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Tokyo is a shopper’s heaven, and perhaps nowhere more so than in this trendy enclave outside of Shibuya. The Ebisu-Daikanyama-Hiroo area is home to a dense concentration of high-class boutiques, funky vintage stores, hip patisserie and, of course, the people who frequent them. It’s also a haven for avant-garde architecture and alternative lifestyles, thanks to its leafy streets and free spirits. To the southeast, Shinagawa is an up-and-coming business district packed with commuters and high-rise office towers.
•fashion
A.P.C.
Cool, smart basics in subdued coloring for women (this store) and men (around the corner). 11-9 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5459-6505. Open daily 11am-8pm. Nearest stn: Daikanyama.
Beams-T
The second-coolest T-shirt shop on the planet (after the sister branch in Harajuku). 2F 19-6 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5428-5952. Open daily 11am-8pm. Nearest stn: Daikanyama.
Maison Martin Margiela
Converted factory houses Tokyo’s main retail outlet of the French fashion designer. Follow the footsteps, enter through the loading dock, and change in the old utility elevator. 2-8-13 Ebisu-Minami, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5725-2414. Open Mon-Fri noon-8pm, Sat, Sun & hols 11am-8pm. www.martinmargiela.co.jp
Evisu Tailor
The home of the now globally desirous denim brand sells all things Evisu (in Ebisu, geddit?). Kami-Meguro, 1-1-5 Meguro-ku. Tel: 03-3710-1999. Open daily noon-8pm. Nearest stn: Daikanyama.
Q Flagship
An impressive selection of fashion labels and one very cool fireplace. 1-30-10 Ebisu Nishi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5456-9117. Open daily 12-8pm. Nearest stn: Ebisu or Daikanyama.
•Fashion & Lifestyle
Stitch
A large lifestyle store selling '50s-inspired furniture, casual clothing and a range of cute creatures called "Baboo’s" with big teeth. 11-8 Sarugakucho. Tel: 03-6415-6622. Open daily 11am-8pm. Nearest stn: Daikanyama.
•music
Bonjour Records
A boutique record store specializing in dance and ambient tunes with a minimal but eclectic selection of vinyl, CDs and magazines. 24-1 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5458-6020. Open daily 11am-8pm. Nearest stn: Daikanyama.
•shopping center
Daikanyama Address
The area’s classiest shopping district has lots of brand names but not much charm. 29-1 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku. Hours vary among stores. Nearest stn: Daikanyama.
•toyS
D-Forme
A comprehensive shop selling all sorts of this and thats and bits and bobs from peanut butter makers to kitchen noise simulators. Weird and wonderful. 2F Mode Cosmos Bldg, 28-10 Sarugakucho, Shibuya. Open daily 11am-8pm. Tel: 03-3461-2552. Nearest stn: Daikanyama. www.d-forme.com
japanese
•IZAKAYA
Ebisu
Shuka
Specializing in both cold-weather comfort food (oden) and summertime favorites (yakitori), this cheery izakaya is worth a visit no matter what time of year you go. 2F New Life Ebisu, 1-7-8 Ebisu Minami, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3713-8877. Open daily 5pm-midnight (L.O. 11pm). Nearest stn: Ebisu, west exit. ¥
Horoyoi
Izakaya as an artform: minimal décor, reliable, simply seasoned food and prompt service. Ingredients on the 100 item-strong menu are provided daily by the owner’s wholesale produce company. B1 Yama Bldg, 1-9-2 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3770-6405. Open Mon-Fri 5:30pm-2am (L.O. 1am), Sat & hols 5:30pm-midnight (L.O. 11:30pm). Nearest stn: Ebisu.
Saiki
Expect to pay more than usual for the mandatory appetizers, but consider it a small price for the chance to enjoy one of Tokyo’s oldest and most prominent izakaya. 1-7-12 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3461-3367. Open Mon-Fri 5pm-midnight (L.O. 10:30pm), closed Sat-Sun & hols. Nearest stn: Ebisu.
