Yokohama could barely be called a town 150 years
ago, but after being established as an international port it quickly grew into a small city divided into two halves—one for the Japanese, the other for international residents. In the middle of the international side, some Chinese immigrants established a few shops and restaurants in the late 1800s, the area that is Chinatown (Chukagai) today. Now Japan’s largest port, the Minato Mirai waterfront area has recently emerged as the newest jewel of the city, boasting an amusement park, Japan’s tallest building and at night some of the most gorgeous views in Japan. A rail spur called the Minato Mirai line runs from Shibuya to Yokohama in just under 30 minutes.
•shopping centers
Jackmall
Close to Shin-Takashima station, this shopping center features excellent discount clothing shops, electronics stores, and outlets of US-based retailers such as Toys R Us and Sports Authority. 4-4-5 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku, Yokohama-shi. Tel: 045-683-3010. Open daily 10am-9pm. Nearest stn: Shin-Takashima.
Queen’s East
Bridging the Queen’s Square and Landmark Plaza shopping centers, this five-story emporium houses shops selling everything from candy and cosmetics to fashion and accessories. 2-3-2 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku. Tel: 045-682-2100. Open daily 11am-8pm. Nearest stn: Minato Mirai.
Red Brick Warehouse
Resembling an Industrial Revolution-era factory, this shopping, dining and entertainment complex eschews the piped muzak and harsh lighting of the generic Japanese mall. 1-1-2 Shinko, Naka-ku. Tel: 045-227-2002. Open daily 11am-8pm. Nearest stn: Sakuragicho.
japanese
Daidaiya
Nouvelle sushi and tempura, grilled meat and fish with innovative sauces, and homemade udon noodles are just a few of the treats in store at this upscale Japanese chain also known for its theatrical lighting and some of the best avant-garde interiors in town. 4F Queen's Square At 2nd Bldg, 2-3-8 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku. Tel: 045-228-5035. Open daily 11am-3pm and 5-11pm. Nearest stn: Minato Mirai. ¥¥
•Ramen
Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum
An amusement-park-style temple to the Chinese-style noodle, this eclectic museum features outposts of the country’s most famous ramen restaurants. 2-14-21 Shin-Yokohama. Tel: 045-471-0503. Open Mon-Fri 11am-11pm; Sat, Sun & hols 10:30am-11pm. Nearest stn: Shin-Yokohama.¥
•Tonkatsu
Genkatsu
This not-so-traditional tonkatsu restaurant offers diners the choice of plain pork cutlets or those seasoned with ume, black pepper, garlic, leek or even cheese. Each large cutlet is sliced into 25 thin slices making the meat as tender and flavorful as possible. 3-124 Motomachi, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-212-1129. Open Mon-Fri 11am-9:30pm, Sat-Sun & hols 11am-10pm. Nearest stn: Motomachi-Chukagai. www.genkatsu.com ¥
•Traditional
Tenkichi
This quaint Japanese eatery serves traditional tempura cuisine and a range of kaiseki-style dishes, all at reasonable prices. 2-9 Minatocho, Naka-ku. Tel: 045-681-2220. Open Tue-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm and 5-9:30pm (L.O.), Sat 11:30am-9:30pm, Sun 11:30am-8:30pm (L.O.). Nearest stn: Kannai. ¥¥
•Yakitori
Toriyoshi
One in the large chain of yakitori bar/ restaurants, Toriyoshi is a casual spot in which to dig into piping-hot skewers of chicken, beef, vegetables and more as you wash it all down with a cold Japanese beer. B1 Arai Bldg, 1-8 Onoechou, Naka-ku. Tel: 045-224-8642. Open daily 5pm-midnight. Nearest stn: Kannai. ¥
Asian •Chinese
Kakyu
This sophisticated Chinese restaurant at the east exit of Yokohama station is a favorite with well-heeled locals, who come for the excellent dumplings and wide range of mostly Cantonese-inspired fare. 2F Kiyoken Honten Bldg, 2-13-12 Takashima, Yokohama. Tel: 045-441-3330. Open Mon-Fri 11:30am-10:30pm (L.O. 9pm, Fri 9:30pm), Sat, Sun & hols 11am-10pm. Nearest stn: Yokohama, east exit. ¥¥¥
Yokohama Dai Sekai
This eight-story “China Museum” aims to recreate the look and feel of Shanghai’s halcyon days of the ’20s and ’30s in a theme-park-like atmosphere. 97 Banchi, Yamashita-cho, Naka-ku. Tel: 045-681-5588. Open daily 10am-10pm through September, 10am-9pm from October. Nearest stn: Motomachi-Chukagai, exit 2. ¥¥
others
•american
Hard Rock CafÉ
The Yokohama branch of this globally famous chain serves the same burgers and rock as the rest of them. A1F Queen’s Tower. 2-3-1 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku. Tel: 045-682-5626. Open Sun-Thu 11am-11:30pm (L.O. 10:30pm), Fri 11am-midnight (L.O. 11pm), Sat 11am-2am. Nearest stn: Minato Mirai. ¥¥
Seafood and Grill Atlantic
