come across dozens of picture-perfect vistas, each inspired by a scene from Japanese poetry, and which are best contemplated from one of the cosy teahouses scattered around the garden.

It’s a varied walk: from a green dotted with trees, the path wanders into a forest grove, with carefully-placed stepping stones downstream from a miniature waterfall. A hike up to Fujishiro Pass leads to a clearing with a view of the entire grounds in all their tranquil beauty, from gently arching bridges to moss-covered stone lanterns. The central pond—home to carp, turtles and a few ducks—forms both the focal point and a backdrop to the experience.

From Komagome north exit, turn left, head south across the bridge and along Hongo Dori for five minutes. Turn right at the Sunkus, and the park entrance is on your right after a short distance.

6-16-3 Hon-komagome, Bunkyo-ku. Tel: 03-3941-2222. Open daily 9am-5pm, entry ¥300. Nearest stn: Komagome.