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Shinjuku is the busy hub at the center of the city,
with over 2 million people passing through its main train station every
day. Life in Shinjuku encompasses everything from the formal tranquillity of Shinjuku-Gyoen park and high-rise government buildings to traditional
theaters, the sleazy entertainment area of Kabukicho and the gay district
of Nichome. Shinjuku is also a shopper’s paradise and is home to Japan’s largest department store, Takashimaya Times Square. Architecture ranges from the skyscraper offices of west Shinjuku to run-down yakitori shacks and a plethora of small bars in the area known as Golden Gai. Shinjuku never sleeps, as the streets remain filled with people, hustlers and neon till dawn.
•bargains
Don Quijote
Don Quijote (aka “Donki”) has the lowest prices imaginable, any time of day or night. The hard part is keeping your cool inside the cramped store overflowing with cheap goods and bargain hunters. 1-16-5 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-5291-9211. Open 24 hours.
•books
Kinokuniya
One of Japan’s top booksellers since 1964, the Takashimaya Kinokuniya stocks over 200,000 English and foreign books on the sixth floor. Takashimaya Times Square Annex Bldg, 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5361-3301. Open Sun-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat 10am-8:30pm.
•department stores
Isetan
The I-club offers non-Japanese members a 5 percent discount on purchases, as well as language assistance. The Foreign Service desk can help with specific requests. Don’t miss the basement food court. 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3352-1111. Open daily 10am-8pm.
Takashimaya & Tokyu Hands
A towering store devoted to all things domestic, Takashimaya stocks souvenirs, shoes, fashion and everything in between. Also houses lifestyle superstore Tokyu Hands. 5-24-2 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5361-1111. Open Sun-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat 10am-8:30pm.
•electronics
BIC Camera
One stop shop for all things electronic. Shinjuku West store, HALC, 1-5-1 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel 03-5326-1111. Shinjuku East store, 3-17-8 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel 03-3225-1111.
Yodobashi Camera
Electronics and photography equipment galore make this a favorite with enthusiasts and professionals alike. Despite the name, Yodobashi also sells a lot more, including home electronics and computer equipment. 1-11-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3346-1010. Open daily 9:30am-10pm.
•fashion
Beams
Select shop with men’s fashion downstairs, women’s upstairs, and an endlessly browseable trinket selection at ground level. 3-32-6 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Open daily 11am-8pm. Tel: 03-5368-7300. www.beams.co.jp
BEST The Watch Dealer
Pick up a timepiece in this six-floor emporium in the middle of Shinjuku, near the famed Isetan Department Store. To make shopping easier, the watches are sorted by price, with used pieces in the basement. 3-17-12 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-5360-6800. Open daily 11am-8pm. Nearest stn: Shinjuku, east exit.www.ishida-watch.com
Ecol
Licensed by the Japanese economy and health ministries, Ecol makes orthopedic shoes that are specially designed to improve posture and support the pelvis. The shoes, made from high-quality leather with natural dyes, can help relieve pain in the knees, hips, lower back and toes. Available in sizes 21-30cm (US 4-12). Mejiro Store: 3-18-8 Shimochiai, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-5996-0488. Open daily 10am-6pm. Nearest stn: Mejiro. http://e-ecol.jp
Journal Standard
Stylish clothing and accessories for men and women and a rooftop café that serves excellent hamburgers. 4-1-7 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-5367-0175. Open Mon-Fri 11am-8:30pm; Sat-Sun 11am-8pm .
•music
Disk Union
Tokyo’s foremost independent record chain has specialist branches scattered throughout Shinjuku, but this is the largest. 3-31-4 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3352-2691. Open Mon-Sat 11am-9pm, Sun 11am-8pm.