This upscale eatery takes full advantage of its oceanfront location, offering a sea breeze and an enchanting view of Yokohama Bay five stories above the water. The restaurant is generous both in its portions and its flavors, as if emboldened by the grandness of the sea. 5F Yokohama Bay Quarter, 1-10 Kinkocho, Kanagawa-ku. Tel: 045-450-7368. Open daily 11am-11pm (L.O. 10pm). Nearest stn: Yokohama ¥¥~¥¥¥
Sirius
Towering above the city, Sirius is an elegant restaurant-bar that serves up one of Yokohama’s best brunch buffets. 70F Landmark Tower, 2-2-1-3 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku. Tel: 045-221-1155. Open daily 7-10am (breakfast), 11:30am-2:30pm (lunch), 5-9pm (dinner), 5pm-1am (cocktail time). Nearest stn: Yokohama. ¥¥
•International
Colline Arrondie
This upscale French eatery housed in the Port Hill Hotel offers exquisite à la carte and course cuisine along with garden views. 1F Port Hill Hotel, 115 Yamatecho, Naka-ku. Tel: 045-621-9684. Open 10am-3pm, 2-5pm (tea time), 5:30-9pm. Nearest stn: Motomachi-Chukagai. ¥¥¥
Bills
There’s no longer any need to head to Shonan to sample Australian chef Bill Granger’s famous breakfasts, thanks to the opening of his second Japan restaurant in Yokohama. Expect crowds and higher-than-average prices but, oh, the scrambled eggs! 1-1-2 Shinko, Naka-ku. Tel: 045-650-1266. Open daily 9am-11pm. Nearest stn: Sakuragicho. www.bills-jp.net ¥
•Italian
Uva Rara
Bustling casual restaurant conveniently located at Yokohama station offers top-tier service and authentic Italian made with the freshest ingredients—a winning combo. B2 Joinus, 1-5-1 Minami-Saiwai, Nishi-ku. Tel: 045-313-6086. Open daily 11am-11pm (L.O. 10pm). Nearest stn: Yokohama, west exit. ¥¥¥
•Scandinavian
Scandia
Yokohama’s famed Scandinavian eatery features a genuine smorgasbord and has been serving up tasty Danish dishes since the ’60s. 1-1 Kaigandori, Naka-ku. Tel: 045-201-2262. Open Mon-Sat 11am-midnight; Sun 5pm-midnight. Nearest stn: Nihon-Oodori. ¥¥
•Vegetarian
Harvest
This all-natural eatery offers the ever-elusive all-you-can-eat, healthy buffet. It includes more than forty dishes as well as organic coffee, 100 percent fruit juice, and whole-rice tea. 1-3-6 Aobadai, Aoba-ku. Tel: 045-988-5477. Open daily 11am-3pm, 5:30-10pm. Nearest stn: Aobadai. ¥
Fanatic Tattoo Yokohama
With more than 10,000 designs available, from traditional Japanese to New School, you’re sure to find what you want at Fanatic Tattoo—though they can also create something just for you. The shop’s resident tattoo artists work in a completely sanitary environment, using disposable needles and ink, and small tattoos start from just ¥10,000. 801 Stoke Bldg, 2-12-6 Minami-Saiwai, Nishi-ku. Tel: 045-290-6910. Open daily 10am-8pm. Nearest stn: Yokohama, south west exit. www.fanatic-tattoo.com |
Black Eyes Tattoo
With a variety of artists from different backgrounds, this popular and modern studio caters to customers in both traditional wabori and in modern American tattoo styles. Friendly, bilingual staff are on hand to create custom work that will last a lifetime. 3F, 1-5-5 Honcho, Yokosuka, Kanagawa. Tel: 045-827-2296. Open daily 1-9pm. Nearest stn: Yokosuka Chuo. |
•Bars
Chano-ma Yokohama
With a name that translates as “living room” or “tea room,” this bar on the third floor of Yokohama’s Akarenga (Redbrick Warehouse) has a dreamy atmosphere amid comfy mattresses and pillows. Japanese food, teas and alcohol. 3F Akarenga No. 2, 1-1-2 Shinko, Naka-ku, Yokohama. Tel: 045-650-8228. Open Mon-Thu 11am-11pm, Fri-Sun & hols 11am-5am. Nearest stn: Sakuragicho or Bashamichi. www.yokohama-akarenga.jp
•clubs
Logos
Yokohama is the ground zero of Japan’s hip-hop scene, and if you want a taste of the action—baggy pants and all—this is the place to go. There are regular events five nights a week, and touring international MCs and DJs occasionally stop by. B1, 4-168 Motomachi, Naka-ku. Tel: 045-662-1947. Open Tue-Sat 10pm-late. Nearest stn: Minato Mirai or Negishi. www.logosweb.co.jp
•Jazz
Barbarbar
Enjoy the selection of malt, Scotch, Irish and Japanese whiskies in the downstairs bar, or head up to the second-floor restaurant for decent European-style food and nightly live jazz performances (from 7:30pm). Note that a music charge applies. 1-25 Aioi-cho, Naka-ku. Tel: 045-662-0493. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-3am, closed Sun (bar); daily 6pm-midnight (restaurant). Nearest stn: Kannai or Nihon-Oodori. www.barbarbar.jp
Motion Blue
This venture by Blue Note Japan offers nouvelle cuisine and fine wines and cocktails, not to mention the the world's top live music maestros. Showtimes are 7 & 9:30pm on weeknights, 6:30 & 9pm on weekends and holidays. 3F Bldg 2 Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse, 1-1-2 Shinko, Naka-ku. Tel: 045-226-1919. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-11:30pm, Sun and hols 4pm-10:30pm. Nearest stn: Sakuragicho. www.motionblue.co.jp