•Grill
Bamboo Grassy
Fine Japanese cuisine from tofu and sashimi to teppanyaki and okonomiyaki (savory "pancakes") in an elegant setting. Try the omakase courses to sample the chef’s selection. B1 Pia House Ebisu Bldg, 3-9-29 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5739-0527. Open daily 5pm-1am (L.O. midnight). Nearest stn: Ebisu (east exit). www.bamboograssy.com ¥¥
•Tonkatsu
Kimukatsu
The breaded, deep-fried pork cutlet dish known as tonkatsu is a staple Japanese comfort food. Kimukatsu updates this classic by thinly slicing the pork and serving it “mille-feuille” style. The restaurant has branches in many popular neighborhoods throughout the city, including this one in Ebisu. 4-9-5 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5420-2929. Open Sun-Thu 11:30am-11pm (L.O. 10pm), Fri-Sat & days before hols 11:30am-11:30pm (L.O. 11pm). Nearest stn: Ebisu. www.kimukatsu.com¥
•Traditional
Shinobu Tei Hotaru
Named for the flickering firefly, or hotaru, this Ebisu eatery strives to serve authentic Japanese cuisine at reasonable prices in a funky, nature-inspired setting. B1 Fukutaka Bldg, 1-14-10 Ebisu Minami, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5768-6678. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am, Sun & hols 5-11pm. Nearest stn: Ebisu. ¥¥
others •American
Cabana
Former Spago chef Kenichiro Inada brings a taste of California to Ebisu. Expect hip fusion dishes and a wide range of California wines. 1F ATY Bldg, 3-28-12 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5421-2228. Open Tues-Sun 11:30am-4pm (L.O. 3:30pm) and 5:30pm-1am (L.O. 11:30pm), brunch 10am-4pm (Sat, Sun, hols). Nearest stn: Ebisu. ¥¥
Cardenas Charcoal Grill
One of the finest restaurants in Ebisu, also notable for being one of the first major eateries to have a blanket no-smoking policy in the dining room. (Smoking is allowed at the bar). 1-12-14 Ebisu Nishi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5428-0779. Open daily 6pm-2am; Holidays 6-11pm. Nearest stn: Ebisu (JR west exit). ¥¥¥
Homework's
Gourmet sandwiches like you get back home, hamburger patties made from 100 percent beef, organic vegetables and original-recipe bread. 1F Shichiseisha Bldg, 5-1-20 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3444-4560. Open Mon-Sat 11am-9pm, Sun 11am-6pm. Nearest stn: Hiroo. ¥
MLB Cafe
Japanese baseball fans have a new Mecca. Spread over three floors, the world’s first official MLB Café offers a casual restaurant-bar on the ground level, a slick restaurant upstairs with 800-inch wraparound screens, and a third-floor VIP/event space with chandeliers and heavy linens. Local chef Masashi Nagasaka has devised a menu featuring regional cuisine from the cities of all 30 MLB teams. 4-19-9 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Opening hours vary. Tel: 03-3448-8900. Nearest stn: Ebisu. www.mlbcafe.jp
•French
RÉVÉRENCE
At Révérence the whole dining room is a canvas primed for the artistry focused on the plate, no distractions allowed. Chef Hiroshi Hori likes to play with color, texture and nuance, introducing subtle surprises with each dish to create a wonderful French meal. 4-12-4 Minami-Azabu, Minato-ku. Open Wed-Mon noon-1:30pm and 6:30-8:30pm, closed Tue. Tel: 03-5475-3290. Nearest stn: Hiroo. www.rest-reverence.jp ¥¥¥~¥¥¥¥
•fusion
Aotea Rangi
Mussels, seafood and New Zealand wine (more than 100 varieties) are among the specialties at this tiny restaurant. The manager will make wine recommendations. 1-21-18 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3447-1496. Open Wed-Mon 6pm-midnight. Menu in Japanese and English. Nearest stn: Ebisu. ¥¥
Aoyuzu
This glitzy eatery next to Ebisu station offers Asian and European fusion dishes and DJs spinning house, jazz and samba. B1 Daikoku Bldg, 1-8-14 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3449-5075. Open Mon-Thu 6pm-2am, Fri-Sat 6pm-5am, Sun & hols 5-11:30pm. Nearest stn: Ebisu. ¥¥
•Italian
DA GINO
Humble wine and espresso bar Da Gino slays the competition with an espresso that’s good enough to induce giddy little shivers of pleasure. The wine list, exclusively Italian, is well chosen and reasonable priced, while the food can only be faulted on the volume. 1-2-3 Ebisu-Minami, Shibuya-ku. Open Mon-Fri 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun 3pm-2am. Tel: 03-5723-8877. Nearest stn: Ebisu (west exit). www.ginogino.jp ¥¥
Guido per Eataly
This Daikanyama outpost of Eataly, a Turin-based collective of artisanal producers, puts an unpretentious spin on fine dining. If the prices make you balk, you can always grab a casual bite at I Ristorantini downstairs. 2F 20-23 Daikanyama-cho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5784-2739. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm (L.O.), Tue-Sat 6:30-9:30pm, closed Mon & Sun eve. Nearest stn: Daikanyama. www.eataly.co.jp ¥¥¥
Il Boccalone
Famous for superb Italian cuisine and great Parmesano risotto scraped from a giant wheel, this place is always packed. Silk Ebisu Bldg, 1-15-9 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3449-1430. Open Mon-Sat 5:30-11pm (L.O.). Sun 5:30pm-10pm. Nearest stn: Ebisu. ¥¥¥
•mexican
Junkadelic
Fun Mexican restaurant in Naka-Meguro owned by a Japanese traveler who, returning from Central America, missed the food so much he decided to open a restaurant of his own. 4-10-4 Kami-Meguro, Meguro-ku. Tel: 03-5725-5020. Open daily 6pm-2am. Nearest stn: Nakameguro. ¥
•Spanish
Bar de Ollaría
The house specialty of this diminutive eatery is olla, a substantial Galician-style rice casserole. Tip: the weekday ¥900 lunch sets are one of the best deals in town. At night, expect tapas and heartier Spanish staples that are as mouth-watering as they are totally unpretentious. 1-22-33 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-3pm and 6pm-midnight, Sat 3pm-midnight, Sun 2pm-midnight. Tel: 03-5420-0936. Nearest stn: Ebisu.