Tower Records
Smaller than the Shibuya monolith, this Shinjuku branch still stocks a wide range of music, DVDs, books and magazines. 7-10F Flags Bldg, 3-37-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-5360-7811. Open daily 11am-11pm. www.towerrecords.co.jp
japanese •izakaya
Kamayaki Toriya Honpo
Styled like a mid-century Japanese pub, even the food on offer here is reminiscent of older days. This little wooden-clad restaurant also has an impressive selection of sake, beer, shochu and fruit liqueurs. 5F, 1-19-13 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3342-2401. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm and 5:30-11:30pm (until midnight Fri), Sat-Sun & hols 5:30-11:30pm. Nearest stn: Shinjuku, south exit. ¥
Taruichi
Dark, woody and lively, this classic izakaya in the heart of Kabukicho has a traditional Japanese feel and is constantly ranked as one of the best in Tokyo. 5F Dai-ichi Asagawa Bldg, 1-17-12 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3208-9772. Open Mon-Sat 5-11pm (L.O. 10pm). www.taruichi.co.jp ¥
•Kushiage
Tatsukichi
At this restaurant, all you need to do is sit at the counter and the chef will serve you skewer after skewer of lightly deep-fried meat and veggie combinations. When you’ve had enough, merely say the word and your skewers will be tallied up to determine your bill—¥170 each. 4F, 3-34-16 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3341-9322. Open Mon-Fri 5-11pm, Sat 4-11pm, Sun & hols 4-10:30pm. Nearest stn: Shinjuku (central exit). www.shinjuku-tatsukichi.com ¥
•Tempura
Tsunahachi
The main branch of one of the most successful tempura empires offers reasonable
and filling set meals without compromising standards. Combinations with sashimi, seafood and more are popular here. 3-31-8 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3352-1012. Open daily 11am-10:30pm (L.O. 10pm). ¥¥
•Teppanyaki
Yasaiya
Teppanyaki
The name Yasaiya literally means “restaurant specializing in vegetables,” and this place cooks healthy food making full use of the veggies’ natural flavors. Enjoy seasonal specialties raw or fried on a teppan hot plate, along with meat and fish, and a variety of drinks. B1 Kensei Bldg, 1-15-13 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-5292-1130. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-5am. Nearest stn: Shinjuku (JR east exit). Credit cards accepted. www.vegedinning.com ¥¥
asian •chinese
Kowloon
This tiny Chinese restaurant oozes character, with tables spilling out onto the alleyway it occupies in the backstreets of Shinjuku. The tantan-men noodles are recommended. 3-10-7 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3225-9262. Open daily 11:30am-11pm. ¥
ROUBEN GYOZEN
KAN Rouben specializes in a regional cuisine called Yangzhou, characterized by light, elegant cooking that preserves the natural qualities, appearance and color of the ingredients, and allows the original tastes to shine through. Besides gyoza to die for, this place serves some of the best Chinese food in Tokyo at fantastic prices. 3F, 1-18-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Open 11:30am-11:30pm. Tel: 03-3348-5810. http://r.gnavi.co.jp/rouben1/ ¥¥
•indian
Taz Mahal
With friendly bilingual service, all-you-can-eat lunch deals for under ¥1,000, and lots of vegetarian dishes made to order, Taz Mahal offers a taste of traditional Indian food just one minute from Shinjuku station. A stylishly casual interior and some of the best paneer items and samosa in town make this restaurant a sure bet for a quick bite or a full meal. Try the ¥500 lunch boxes. Mirutosu Bldg, 1-4-19 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3343-1718. Open daily 11am-11pm (lunch until 4pm). Nearest stn: Shinjuku-Nishiguchi (Oedo line). ¥
•Thai
Mango Tree CafE
This branch of the upscale Thai eatery on the 35th floor of the Marunouchi Building has come down to earth in Shinjuku. It'll please anyone looking for the same great cuisine at more reasonable prices. 7F Lumine Shinjuku, 1-1-5 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-6380-2535. Open daily 11am-11pm (L.O. 10pm). Nearest stn: Shinjuku (south exit). www.restaurant-mrs.com ¥
OTHERS •American
BROOKLYN PARLOR
A New York-themed jazz café and grill, Brooklyn Parlor offers the atmosphere of a reconverted NYC loft apartment in the basement of a department store. Get NY specialties like lamb stew, Brooklyn burgers and apple pie, washed down with draft Brooklyn Lager. B1 Shinjuku Marui Annex, 3-1-26 Shinjuku. Open daily 11.30am-11.30pm. Tel: 03-6457-7763. Nearest stn: Shinjuku-Sanchome, exit C1. www.brooklynparlor.co.jp ¥
•Italian
Capricciosa
This casual trattoria-style Italian restaurant chain is renowned for its hearty portions and low prices. All dishes can be shared between parties of two or more. Tomatoes are imported from Italy daily to guarantee the freshest sauces. Washington Hotel Branch: B1 Shinjuku Washington Hotel, 3-2-9 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3343-3882. Open 11:30am-11pm (L.O. 10pm). Island Tower Branch: B1 Shinjuku Island Tower, 6-5-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3346-3746. Open 11:30am-10pm (L.O. 9pm). Higashi-Guchi Branch: B1 Musashino-kan Bldg, 3-27-10 Shinjuku-ku (in the basement of Zara). Tel: 03-3341-6066. Open noon-11pm (L.O. 10:30pm). www.capricciosa.com ¥ |
•Novelty
Ehon no Kuni no Alice
This gothic Alice in Wonderland-styled restaurant offers a true fantasyland experience. With a bevy of waitresses dressed like Alice herself, and appetizers served on golden toothpicks labeled “Eat me!” customers feel like they’re dining in the pages of a storybook. 1-6-2 Kabukicho, Shinjuku. Tel: 03-3207-9055. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-midnight, Fri-Sat 5pm-4am, Sun & hols 5-11:30pm. Nearest stn: Shinjuku, east exit. www.diamond-dining.com/alice ¥
•BARs
Bonaparte
Gourmet dishes made with imported French spices are complemented by a selection of over 100 wines from France, Italy, California, Argentina and more. Echika Ikebukuro, 3-28-14 Nishi-Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku. Tel: 03-5985-5090. Open for lunch daily 11:30am-2:30pm; cafe 2:30-5:30pm; dinner & bar 5:30-11pm. Nearest stn: Ikebukuro. www.zato.co.jp
Frigo
Hundreds of beers, mostly from Belgium. A cozy interior and Euro-style fixtures add to the relaxed atmosphere. B1 Shinjuku Shimatsu Bldg, 2-11-20 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku. Tel: 03-5371-0666. Open Mon-Sat 5:30pm-2am, Sun 3-11pm, closed every 2nd Sun.