•Pub
Full Monty
Skip the bland chain pubs and get a slice of the real thing at this British-run watering hole. Beers on tap include London Pride and Murphy’s, while the kitchen whips up stodgy pub staples including bangers & mash and vindaloo curry. 2F, 1-4-2 Tokiwacho, Naka-ku. Tel: 045-212-2974. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am, closed Sun. Nearest stn: Kannai. http://fullmontyyokohama.com
•Wine Bar
Tomei’s
California’s best vintages generally end up on the wine list at this convivial tasting room and bar. Bottles are purchased direct from the wineries themselves, keeping prices on the right side of affordable, and neophytes are always welcome. 4-161 Motomachi, Naka-ku. Tel: 045-212-5446. Open Fri-Sun 1pm-midnight, closed Mon-Thu. Nearest stn: Ishiwakacho. www.tomeis.co.jp
Ebisuya Kaminarimon
Ebisu-ya offers personalized rides in a rickshaw through the world-renowned Asakusa district, famous for its temples and bordering on the meandering Sumida river. For ¥10,000, take a 30min ride, pose in a happi coat for a photo, and even draw the rickshaw by yourself for 15min. Another popular option is to ride in a rickshaw wearing a traditional kimono! 3F East Bldg, 1-20-4 Asakusa, Taito-ku. Meet the rickshaw runner in front of Kaminarimon. Tel: 03-5806-8881. Nearest stn: Asakusa. Email kaminari@ebisuya.com or see www.ebisuya.com/asakusa for more info.
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★Landmark Tower’s sky garden At 273m it’s the highest observatory in Japan. Catch the entire Kanto Plain and surrounding mountains, including Mt. Fuji|★Yamate Park Overlooks the Yokohama Bay Bridge|
★Chinatown Japan’s largest concentration of restaurants and shops from The Middle Kingdom|★The Ramen Museum Learn all about the history of this venerable noodle—and get samples!|★The Foreigners’ Cemetery A vast park of rolling hills and ★dramatic views|The Yokohama Museum
of Art One of the largest and best-equipped museums in the country
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sightseeing
The Chinese presence in Yokohama dates back to 1859, when the port was opened to foreign merchants. Ships arrived to trade with the Japanese from America, Europe and also China. Foreigners were allowed to live only in certain areas of the city, and the Chinese established themselves in what is today known as Chinatown. The inflow of Chinese was brisk because of a ferry service that operated between Yokohama, Shanghai and Hong Kong. However, the population dwindled in the 1920s, after the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 devastated the city, causing many Chinese to return to the mainland. The outbreak of war in 1937 decimated the community that remained, and the area remained a backwater until 1972, when Japan established diplomatic relations with China. The event caused a surge of interest in all things Chinese, and the emergence of Yokohama Chinatown as a major domestic tourist attraction. These days, access to Chinatown from Tokyo is made easy by the Minato Mirai line, a branch of the Tokyu Toyoko line that runs direct from Shibuya.
At times Tokyo’s urban sprawl seems never-ending, but it’s still relatively easy to escape the city for a day. Here are some suggestions:
Nikko
This mountain town’s splendid shrines are a monument to Ieyasu Tokugawa, the warlord who unified Japan in 1600. Higher in the mountains are Lake Chuzenjiand the Kegon waterfall. JR Pass holders should take the shinkansen from Tokyo to Utsunomiya, then a local train to Nikko. For others, the private Tobu Nikko line from Asakusa is more convenient. Both take approximately two hours.
Kamakura
Japan’s ancient capital, which retains some if its seaside charm, is dotted with temples and shrines. Be selective and set aside time to enjoy the town’s excellent Japanese restaurants. Take the JR Yokosuka line from Tokyo station to Kita-Kamakura (56 mins) or Kamakura (60 mins).
Hakone
Dotted with ryokan and onsen, and with occasional views of Mt. Fuji, Hakone is a popular daytrip from Tokyo, but be warned that during national holidays the area can become horribly crowded. Trains on the private Odakyu line run to Odawara (and some to Hakone-Yumoto) depart every 12 minutes. JR Pass holders can save money by taking a JR train from Tokyo station as far as Odawara.
Mt. Fuji
Climbing Japan’s iconic mountain isn’t difficult if you’re relatively fit and well prepared. Start in the evening, then make your final push at midnight to arrive at the summit before dawn. During climbing season (early July to late August) buses run direct from Shinjuku to the base station, Go-gome. |
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