•bars
Buri
This standing bar has a good range of cup sake, izakaya-style food and some of the friendliest service in town. Hunt for the toilet hidden among the sake cups. 1-14-1 Ebisu Nishi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3496-7744. Open daily 5pm-3am. Nearest stn: Ebisu.
Ebisu 18-Ban
A Spanish take on the tachinomiya standing bar genre. There are only 18 seats, and count yourself lucky if you get one—everyone else has to stand. On offer are tapas dishes and reasonably priced wines and sherries. 2-3-13 Ebisu Minami, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3794-1894. Mon-Fri 6pm-5am; Sat, Sun & hols 5pm-5am. Nearest stn: Ebisu. www.18-ban.com
Kissa Ginza
A café by day, Kissa Ginza comes into its own at night, when DJs spin funk and retro classics on weekends. The interior hasn’t changed since the ‘60s, and some customers dress accordingly. 1-3-9 Ebisu Minami, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3710-7320. Open Mon-Sat 11am-Midnight, closed Sun & hols. Nearest stn: Ebisu.
Rigoletto Short Hills
Described (misleadingly) as a “Moroccan Tapas” bar, Rigoletto Short Hills may have an iffy grasp of geography, but its affordable Continental cuisine and drinks make it a good option for casual dinner dates with friends. 1-2-13 Nakameguro, Meguro-ku. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-4am, Sun 11:30am-11pm. Tel: 03-5773-1241. Nearest stn: Nakameguro. www.rigoletto.jp
Zetton
Just a few minutes’ walk from the station, Zetton has private rooms, a loft and a cool deck, outfitted with white couches, with trend locals lounging on them. 1F SPC Japan Bldg, 1-1-33 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5774-1916. Open daily 11:30am-3am. Nearest stn: Ebisu, east exit. www.zetton.co.jp
•clubS
Air
Air hosts a range of house and techno events with visiting international DJs. The upstairs restaurant, Frames, is good for midnight munchies, or lunch if you’re passing during the day. 2-11 Sarugakucho, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5784-3386. Times vary. Nearest stn: Shibuya or Daikanyama. www.air-tokyo.com
Apollo
Get ready for a girls’ night out with a fantastic transgender floor show by Apollo’s resident onabe, a.k.a. a bevy of handsome girls-turned-guys. Then stick around as they chat at your table, host-club style (some English OK). Seatings are available from 7-9pm (¥7,000) and 9-11pm (¥9,500); the price includes the show charge, food and all-you-can-drink beer, shochu, whiskey and soft drinks. B1 1-4-4 Ebisu-Nishi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3461-6808. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am, closed Mon & every 2nd Sun. Nearest stn: Ebisu. www.show-apollo.com |
Unit
A cavernous club with some big-name artists. The lowest level, Saloon, sometimes hosts small club events midweek. B1-3 Za House Bldg, 1-34-17 Ebisu Nishi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3464-1012. Times vary. Nearest stn: Daikanyama or Naka-Meguro. www.unit-tokyo.com
•pub
What the Dickens
British food, live music, and other types of entertainment are had in this two-story pub. 4F Roob 6 Bldg, 1-13-3 Ebisu Nishi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-3780-2099. Open Tue-Sat 5pm-1am, Sun 3pm-1am. Nearest stn: Ebisu.
•sports bar
The Footnik
A regular hangout for the city’s soccer fans, this British pub offers a great selection
of draft beer and food, an outdoor terrace and regular sports broadcasts on its big screens. Also check out the fab new branch just steps from Osaki station in the glittering Think Park complex. Ebisu branch: 1-11-2 Ebisu, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5795-0144. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-1am, Sat, Sun & hols 3pm-1am. Nearest stn: Ebisu, east exit. Osaki branch: 1F Think Park, 2-1-1 Osaki, Shinagawa-ku. Tel: 03-5759-1044. Open daily 11am-1am. www.footnik.net
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★yebisu garden place Shops, restaurants, museums and more—this complex has it all|★tokyo metropolitan museum of photography Changing displays by the best Japanese and international lensfolk|★yebisu beer museum Study the beer-making process before sitting down to a few samples|★tokyo metropolitan central library The city’s main public library sits inside a leafy park|★AtrE shinagawa A New York-themed dining complex makes Shinagawa station feel like Grand Central|★hillside terrace Fumihiko Maki’s mix of residential, commercial and public spaces was designed to adapt to the land
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Shopping 
Dining
Nightlife