•Cabaret
Alcazar
Alcazar is an extravagant revue featuring a lineup of talented transsexual actors. Three daily shows will make you laugh out loud. Take a date or have a girl’s night out—80 percent of the crowd are women. Located near the Shinjuku Ward Office. 2F Toyo Bldg, 1-2-5 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3209-3350. Three shows daily at 6:20pm (open 5:30pm), 8pm (7:30pm), 9:40pm (9:10pm). Nearest stn: Shinjuku. www.alcazar.ne.jp
•JAZZ CLUB
Pit Inn
This long-running Shinjuku institution specializes in free jazz and improvisation. B1, 2-12-4 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3354-2024. www.pit-inn.com
•pub
The Dubliners’
Enjoy an authentic Irish experience five minutes from Shinjuku station’s east exit. The food is based on traditional recipes and there is a wide selection of Irish beers and whiskeys, as well as cocktails and soft drinks. Happy hour is every weekday 3-7pm, and the pub also features new lunch and tea-time menus. Other branches throughout the city. 2F Shinjuku Lion Kaikan, 3-28-9 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku. Tel: 03-3352-6606. Open Mon-Sat noon-1am, Sun & hols noon-11pm. www.dubliners.jp
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★Shinjuku-Gyoen park Built in 1906, this idyllic oasis has teahouses, lakes and gardens with beautiful cityscapes in the background|
★Tokyo Metropolitan City Government offices Head for the observation deck on the 45th floor of the main building|★KabukichO After dark
this red-light district is buzzing
with pachinko and personality, and it served as the inspiration for Blade Runner|★Shinjuku Station This is truly the world’s busiest train station; a pass through at rush hour proves it|★Studio Alta TV screen A favorite Shinjuku meeting place|★Golden Gai Sip a scotch with the intelligentsia in these tiny drinking dens|
★Takashimaya Times Square Home to Tokyu Hands, the towering Takashimaya department store and Kinokuniya bookstore|
★Okubo Have your kimchi here, the Korean equivalent of Yokohama’s Chinatown
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A beginner’s guide to the venerable Shinjuku drinking district
If you get it right, Golden Gai can be unlike any other experience in Tokyo. It’s a place where, just for a brief moment, even newbie foreigners can feel truly local. Get it wrong, though, and you’ll leave feeling more “gaijin” than ever.
The area’s origins can be traced back to the seedy postwar period, when it was a place of black markets, yakuza and the sex trade. Nowadays, it’s a much cleaner affair—so much so, in fact, that it’s hard to imagine that the sleaze of Kabukicho is just around the corner.
Golden Gai can be a little intimidating to first-time visitors, what with nearly 180 bars to choose from. We’d suggest getting there early, which will allow you to find a bar that suits your interests—and budget. Even the kindliest old crone is more than capable of bleeding your wallet dry, so watch out.
The area is enjoying something of a boom at the moment, with new bars opening up nearly every month. Foreigner-friendly bars are also becoming more common, run by bilingual owners who are keen to keep their language skills up. Discounts are offered for non-Japanese customers, including free entry or cheaper drinks. Here are a few of our favorites.
1. Cremaster One of the more bizarre haunts in Golden Gai, this bar-slash-art-gallery-slash-poser’s-lounge bears more than a passing resemblance to something out of 2001: A Space Odyssey. We didn’t have any trouble getting in, but just make sure you look as trendy as possible. Local artists can take advantage of the exhibition space upstairs. There’s a ¥1,000 cover charge, and beers are ¥500. http://cremaster.piichi.com
2. Albatross G Owned by an ultra-hip young Japanese guy, Albatross G takes advantage of the area’s sordid past to create a two-floor bar, where a small ladder leads up to what was once the bedroom of a brothel. With one tiny table, plenty of candles and a dark, dingy interior, this is definitely one of the seedier “Gai” establishments. The cover charge seems to vary according to how much the owner likes you, and most drinks come in at ¥600, though expect to pay more if you want to take advantage of the massive selection of spirits. www.alba-s.com
3. Ace’s Definitely one of the rowdier drinking dens to be found in Golden Gai. Bar owner Tsuyoshi opened this place six years ago after returning from a four-year stint in Colorado. It’s always crammed with trendy Japanese music types, most of whom are keen to practice a bit of English. Expect plenty of Pink Floyd and Led Zep, as well as free entry. Beers are the usual ¥500 a pop, with spirits coming in at ¥700.
4. Hair of the Dogs This one is hard to miss, with a pink exterior and a massive Sex Pistols poster plastered on the door. Loud, mad and boasting one of the best selections of all-time classic punk records—with customers free to take their pick. Brits, be warned: the barmaids will expect you to know every record inside-out. It’s ¥800 to get in, with beers rolling in at ¥600. www.hod118.com
Click map to enlarge.
TEXT: Hunter Skipworth, Photo: JAMES COULSON al Science Museum in Ueno. |
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