Metropolis

Photos by Jennifer Baljko

There are a million great things to see in Paris.

One of the nicest ways to see the sights, especially after savoring decadent pastries or sipping a fine Bordeaux, is on a nice long walking tour. Paris is a city meant to be seen on foot, and every neighborhood brings something different to the metropolitan experience.

With a good map, a sense of adventure and some comfy shoes, Paris is perhaps the most walkable of the world’s big cities. You can combine sightseeing with leisurely sunset strolls along the river quay, or do a more vigorous hike up Montmartre hill.

Depending on how much time you have in the city and what captures your interest, it’s easy to divide up the visit geographically by neighborhoods, by theme, or by whichever way the wind takes you. However you go, though, make sure you build in extra time to people-watch at the sidewalk cafés and huddle among the masses trying to get a glimpse of the must-see tourist attractions.

One of the classic loops, bringing together a healthy dose of art, history, shopping, river views and open green spaces, starts and finishes at the Louvre. Originally constructed as a fortress and rebuilt as a palace, the museum draws 6 million visitors annually. It could take weeks, if not months, to appreciate the full breadth of the Louvre’s 35,000 works of art—but many visitors take the short tour, snapping shots of the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo and Winged Victory of Samothrace.

When you’ve had your fill, catch your breath in the Jardins des Tuileries, a wide-open promenade leading from the Louvre to Place de la Concorde, where you’ll find a 3,300-year-old obelisk from Luxor, Egypt. Keep going straight down the Champs-Élysées and get a whiff of the fashion scene Paris is renowned for. Pass through the Arc de Triomphe, commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 and one of the city’s best-known landmarks, and wind your way down to the River Seine. Stroll along the water back towards the Louvre, watching the boats float by, and don’t miss the sunset at Pont-Neuf, Paris’ oldest bridge.

A very different excursion takes you around the Left Bank. Kick off the day at Notre Dame Cathedral, a stunning specimen of Gothic architecture—though the prayer-card souvenir vending machines give it a bit of a kitsch tourist feel. Buy a ticket and ascend the spiral staircase in the North Tower. The views from the top are breathtaking, and you’ll get an up-close look at the chimeras—the mythical and sometimes grotesque figures decorating the tower’s edge.

Amble along the Seine again, stopping if you like (that’s the beauty of a self-guided tour, after all) at the Musée d’Orsay to appreciate the work of Cézanne, Manet, Monet, Renoir and Van Gogh. Follow the river’s bend until you get to the Eiffel Tower. You can walk up to the second level, and then catch an elevator to the top, or if you’re feet are understandably aching, an elevator can take you straight up.

Afterwards, wander inland towards the Jardin du Luxembourg. This is a locals’ hang-out during warm afternoons, with older men battling over a chess set and younger folks dawdling on the green or around the fountains. Finish the day in the lively Latin Quarter, which has a student, bohemian and literary feel to it.

Once your legs are accustomed to urban trekking, tackle Montmartre, the highest hill in the city, with the white-domed Sacré Couer Basilica at its peak. The neighborhoods around here have a more small-town flavor, with cobblestone streets and Place du Tertre, where artists’ recreate the basilica on their canvases. It’s also one of Paris’ more diverse districts, so if you’re hankering for ethnic cuisine, you’ll do well here. Not far away is the Dalí Museum and the infamous Moulin Rouge cabaret club, with its neon lights and faux windmill.

Once you’ve got the hang of it, you’ll be itching for another out and back around the Paris you want most to discover.

Air France (www.airfrance.co.jp) has daily direct flights direct from Narita to Paris. There’s no shortage of accommodations once you arrive, and the Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau website (http://en.parisinfo.com) is a good place to orient yourself before you head off. Under the “Maps & Transport” link, you’ll find an overview of the city’s neighborhoods, which should provide you with some ideas for creating your own walking tour. If you prefer guided tours, Classic Walks (www.classicwalksparis.com) has a variety of walks centered around the main sites. Tours are in English and vary in length and price. For an insider’s view, the Paris Greeter (www.parisgreeter.org) is worth checking out. Local Parisian volunteers take individuals or groups of up to six people on a free tour (2-3hrs) of their favorite places. Tour requests must be made a few weeks in advance. For information, email info@parisgreeter.com.

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